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A while ago I posted a thread on how to make sanding drums for the 1/2" rotary tool sanding mandrel. I have since refined my method of creating them to produce more at once and constructing them to be less prone to catching and edge or fraying. The instructions to do so were given in a very abridged form at the end of the thread, but, I figured I'd write another tutorial for those who want to know :)
Anyway here is the tutorial. Enjoy :D
Good stuff. Thanks.
Many thanks for sharing this!:)
Great info Jason. I will give the home made sleves a try. I can see that they will be much cheaper and I will get a wider assortment of grits and abrasives.
BTW, your sleeves look factory made. I think that it will take me a while before mine come out that good and that easy. Your results are very encouraging.
Thanks Jason. I'll probably follow your lead on the tape as I didn't have much adhesion with Scotch.
This is an excellent presentation and the information is very useful for the do-it-yourselfer who does not have all the fancy equipment. Very good job.
Thank guys. I hope you find them as handy as I do :)
Ilija,
For me there is usually some inevitable fraying - with whatever tape I use - but it's usually so minor that is doesn't cause any problems. When you put the sleeve on the mandrel, you also want to be careful not to overtighten it, as this will expand the sleeve to much and cause it too lose adhesion or possibly tear.
I know I said it in the tutorial, and I'll say it again, avoid touching that tape. Fresh tape has quite good adhesion, but oily fingers can greatly reduce said ability.
Also, you'll notice in the last picture that I have the drum on the mandrel such that it protrudes past the top by about 1/8". When I'm working on blades, this part that sticks past is the part I use to do the work. It's pliable enough that I don't have to worry about accidentally putting too much pressure down and causing it to really dig into the metal, as is the case had I pressed the actual mandrel into the surface. Most of this is mentioned at the end of the first tutorial, but I see no harm in reiterating :)
Hi Jason,
That was a beautiful presentation. It was very very informative. Thanks for the information I will use it.
I was at Lee Valley yesterday and came across some sandpaper rolls. They aren't as much sandpaper as sandcloth. They looked to be some sort of canvas. I figure these would be great to construct the 1/2" tubes. The cloth would likely prolong the life of the sleeves; and, since it comes in rolls, they may also be wrapped continuosly without seams joining one strip to the next. I wanted to get some, but at $20/roll, didn't want to blow any more money. Once I get a few more bux I'm definitely going to try it.
Is the link broken to the tutorial?
Nick
It doesn't work for me, either.Quote:
Originally Posted by nickyspaghetti
-whatever
-Lou
EDIT: I just noticed that this is a very old thread. The link is probably down - hey, ToxIk...any chance of re-posting the tutorial?
Yeah i'd appreciate this too. I've been sticking wet and dry paper to small fabric cylinders with contact adhesive to create different grit sanding drums, but i wanted to see somebody elses (probably more experienced)view.
Nick
Hey, Nick - the link works, now!!
Thanks, ToxIk!!:tu
-whatever
-Lou
S-W-E-E-E-E-T ! ! !
Nice job, Jason, and a really good presentation!
This needs to be a restoration sticky!
-whatever
-Lou
Excellent, just what i was looking for.
Thanks Toxik
Nick
This is an interesting way to make them. much more like the real ones.
I made mine by using an old sanding drum that the grit had started peeling off. I pulled all the sandpaper from the fabric tube and then used contact adhesive to stick the new paper down onto the fabric. I did have an overlap going in the opposite direction to the tools spinning direction so that if the glue did start to fail then the paper wouldn't catch or fly off.
These worked really well, but i will try making the ones in the tutorial as making them in bulk would be so much easier than one by one!
Nick
Jason,
I'm trying to use the sanding drums you originally described, but I'm having a heck of a time getting the tape wrapped without touching it. Any suggestions there?
This new approach looks pretty cool; I'll have to grab some packing tape and give it a try.
Thanks,
Josh
Thanks Jason, good stuf.
*in guinness guy voice* Brilliant!!!!:tu
Oh great and powerful admin gods.....can we get this put into a sticky please?
Nice one! I read both your tutorials and they rule!
I was at the Dremel stand at Walmarts, the other day and I was thinking to myself...
"Why don't they have those little sanding drums in the finer grits that you need for razor blade restoration???.... "
My next thought was...
"Geesh, those little sleeves are'nt cheap, I wonder how many you go through restoring one razor?"
Thanks for passing on a really brilliant, useful, piece of information...
I've been gathering together my arsenal of razor fixing tools, and your gizmo is a perfect and totally essential, necessary adaptation & application of using the Dremel tool for razor restoration.
Tony
Hey guys,
I tracked down "somethings" that might be useful. In my creating my "Newbie Version" of ToxIk's Vlad's "Sanding Kits"!
Check-out the mandrels that are part of this "Sandind Set"
68pc Sanding Set, 1/8" shank, Bulk
Our Price: $5.97 each
http://http://www.widgetsupply.com/p...-set/SBA3-68pc
http://www.widgetsupply.com/dremel/b.../SBA3-68pc.jpg
I also found some other items on this site that would also make a good "Newbie" version of Vld's "Disc Sanding Mandrel".
7/8" Dark Red Polishing Wheel, 1/8" shank, bulk
Our Price: $1.49 each
http://http://www.widgetsupply.com/p...re-edge/D-DY20
http://www.widgetsupply.com/dremel/P...dprsw-DY20.jpg
3/4" Leather Buffing Wheel - 1/8" shank - Bulk
Our Price: $1.59 each
http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/...leather/D-BY21
http://www.widgetsupply.com/dremel/P...ffing-DY21.jpg
3/8 x 11/16" Leather Buffing Cylinder, 1/8" shank, Bulk
Our Price: $1.49 each
http://http://www.widgetsupply.com/p...leather/D-DR16
http://www.widgetsupply.com/dremel/P...b-dwr-DR16.jpg
Hey ToX!
I love your post, I made a "quick and dirty" version of your sanding mandrel over the weekend, and it works perfect....
I love the way that you can get the buff marks to go in the same direction as the original grinding marks....
When I was doing it by hand no matter how careful I was to sand in the direction of the grinding marks it never looked "just right", and looked kind of "amateurishly" done...
Now, with your mandrel my blades look really "professional", minty, and schweeeeeet...
I was trying to clean up a couple of blades by hand last week and 15 hours later I had made some progresss, but my hands/fingers were raw and ached and it felt like it was gonna be another 15 hours before the blades would even BEGIN to look "professional" and "minty"...
With your Gizmo, my two blades were "good to go" within minutes!
Thanks!
Tony
Jeez Toxik those things look shop bought!! Excellent job.
I used your first method a couple of weeks ago and was totally stoked with the results.
The one thing that took the time when sanding the blade, was actually, making the little individual cylinders, but you have taken this on board and shown us a way to do it very quickly!!
I love this idea. Move over dremel, the toxikmeister is a comin through!!
pea
Cool, I'm glad so many people find them useful. If you can get the hang of making the tubes down, I do quite strongly recommend them against the first version little cylinders; I find the tubes much less prone to flaying or catching an edge.
After using them so much, here's a method I find results in a good polished satin finish: Start with whatever grit you need to clean up the blade; this is usually no coarser than 220 for me. Continue up to 400grit and stop there. Now move all the way up to 2000 or higher grit. This is to smooth out the very high peaks of the 400 grit almost like you're polishing it out a little. Now use a little polish (simichrome, MAAS, flitz, etc.) to give the razor it's nice final lustre. I usually do the final polishing step by hand as I only wany to shine it up and not buff out any of the grind lines. The following pics are the results of some razors by using this very method.
satin - CF Helly - cwb1 - cwb2
yeah satin finishes are so nice. Very classy i think!!
Thanks for the info toxic. Great post
Oh yeah!
Back from the depths for this great info
...I know it has been 5 years since last post :D .. but the link doesn't seem to work, any chances of reposting tutorial to a new link?
thanks
+1 yes please!Quote:
Originally Posted by miha
+1 more for repost!Quote:
Originally Posted by MattCB
Two years later from the last post.. +1 for me too! 😬
Same here: re-up PLEASE
Let me see if I can remember how this is done.
1. Take a sheet of sandpaper and cut a strip 1.57 inches wide
2. Take a 1/2 inch diameter rod (I think he used an acrylic rod) and lube it up with wd-40 or some other light oil
3. Wrap packing tape with the sticky side out around the length of the rod spiraling downward in a clockwise direction.
4. Stick sandpaper to tape.
5. Roll sandpapered rod in between your hands to make sure that the sandpaper is stuck to the tape.
6. Pull sandpaper tube off of 1/2 inch rod (now you know why you lube the rod up)
7. Cut the tube into lengths that you need.
I've had good luck doing this with fabric based carpet tape, but switched over to just making 1/2 inch cardboard tubes and contact cement the sandpaper to the tube.
i can't see it eitherQuote:
Originally Posted by nickyspaghetti
That link has been broken for several years and it looks like Toxic has been inactive for several years as well.
Ok, I understand how to make the tubes... what do you attach them to on the drill or dremel?Quote:
Originally Posted by criswilson10
Either, depending on your mandrel. Make them to fit the mandrel you have.
There are several good YouTube videos on making the sanding drums, with tape and with glue.
Double stick tape on a ½ in. Dremel sanding drum works pretty well for a few applications of tape, WD40 will remove the tape, clean with alcohol and apply new tape. Works well for High grit Wet and Dry or polishing film.
I just put the tube over the dremel sanding drum and tighten the drum.Quote:
Originally Posted by 71L
Depending on how well I made the tube, sometimes I have to wrap the drum with a piece of tape for the tube to be snug.