Wondering how to clean this razor

I am now the proud owner of about 10 eBay/antique store razors and my wife said that I need to start cleaning what I have before she'll let me get more. Fair enough :)

I bought Lynn's DVD on razors and was looking at the section on cleaning older razors using a dremel tool and Maas. Home Depot had never heard of Maas and I really wanted to get a start this evening so I bought some Brasso. Is that even in the same class? I rubbed it into the blade, wiped off with a rag, rubbed more on and used the polishing pad that I got for the dremel and I really don't see that it did anything. I tried this on a couple of razors, one that was actually not too bad to start with but really saw that it was no cleaner after I finished.

Is the razor in the attached image in such condition that it's going to take more than a dremel polishing and Maas?

Thanks!

Remember that the Dremel, is the straight razor tool of death. you need to be very, very good with one before approaching the razor with it. I use Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish or Semichrome instead of MAAS, I have a hard time finding it.
I would work the blade with a progressing series of 3M wet/dry paper, depending on the depth of the engraving of course. I am a beginner when it comes to retoring razors, so the pros will chime in soon.

+1 on using care w/ a dremel. Most of the rotary equipment can easily send sharp objects near body parts you're fond of.

I'm totally new at doing SR clean ups so take my comments for what they're worth. I use a metal polish similar to Flitz and 0000 steal wool to hand clean a blade. I think I would try that first and see where you get to with the blade.

Bob

I would forget the dremel, very high chance it will destroy the blade for a minimal amount of metal removal and to get the pits out you will need to remove more metal than a hollow ground razor has to offer. Use a single edge disposable blade (hardware store) and scrape off the rust. I found MAAS in my local Ace Hardware but they don't always have it. Walmart has had it at times also but Semi Chrome will work as will Flits. Tooth picks and or tooth brushes with the metal cleaner/polish will help. Good luck.

+1 to a razor and fine grit metal sandpaper with allot of elbow grease. Start higher and see if that works before moving to a heavier grit. No need to sand out scratches from a 250grit if the 600 will get the rust off first :)

I'm sure you got this already from the above posts but, a razor although extremely sharp, is also very brittle when it comes to a dremel wheel slapping away at it trying to remove rust. Very high likelihood of chipping said razor. I know from experience :( (I'll miss you Joseph Rodgers blade that never had a chance).

My woman made those very same comments to me after razor 10 or so (must be their breaking point), after I spent 6 hours hand sanding my first blade back to life...that put the brakes on my eBay shopping :)

It is rewarding though!

Auto Zone for most of my needs, Mothers, Microwipes and wet/dry sandpaper.

Stores By Zip Code | AutoZone.com

I think the Dremel gets a bad rap sometimes. I use a magnet holder when using my Dremel that holds the blade dead flat against so there is no chance of catching the edge. Secondly, I place a damp cloth between the blade and the magnet to help absorb any heat build-up. With these two precautions, I’ve never had any problem using my Dremel to restore razors.

For this particular razor, I’d try a little emery compound if available. That’s usually the first step I use when approaching a restoration project.

I remember reading Glen (gssixgun) once made a comment on a restoration thread about starting with polishing the blade.
At first I thought that was a bit exaggerated but really its the best advice for anyone.
After polishing take a magnifying glass (x15 or x20 works well) and study it. You will see chips, cracks, pitting, patina, active rust, dormant rust etc in a whole new light.
At this point it will be clear what you need to start with and the best approach.
Many times I have looked at a razor and thought one thing, but only after I started working on it that I realize what the best approach is.
Hope this helps.

OK, so I'll try and hunt down some Maas, if not that then Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish. I'll remove as much as I can with a single edge razor then work with some 0000 steel wool. I'm not familiar with fine grit metal sandpaper, are you referring to just a wet/dry sandpaper? If so, what grit? I have NO experience with cleaning metal surfaces so I have no clue which grit to start with.

If you start with MAAS or similar polish you will remove surface dust, grease, rust etc and show what is below.
Then you can decide which grit to start with.

250 grit is the lowest I ever need to use, and I don´t use it that often.
2000 grit is very fine which I usually finish with, but there are finer ones available.

Make sure you work in a pyramid fashion ie if you don´t thoroughly remove ALL scratch marks from the previous grit with the current one you are using, the subsequent grits will not remove them either and you will not have a beautiful finish in the end.
The smaller the jumps between grits the easier it is to achieve this :tu:

I find that 1000 and 1200 grit sandpaper works best. Harbor Freight has the best prices on the paper. It does little damage to the blade while removing the rust.
For the premium wet dry at those numbers I find it at auto supply stores in their car paint sections. But it's costly.

Don't forget cape Cod Polishing Cloths. They can work wonders if you have patience. If you use a dremmel make sure you use eye protection. I can assure you if you hit the edge of a razor with one a razor edged piece of metal will travel at jet propelled speed with perfect accuracy towards your eyes.