Liner question

I have some walnut that I intend on making a set of scales out of. I have them slabbed to .125" x 1" x 6.25".

I was going to use aluminum as the liner. In wandering around Lowes, i came across aluminum flashing material. The flashing measures .009" on my calipers.

Would this be thick enough for liners?

My other thought would be to try to find copper sheeting about .0125" or .025".

I was also going to line the liners with black plastic sheeting (I read where garythepenman uses cheap binder cover material for this purpose.)

What do you experienced scale makers think about this? Am I on the right track?

Thanks,

Ray

I haven't worked with aluminium, but that sounds fine to me. The thickness of brass I use for liners is 0.010" thick, and after sanding to get a clean surface for adhesion, I'm guessing it wears off 0.001" anyway.

The brass liner's I use are 0.005, and they are VERY thin! I then added a second plastic liner to them (which was not necessary). Honestly, I'm not sure how necessary the liners are. My only thought is that if the wood is not stabilized or if you are putting pieces together it acts as a great foundation.

When I had the problem of the liner separating from the wood, I was a little hesitant to reglue them since the wood was fine by itself. The only reason I did wind up gluing them is that I thought the liner's really 'jazzed' up the look of the scales........

C utz

I use 10/1000" thick brass for liners so see no problem with 9/1000" aluminum.

http://razortips.blogspot.com/2006/0...cales-105.html

this may help... :)

Great tutorial, Bill. I am looking forward to the part where you talk about protecting the brass liners from corrosion, permanently if possible :D

Thanks guys. I'll give it a go with the stock I have.

Ray

I make knives in addition to being the source of belgian stones. My suggestion is to avoid aluminum and copper as they're too reactive. Try some titanium instead. It's not expensive on ebay and you can heat color it with a propane torch. It has a nice metal luster and won't react with anything. It goes REALLY NICE with walnut too! Titanium is fairly easy to work with as a metal whether you're grinding, sanding, or drilling it. If you're working it on a Bridgeport, gear down to a slower speed. Oh yes, .125 is 1/8" and that would be fine for a straight razor scale. You'll have to shape the edges to round them off and sandpaper of 80 grit followed by 120, 320 and then buff on a cotton or linen buffing wheel with white and you'll have a beautiful piece. Everybody will have an opinion about the above process but it works for me.


Howard

Can you get thinner titanium, like 0.01?

What do you mean by reactive? Aside from its flammability when ground fine, what is it about aluminum that would make it a poor choice as a straight razor scale liner?

I guess I can see copper due to the corrosive issue, but avoiding aluminum seems odd to me. But then, I don't make knives OR restore razors...yet :)

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Originally Posted by TomlinAS

What do you mean by reactive? Aside from its flammability when ground fine, what is it about aluminum that would make it a poor choice as a straight razor scale liner?

I guess I can see copper due to the corrosive issue, but avoiding aluminum seems odd to me. But then, I don't make knives OR restore razors...yet :)

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I had the same question because I use aluminum all the time and have been known to make a knife once, myself. I was hoping for a heads up in case aluminum is problematic somehow or another. Even sent a PM, but never got an answer. Must have pissed ole Howard off... :D

You've made a knife? :o

Unless you shave your face with a mercury-based soap (probably not good for your health) or plan on surgically implanting your razor in your body (ok, I may be guilty of this one, depending on if you ask my left ear or not)...I just can't see why Aluminum would be a bad choice.

Especially since we're not even talking about the blade...

I know there are concerns with aluminum cookware and acidic foods. In that case I think the concern is more that the food will be contaminated and you'll develop Alzheimer's Disease or something like that than that the aluminum pan will be ruined. Although untreated aluminum pans are also prone to pitting and darkening from certain foods.

You've made a knife? :o click the link




I had another question about the aluminum... but I can't remember what it was... my memory is shot, lately :D

Does anybody else know what Howard means by aluminum being reactive? Anybody?

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Originally Posted by urleebird

Does anybody else know what Howard means by aluminum being reactive? Anybody?

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Bill, I think he means it will corrode or oxidize easily. My $.02 :shrug:

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Originally Posted by azjoe

Bill, I think he means it will corrode or oxidize easily. My $.02 :shrug:

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This is what I assumed he meant. Or that aluminum could
have an affect on wood or horn scales?...


Terry

I wouldn't think interaction with the wood would be a problem. Depending on the aluminum alloy used, there might be a reason to consider what "corrosion" might occur. Usually bare aluminum forms an oxide coating very rapidly and that pretty much stops further oxidation. But since razors get wet, there's also galvanic action to consider. So, I guess you could wonder what might happen in the vicinity where the steel blade, the aluminum liner and brass pins all get together? And, if you add washers between the blade and the liner (which most of us would do) you have a nice "sandwich" of dissimilar metals. Honestly, it's been way too many years since I took chemistry to know for sure what might happen... I'll go back to sleep now... ;)

Just use titanium, it sound way cooler than
aluminum anyway...... :)


Terry

Terry, Bill will do titanium but only if you're willing to cut/shape the metal for him :D

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Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

Terry, Bill will do titanium but only if you're willing to cut/shape the metal for him :D

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Titanium? Oh, I meant that ALUMINUM was way
cooler...... Give me an ignorant slap..... :)


Terry

I'm giving it a go with the ally. It's just a piece of aluminum sheeting sold at Lowes for $.38. It's 8" x 7" Folded in half on the 8" side. It's in the roofing area.

I used my tin snips to cut it. (I like tinfoil..it's real easy to cut.) I'll let you know how it works out...

Ray