Well the title says it all, any good tips?
Soak it in oil, water?
Even with very sharp chisels it want to spit up...
It's some old teak from a shipwreck, gets beautiful once sanded and oiled with chinese tung oil but hard to work it.
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Well the title says it all, any good tips?
Soak it in oil, water?
Even with very sharp chisels it want to spit up...
It's some old teak from a shipwreck, gets beautiful once sanded and oiled with chinese tung oil but hard to work it.
Teak,unless totally dried out should not crack as it has a very High oil content so no help from me,sorry.
Teak is also very hard on tools such as saws and router bits etc because it has a very High silica content,good luck,canyou post some pics?
Yeah, but this one seams to have dried out totally from being submerged for some 100 years or so.
I'm making a wood stand for a Hideriyama jnat.
Will try to take some pics, I'm really lousy with a camera...
Pic... the stand for the Nakayama Aisa on the picture is from the same piece of wood only with tung oil on it, and some dirt!
http://i.imgur.com/tiMmFnO.jpg
Would just heavily oil it,would use mineral oil (AKA food grade butcher block oil)
Any natural oil will work,I have built alot of things out of teak,back when it was affordable.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...cone/Horse.jpg
I have worked a lot of teak and mahogany over the years - capping and rubbing strips, decking and planking, interior fitting, etc on boats and in building houses when staircases have had to be fitted. It does have some inherent problems, like localised tear out and change of grain direction that make planing some strips a nightmare. These are mostly due to defects in the wood - not a lot you can do about that.
And yes, it does dry out. I suppose the oil content does not change significantly, but the moisture content does - old grey weathered teak splits and cracks and skews. Throwing sea water over the deck swells it up again and stops the leaks.
If your problem is that of splits, cracks and fissures that have happened in the timber, then I fail to see what you can do about it - oil won't 'stick' it all together. Maybe some sort of stabilising fluid or resin that hardens at the same time might help - but I don't know if they are successful with hardwoods like teak.
Good luck with the oil treatment, though. If it does nothing else, it will get rid of a few sheets of clogged-up sandpaper for you!
Regards,
Neil
Well, taking out of its oily bath now, hopefully it is fresh like a lady who just stepped out of her bath and won't give me any trouble.
The grain direction is all over the place, feels like herding cats!
cowboys herding cats - YouTube
Today it's the kanna (jap. plane) that is in control, the oil did help, the blade just glides nicely thru the fibers as the wood is softer than yesterday.
Indeed Mr Miller is very well versed with teak wood for sure, i remember him talking about a beautiful bench he built himself for his dear Mother in Law, a masterpiece in my eyes.
Attachment 121955
Ohh, no!
My wide chisel isn't sharp, maybe I can find something to sharpen it on... ;)
Fantastic!
The only thing that could be desired is a long-shot, to show the lake of burning oil and the Nantucket harpooners standing by in the unlikely event of asbestos underwear defeating the lake....
Ah, simple joys to while away the trials of everyday life - thanks Martin!
Regards,
Neil
It's all done!
Attachment 121994
The base is Teak 22 x 12 cm and the stone a Hideriyama tomae.
For being submerged in salt water for 100yrs, looks almost new,and laminated:)
Haha, yeah it looks like it's been glued together but it's not, at least I can't see it.
Better pic of the wood here; http://i.imgur.com/2cNwdzk.jpg