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Well after spending time with 80 grit on 6 razors and there is still pitting on the blades and I guess I'm going I live with it cause I'm afraid of taking to much metal off and my hat is off to all the guys who restore and who can make a blade gorgeous. It really takes a lot of time to get them that way for sure. I'll up load pics later
Yeah I'm not really too partial to greaseless compound unless I'm dealing with a non-pitted surface to begin with. I'm impressed with it's ability to make things shiny, but not it's ability to make things less pitted. I read somewhere that greaseless isn't a good option for pitting because the compound will get into the pits, and remove metal there as well. Meaning the pits stay. Hence, a belt grinder became required. lol.
Keep using 80 grit untill the pits are gone and you will end up with a pce of junk.
Why people try to restore rusted out blades is beyond me.
In order to bring a piece of junk back to its precision tool beginning. For initial cleanup, I have always been partial to flap wheels in 120 grit. They can resurface the blade in no time and then you have the progression of grits until you get into the RBD territory.Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
And you will also destroy in the process all the sharp edges with flap wheels.
These razors were pricision ground with surface grinders (the flats)
Is best done by hand IMO.
Put a brand new hip joint in an 80 year old, and you end up with an 80 year old body with a good hip. If it was me, I'd switch out the body and keep the bum hip, but hey... :pQuote:
Keep using 80 grit untill the pits are gone and you will end up with a pce of junk.
Why people try to restore rusted out blades is beyond me.
My real response to your wonder is just to say because we can...or to each his own....or for the love of the game...choose your overused quote of the day! :) And because although it's not BEAUTIFUL...this is not a piece of junk. :p Notice plenty of stubborn pitting remains...doh! Ok maybe it's junk...But it's MY junk darnet!
Ur right joe I'll just keep the outing which is fine with me
The main thing is to pick your projects well. Most of the time on here, you only see the pictures with the good results. Many times with restorations you end up with a nice shiny razor with uneven flattening of the spine and a wavy edge and pitting. So long as you can get an edge on it that will shave and if that is what you're after, cool beans. Don't count on greaseless to remove heavy damage from hollow ground blades or excessive damage throughout a blade on others. It can work well though so long as you take your time with it and follow up with hand sanding and a ton of buffing. You really have to put the amount of work that you are willing to put into a razor against the best results with each one.
Have fun.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynn
Bingo !!
Those of us that restore professionally can read a blade in an instant, and know exactly how far we can take things, for every beauty that you see pics of,,, there are at least 3 more that were just cleaned and honed are a just shavers...
Good words Lynn and Glen. Some are pristine, Some are good shavers,Some are too far gone. As in anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Great stuff Glen,you know your stuff for sure without question.I think some people get a little over the top between the fine line of preservation and restoration, two differant animals,two entirely differant meanings.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
The only sharp edge that you remove with the flap wheels is the shaving edge, but if your razor needs some serious resto, that's fine as you would have had to hone it to begin with. Other than that, flap wheels are great at evenly resurfacing the blade (as long as the pitting isn't too deep for anything but a regrind) without reshaping it. That's what we are looking for in the first place. I have had great results with them in the past and will in the future. Just a warning to you newbs: The best you'll get out of a flap wheel is a slightly rough satin finish, that you will still need to polish with RBD's or use the Jay Lee sanding drum method to get anywhere close to mirror.Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
In the hands of an expert a flap wheel may have some use.
Am no expert so My prefferance is to do what few razors I work on all by hand over alot of time.
As far as sharp edges you have the edges of the tang, the Jimps.the nose of the blade,You see so many restos that have been ruined by power tools.
They have there place for sure but like the dremels,one can do alot of damage in a very short time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
The jimps only with a wire brush. I haven't noticed any appreciable rounding of the tang edges from using flapwheels, whether it was on my initial restorations or later work.Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
Here's how it's done, with one note: This particular razor never had filed jimps, so it was ok to use the flapwheel there and this was just one of 3 passes (I believe it was 240 - I'd do 120 - 240 - 400 before moving onto different methods). Not my youtube page but the member in question was nice enough to post the video for me. Please note that you always wanna rotate it away from the edge or you can end up losing an eye or more importantly, damaging the workpiece.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLUDR2IrVLM
LOL!! Yes, we must keep our priorities in order!Quote:
or you can end up losing an eye or more importantly, damaging the workpiece.