Getting stubborn Jimps shiney- By hand?

I have restored a number of old sheffiled blades to date, and many companies including w&b use a vey tight, angled jimp on the tang of thir razors. I do restorations by hand-n-sand and wanted to know if any body had tips on getting those tight spots as shiny-polished as the rest of the blade. I have tried scotchbright pads, mothers and even trying to go jimp by jimp with the edge of 1000/1500 grit sand paper. Dont get me wrong they get 'clean' this way but they always look a little dingy or less polished then the rest of the blade. Any tips to how i casn get these bad boys sparkling by hand?

Is the only time I use a dremel ,with a SS wire wheel,works great.

Try some Mothers and an old toothbrush. If that doesn't work try a small wire or brass bristled brush.

Thanks, all good advice. I was looking to pick up a dremel 4000 for g.p. Its always good to have one around any way. Think im going to give the dremel/wheel a try. i do not have a brass brush but i have tried toothbrush with metal polish and that what has gotten them as clean as the are now; not that high polished 'finshed' work i was hoping to see. Any other tips? - will keep you guys posted ona before and after once i figure out what to do.

If your going for hand work, toothbrush is good idea. BUT, make sure that it is a firm or hard brush, and not one of the "soft" variety. Then, instead of metal polish, use some of the rubbing compounds on it.

Just make sure that whatever compounds you use are softer than the razor.To my eye is nothing worse than to see rounded off hand cut jimps on restos.

I have a rotatory tool and was going to offer to experiment for you. HA I have no jibs. Oh well. I do have a pack of these that I started to use for cleaning and polishing my razor as they get into some places with a firm pressure. Like between scales and same only on the tang where it goes thru the scales. They have some thickness to them but I don't know if they would reach the bottom of a jib. I supposed you could use a polishing paste on them to some extent too. I have yet to experiment with that.Attachment 117059

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Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Just make sure that whatever compounds you use are softer than the razor.To my eye is nothing worse than to see rounded off hand cut jimps on restos.

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agreed. Thats why i do hand sand restorations as apposed to a buffer. I fund buffin often turns a razor in to a shiney blob. Not a good llok. I wouve seeing the original forging and grind marks, the way it was when it left the factory.

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Originally Posted by 10Pups

I have a rotatory tool and was going to offer to experiment for you. HA I have no jibs. Oh well. I do have a pack of these that I started to use for cleaning and polishing my razor as they get into some places with a firm pressure. Like between scales and same only on the tang where it goes thru the scales. They have some thickness to them but I don't know if they would reach the bottom of a jib. I supposed you could use a polishing paste on them to some extent too. I have yet to experiment with that.Attachment 117059

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That looks like a solid idea, those look like they have a back bone to them which would help get deep into those hard to reach spots.

They are a pretty stiff plastic and the non covered end makes a fairly good scraper. Maybe could sharpen it some. I have just used it with blue magic but this thread got me to thinking about other things that I have to try now. I have used just that one stick for about 8 razors so far and no signs of it falling apart yet.

I use 000 synthetic steel wool with MAAS. Honestly, I don't think jimps are supposed to be shiny...

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Originally Posted by holli4pirating

I use 000 synthetic steel wool with MAAS. Honestly, I don't think jimps are supposed to be shiny...

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The shiny parts of a razor got shiny at the factory because someone put it on a polishing wheel. The polishing wheel DID NOT get down into the jimps.

When you're talking about old Sheffield blades, typically only the blade face was done to a mirror polish. The spine and tang were left with the finish from the final shaping grind, done on emery wheels.

I have used a quality ( Jewelers' grade) finely cut needle file. I find the cross section which is closest to the original jimp cut. Usually that would be a tri corner, flat oval, or a knife shape. I then set the blade into a narrow slot cut the long way into a 6" long 2x2 which is longer that the blade portion of the razor and supports the shank and spine without allowing the edge and bevel to make contact anywhere. I then carefully align the file perfectly along the existing jimp slots and one slow careful stroke will normally get to the bottom. The jig is also great for sanding the spine and tail because it can secure the razor and held in one hand while working on them with the other hand.
The shanks and tails of a razor are usually not well hardened so a file will cut quickly. Be careful or all is for naught!
Richard

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Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Is the only time I use a dremel ,with a SS wire wheel,works great.

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This is my method if I am not using the buffer wheels. You will need some maas or some such after to remove the scuff marks it makes.

am no metal expert, but SS is maybe at best 40 RC.perhaps well below a razors hardness,with a light touch it works well,scuffing has not been an issue,(with a light touch)