My Recent Big Bummer

I honed my razor yesterday, took the take off the tape, cleaned and everything was just fine. I figured, since the hone usually sits in the open air, I should soak it for about 10 minutes in barbicide and I did, I took it out, cleaned it, stropped it and everything was still fine. I took a shave with it right after stropping it and when it came time to clean it I found out that spots all over the blade on both sides appeared and I couldn't clean them off. First, I thought it was tape smudges but I'm sur they are not because I tried to clean it with alcohol and they didn't come off.



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I was told that the barbicide caused these to appear this quickly, I would like to know if that is true. The other thing I would like to know is the following. How do I clean these spots? I was told that autosol and whatnot is the way to go and I ordered one of those which should get here in the mail in the following couple of days. The second thing I was told is that the autosol will wash off the gold wash on the blade, if that is true I would like to know what would be the way to go to clean the blade and keep the gold wash and the markings on the blade. This is my only blade and I would like to take care of it, I wouldn't want to lose the original markings or try anything to put those in harm. I was thinking of taping the gold wash and cleaning the blade, would that affect the gold wash ? Would the cleaning product get under the tape and take off the gold wash ?

I would like to be able to clean inside the logo in between the gold washs as well if it is possible, I forgot to mention that above.

I would like to know my options and how to proceed from this point forward. Thank you everyone in advance for the help you are offering me.

cover up the gold with tape..take some 400 grit sandpaper..wet it a bit..should be fine

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Originally Posted by smalltank

cover up the gold with tape..take some 400 grit sandpaper..wet it a bit..should be fine

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I would be a bit more subtle than that when addressing this to be honest.
I would say to give the Autosol a chance before going that route, if at all.

The gold-wash is a challenge, it will come off in a heartbeat with the Autosol et al, so I would try to avoid getting any on that.

Hopefully someone have some tips for how to handle the Gold area.

Pls do not use 400 grit,do not know what autosol is,have never seen it in my country,But Maas, flitz may work

I would try using masking tape cut to size to cover the gold wash. Like Birnardo, I would try the metal polish first taking great care not to touch the gold wash. Try the mildest fix first before trying anything more abrasive like sandpaper. I have removed gold wash with just metal polish so be careful.

Bob

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Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Pls do not use 400 grit,do not know what autosol is,have never seen it in my country,But Maas, flitz may work

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Yup.
Autosol is a similar product easily found over here in Europe.
I have Flitz as well, and to me they are very much similar in how they work.

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Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Pls do not use 400 grit,do not know what autosol is,have never seen it in my country,But Maas, flitz may work

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I know, I wouldn't have done that in the first place not even as a last resort. And autosol is basically similar to Mass and flitz... And thank you...

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Originally Posted by BobH

I would try using masking tape cut to size to cover the gold wash. Like Birnardo, I would try the metal polish first taking great care not to touch the gold wash. Try the mildest fix first before trying anything more abrasive like sandpaper. I have removed gold wash with just metal polish so be careful.

Bob

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That was the plan but I wouldn't want to take risks with the gold wash, so it would be a good idea if someone already tried using tape over the gold and discovered if it worked or not. Thank you for the feedback.

Tape off the gold wash and with a q-tip use the maas or other such polish. On the non show side use a soft cloth and the polish. 400 Grit is a horrible idea and will trash your razor. It is a low grit I use when restoring razors.
Now to make sure this does not happen again.
Why on earth did you soak your hone in barbacide? Water only!!! Your razors should be wiped down with a sheet of Toilet paper folded up after honing. Then wipe down with TP with a small amount of oil and let sit open NOT LAYING DOWN until dry. Re wipe with oil and close up to store in a dry low humidity area.

Paul

We need a biological control forum on SRP
CHEEZ LOUEEZ,Soap and water is good chit, use it, forget all this barbicide crap unless your sharing your stuff with other people,If not than your good to go, if you have AIDS, or Hep C than think about it, you cannot regift yourself with the same microbs as YOU ALREADY HAVE THEM.
Your stones? fill a 5 gal bucket with water, add one capfull of bleach, any bleach, let um soak for 30 mins,let dry,your good to go,all you need to do with them is prevent Moss, algea, Mushrooms from growing on them,they are just rocks afterall,is all basic hygine folks.

Hard lessons learned.
Ask on the forum first before trying something new. Im sure somebody here has tried it before.
Let us know how it cleaned up.

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Originally Posted by Str8Shooter

Tape off the gold wash and with a q-tip use the maas or other such polish. On the non show side use a soft cloth and the polish. 400 Grit is a horrible idea and will trash your razor. It is a low grit I use when restoring razors.
Now to make sure this does not happen again.
Why on earth did you soak your hone in barbacide? Water only!!! Your razors should be wiped down with a sheet of Toilet paper folded up after honing. Then wipe down with TP with a small amount of oil and let sit open NOT LAYING DOWN until dry. Re wipe with oil and close up to store in a dry low humidity area.

Paul

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If I tape the gold wash and clean in between the letters and lines, would it affect the gold wash ?

Thank you for the tips.

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Originally Posted by pixelfixed

We need a biological control forum on SRP
CHEEZ LOUEEZ,Soap and water is good chit, use it, forget all this barbicide crap unless your sharing your stuff with other people,If not than your good to go, if you have AIDS, or Hep C than think about it, you cannot regift yourself with the same microbs as YOU ALREADY HAVE THEM.
Your stones? fill a 5 gal bucket with water, add one capfull of bleach, any bleach, let um soak for 30 mins,let dry,your good to go,all you need to do with them is prevent Moss, algea, Mushrooms from growing on them,they are just rocks afterall,is all basic hygine folks.

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Unfortunately, I do not have any of those (AIDS, Hep C and sons) =(
lol ^^ :D

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Originally Posted by Armageddon

If I tape the gold wash and clean in between the letters and lines, would it affect the gold wash ?

Thank you for the tips.

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You won't be able to get in between just cover it. what I do is focus on just one part at a time. say between the top of the GW and spine. cover just to the top of the wash and go nuts on the exposed area. Done. then move on to the bottom portion the same way. You wont be able to get in between the letters but I should not show up much. Take it as a lesson learned.

Paul

It might be easier if you use something like nail varnish to paint over the gold, then you can use a cloth to work the metal cleaner - just pay attention to any wear at the edges of the varnish. I use an industrial masking varnish that is remarkably similar to red nail varnish and has an acetone smell to it. Nail varnish comes off easily with acetone and it will not affect the gold. Make sure the areas to be masked are clean and degreased first - mineral spirit or iso-propyl alcohol or similar will do - before applying the nail varnish, or it might not stick too well. Let it dry hard before using the metal polish. If its hard to paint on in the intricate areas try thinning it with a little acetone and building up the coats.

Regards,
Neil

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Originally Posted by Neil Miller

It might be easier if you use something like nail varnish to paint over the gold, then you can use a cloth to work the metal cleaner - just pay attention to any wear at the edges of the varnish. I use an industrial masking varnish that is remarkably similar to red nail varnish and has an acetone smell to it. Nail varnish comes off easily with acetone and it will not affect the gold. Make sure the areas to be masked are clean and degreased first - mineral spirit or iso-propyl alcohol or similar will do - before applying the nail varnish, or it might not stick too well. Let it dry hard before using the metal polish. If its hard to paint on in the intricate areas try thinning it with a little acetone and building up the coats.

Regards,
Neil

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Thank you very much for this idea, I would've never thought of it actually to be honest. I will post what I did in a new thread and what I got so far. I will for sure give this one a try and I would give the blade the cleaning of the century ^^

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Originally Posted by Neil Miller

It might be easier if you use something like nail varnish to paint over the gold, then you can use a cloth to work the metal cleaner - just pay attention to any wear at the edges of the varnish. I use an industrial masking varnish that is remarkably similar to red nail varnish and has an acetone smell to it. Nail varnish comes off easily with acetone and it will not affect the gold. Make sure the areas to be masked are clean and degreased first - mineral spirit or iso-propyl alcohol or similar will do - before applying the nail varnish, or it might not stick too well. Let it dry hard before using the metal polish. If its hard to paint on in the intricate areas try thinning it with a little acetone and building up the coats.

Regards,
Neil

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Neil,

I believe that here in the States what you refer to as (nail varnish) is referred to as 'fingernail polish' available in all different colors to apply to finger and toe nails. I'm just trying to make sure as while we both speak English, different terms and cultures can mean very different things. Such as what you may call a 'spanner' we would call a 'wrench'.

Just trying to clarify!

Thanks! I always enjoy your posts!

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Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Your stones? fill a 5 gal bucket with water, add one capfull of bleach, any bleach, let um soak for 30 mins

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Unless you own stones where soaking or contact with chemicals is not recommended by the maker.
Nortons & Kings would be fine as they are old school tech but the modern ceramics may be damaged, Shapton pro in particular.

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Originally Posted by onimaru55

Unless you own stones where soaking or contact with chemicals is not recommended by the maker.
Nortons & Kings would be fine as they are old school tech but the modern ceramics may be damaged, Shapton pro in particular.

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True to a point,as you know shapton says not to even soak them.
I do not consider shapton pros to be stones.

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Originally Posted by pixelfixed

True to a point,as you know shapton says not to even soak them.
I do not consider shapton pros to be stones.

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Someone else might. That's why I posted the warning.