Hey guys,
Can anyone point me in the direction of some good jimping step-throughs or any tips in general? I have a couple blades (straight and fixed) I wouldn't mind adding some more decorative jimping on the spine.
Bests,
Samuel
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Hey guys,
Can anyone point me in the direction of some good jimping step-throughs or any tips in general? I have a couple blades (straight and fixed) I wouldn't mind adding some more decorative jimping on the spine.
Bests,
Samuel
Dremmel with metal cutting disks?
Tough to do on a hardened blade
As Pixelfixed said, on a hardened blade you can't do much but do what Wintchase said.
If you are making a razor and it has not been heat treated then you can use whatever you want from a file that cuts them perfectly (available through Brownells) like the checkering on a gun, a round or tri-angle file, dremel, heck, even stiple it with a pointed chisel. Once it has been heat treated though, the razor is as hard or harder than the files...so you are stuck with a cutting disc on a dremel.
Okay, I'll keep this in mind. I was thinking maybe a dremel with a diamond tipped bit. Thanks for the heads up everyone.
I was thinking maybe if I heated up the spine on a hard buffing wheel, or maybe took a bit of the spine off with a grinding wheel, then I could localize the de-tempering and make the work a little easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
If you're going that route be sure the razor is as secure as possible in a vise. It's a dangerous mission with a dremel cut-off wheel or any other dremel tool.Quote:
Originally Posted by Samuel
With vintage razors it's a hit and miss. I've had vintage razors where it was easy to add jimps and others where my files would just skate over the steel. It all depends the heat treat the razor was given and if the tang was hardened or not.
Either way, be safe.
Did anybody tried high presure water cuter?
Have made one pce Ivory scales using a water jet machine in a friends machine shop.Quote:
Originally Posted by adrspach
Pretty pricy for a small job tho unless you know someone.
When I did it with a razor I made out of a hardened hand file I was lucky to have a surface grinder at my disposal & form ground the jimps with a super hard 220 wheel. Made it thru the entire progression without any wheel breakdown.
And that was some glass hard steel.
Attachment 112392
Spazola (Charlie) posted some time back how he straightens tangs by first softening them. I think it was a video. The tang really doesn't need to be hard, so you could go that route - then you could use a file for jimps. I have used heat block paste when I soldered a bolster on a knife. Somewhere a long time ago I read you can stick the hardened blade in a potatoe to keep it cool. Not suggesting this without a test.
If you want to soften it first then there are many other methods. Some time ago I have seen Stan Shaw using knurling wheel to make jimping on his knives. And it is something what I am planning to try once I get myself together and make a blade. Another option would be cut it like old file makers used to.
I use a Swiss checkering file prior to heat treating.
Some knifemakers use a threading file - which is much less expensive and has the advantage of 8 different tooth per inch sizes in one tool.
Yep checkering files here also but only pre heat treatment
No good post HT
Simple triangular file, patience and practice. Checkering files don't fit in notched areas
