A few simple questions.

I've read a lot of the relevant threads and the library is not open at the moment but I have a few basic questions.

Making basic wooden scales seems fairly easy. Let's say I find a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 6" (or longer) strip of Cocobolo.

My razor is about 6 " long so the strip would need to be a little longer to account for material to make the wedge out of.

Are most pins used for this sort of thing 1/16 "? Most people seem to use either brass or some sort of nickle combination.

So to make a basic pair of scales one needs to order the wood blanks, brass rod/pins and then the fasteners for each end of the brass pins and possible internal washers for the pivot pin and wood glue for the wedge?

Is that it and where does one get those fasteners for the 1/16" pins? That seems like the only thing that wouldn't be easy to find.

I have no previous experience with peening so I'm sure there is a learning curve. I've looked at the videos.

I've looked at some of the threads and lists on this site but there is too much info there and I still don't know if the only hard to get part are the fasteners.

Any concise/specific help would be appreciated. I'd like to order parts enough to replace the scales on two razors just as a learning experience.

If you go to:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

you will find where to purchase pinning supplies. You will also find pictures on making scales.

I hope someone joins in and can give the link to the video showing how to make scales with all hand tools.

Good luck! :tu

microfasteners.com has the washers, I found some #0 ss, and #0 ss wide at my local ace for a pinch if need be. Also, it's a whole lot easier to start w/ 1/8" thick wood unless you want to have to keep resawing. You can look around for thin stock lumber. I've gotten most of mine from bellforestproducts.com, woodcraft.com, and rockler.com. Working w/ wood isn't the most difficult, but unlike the g10, carbon fiber, acrylics you need to be careful thinning them out or you'll burn the wood into the grain and ruin the look of the wood. Also, the finishing is more time consuming. You can go CA, epoxy, shellac, tung oil, danish oil. I have found that trueoil from birchwood casey, and Arm-r-Seal from general finishes, gives the look of CA w/ out all the sanding, and are tougher and guranteed not to yellow over time. Pinning wood is also different. If you get them too tight or peen too hard you will crack the sides of your holes. Glen suggests practicing on popsicle sticks, and I would have to agree, or some cheap craft wood from hobby lobby to get the feel for it first. The rods are brass and nickel silver, any knife supplier carries these in 1/16". You can get the brass rod from hobby lobby for about $4.