Not sure how to proceed with cleaning

I have a Wade & Butcher that is pretty tarnished but has no rust or pitting, as you can see from the attached image. I went over it with Prism metal polish for the initial cleaning. I then went over it with 320 grit paper, wet sanding with WD40. It cleaned up pretty well considering the shape that it was in when I started. I guess that my question is this. Do I continue with 320 at this point or move to something lighter? Do I forgo sandpaper at this point and switch to polish? If polish, do I need a buffer?

I'm concerned about eating into the etching on the blade. As you can see, near the bottom that seems to already be happening. The razor does feel smooth to the touch, no rough spots at all, not that that really means anything.

On another note, I have an old Delta bench grinder. If I swap out the grinding wheels for polishing wheels will that be adequate or is a grinder and a polisher two very different things? I do not believe that what I have is variable speed.

Any thoughts on the next step in the cleaning process would be appreciated. I really don't want to ruin this razor.



Thanks!Attachment 105197

I would try the buffing pads with green and then white if no rust or pitting. Go lightly and do not put pressure on the wheels. Keep a cup of water handy and dunk the razor every couple seconds to keep it cool. See what it looks like here before going any further.

Have fun.

+1 to what Lynn said. Another thing you can try is to use steel wool(#0-#0000) with the metal polish. Steel wool won't eat into the etching.

Lynn,

I hate to sound ignorant, but in this case it can't be helped. Do you mean buying buffing wheels for my grinder and using that? By green and white I assume that you are talking about the actual buffing compound that I would apply to the wheels. If so, I will look into that. Also, are some buffing pads (wheels?) better than others? I have no experience with this (can you tell?). Okay, off to look at some other posts and HOWTOs...

I do mean buffing wheels. Caswell has some nice ones. I would drop down to 4 and 6 inch wheels. I like the sewn pads for everything up to the rouges and then I use the loose wheel. The green and white are buffing compounds.

I think I still have a video up on psyswiped's youtube site showing what I do with these.

Good luck. Nice razor.

When you say that you use sewn pads for up to the rouges and then the loose wheel, where does the green and white come in compared to the rouges? Would I get the loose wheels for the green and white? I saw this wheel, a 6" x 1/2", would that be the correct one? Is there a recommended place to get the buffing compounds? I looked online but was a bit confused by all of the different ones out there (most were green...). Any more advice for the thoroughly confused? :)

as per my polishing SS -for other than shaving porpoises-, i'd say that you're safe going to 600 on the paper before polish. you can control paper better than polisher. i have paper to 2000 grit, and it may go finer, but 600 is pretty slick.

and yeah, bench grinder make into polisher.

can't reply offhand on the rouges, have to look it up like anybuddy else.

Did you get a chance to watch this?

YouTube - Light Straight Razor Restoration

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Originally Posted by spinsheet

When you say that you use sewn pads for up to the rouges and then the loose wheel, where does the green and white come in compared to the rouges? Would I get the loose wheels for the green and white? I saw this wheel, a 6" x 1/2", would that be the correct one? Is there a recommended place to get the buffing compounds? I looked online but was a bit confused by all of the different ones out there (most were green...). Any more advice for the thoroughly confused? :)

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Yes, I certainly did watch it. I did notice that you were not dipping the razor in water as you suggested that I do. Is that just an 'in case' thing? I was amazed at how quickly that razor went from tarnished to a mirror finish. It did look as if the wheels were loose and not sewn pads, but being new at this I wasn't sure. I also have your DVDs and they were a great help with my honing (not to change the subject).

I'll purchase the loose wheels for my grinder (if those are indeed what I need to use for the green and white compounds. I'm just not sure where to purchase the compounds. Are green and white pretty much standard no matter where you get them? A friend of mine just gave me 200 razors (long story there) and I can't wait to get working on them.

Wow....

Green & white get sewn wheels. I suggestef the water because your machine is 3600 rpm. The one on the video is 1100 rpm. Maybe you should just hand sand. 400 to 1500 should work.

Have fun.

Don't forget the option of leaving some tarnish/character on it. Always more than way to work a razor. Best part it's up to your preference. Have fun!

I strongly suggest that you use 4 inch wheels - the smaller the wheel (pad) the lower the feet per minute speed that you are effectively buffing with. Be very carefull when you are buffing - buffers tend to grab razors and throw them in places sharp things shouldn't go. Good luck.

Any suggestions on where to buy a low speed buffer, something in the 1100 rpm range and Lynn suggests? I looked on Harbor Freight and they only seem to have high speed. I realize that HF is not high end but for the little bit that I'll be using one that should be fine. I saw that they had grinders (3600 rpm) in the $30 - $40 range, is there a chance in hell of finding something in that price range in the 1100 rpm range?

I just found this grinder, it's variable speed, 0 - 10,000 RPM and the price is right. Any thoughts? Would I just be wasting my money?

It has no clearance, however thanks for the link I think I can use that for other parts of customization :p

BTW at the top of the forum "The Workshop" is a sticky in red

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html


Note the name of the thread :p

in there is everything you could possibly need to know to get started, honest it is there

I have heard tell of a Restorist that uses those Crappy HF buffers and 4 in wheels, I have heard that he has done 1000's of razors on his and never had a problem :shrug:

The problem with buffers and razors is heat, be careful of heat build up (This means the Razor and the Buffer) and you will do fine, start with the heavier thicker blades and get the hang of it before snapping a hollow into pieces or burning the temper :)

Read, watch and learn then start...


"Rush a Restore, Wreck a Razor" words to live by at this hobby

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gssixgun

in there is everything you could possibly need to know to get started, honest it is there

I have heard tell of a Restorist that uses those Crappy HF buffers and 4 in wheels, I have heard that he has done 1000's of razors on his and never had a problem :shrug:

The problem with buffers and razors is heat, be careful of heat build up (This means the Razor and the Buffer) and you will do fine, start with the heavier thicker blades and get the hang of it before snapping a hollow into pieces or burning the temper :)

Read, watch and learn then start...


"Rush a Restore, Wreck a Razor" words to live by at this hobby

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:roflmao I spit a little on the screen when I read this part. You are the reason I haven't given serious thought to owning a buffer.