So here I have this greaves wedge that I want to restore, but the blade has a bunch of strains and some pitting. On one hand I can just polish and it would not take that long to get rid of the blemishes, but polishing might get rid of this
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So here I have this greaves wedge that I want to restore, but the blade has a bunch of strains and some pitting. On one hand I can just polish and it would not take that long to get rid of the blemishes, but polishing might get rid of this
If you just polish it with some Mother's and a rag the etching will remain intact, and probably become much more visible.
This has been my personal experience, at least. Good luck.
I would polish the tang and spine. Then, as was recommended, use polish and a rag on the blade to keep some patina and more importantly, the etching.
a little bit of mothers , a little quick hit on the tang with some 1500-2000 , a little hone work , and AAAALLLOOOTTT of good shaves !!! .. thats all id do !! :)
Please do not basterdize that wonderfull blade,slowly work it by hand as above,This is a case where less is more.
im off topic but that word fit the post perfect !!!...lol..Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
ya what he said above ( there im back on topic :) )
I have not been able to stop thinking about this razor all day. I'm already a sucker for a heavy wedge, especially a Sheffielder-- but, that is probably the coolest phrase that I've seen etched on a blade. It appeals the both my thrifty and nihilistic tendencies-- a rare combination indeed! :beer2:
Well I might just give it away, because I feel like giving up on it. The pitting is just too deep to not sand.
have you tried putting it to the stones to see if the bevel can in fact be made clean? Pitting on the surface does not always necessarily mean a bad edge.
Well even under my inept hands it picked up a nice straight-ish bevel. So before I give up completely I am going to get a -1000 stone and work the bevel a bit (I was using a Norton 4/8k). And second I want it to make it look a bit cleaner. Do far I have used a blue polish and a rust remover and on the smooth side 1k sand paper.
Anything new to report? I've been anxious to see how this bad boy turned out.
Well I wasn't able to do a that much for the pitting, but it does appear to shave and the text became slightly more legible. I am waiting for stone b grade camel bone blanks that I plan to use to make scales and some pins. It might take another week since my cycling racing and training just started. I was also thinking of a lighter color wood and stain it with some antique gray so it's
A) white holly or some lighter bleached wood stained with antique gray stain.
B) bone boiled in chamomile to get some yellowing (I will call it antique bone)
C) some darker wood with little or no lines and carved to be made look like a hammered metal.
What should it be A, B, or C?
I'd go for the bone. I have one razor with wooden scales that I like, but many I've seen look chunky.
In regards to the pitting, I myself don';t see a problem with pitting, unless it's on the edge.
I don't generally like etching on blades, it seems a little flashy to me, but I like the etching on this one.
My vote's for bone, as well.
Here is the pieces of bonds that I'm trying to make into scales. Let me tell you bone is a pain when you don't have power tools. Right now I would kill for a table belt sander. Somebody any suggestions as far as shape as I have enough room to trim
You know, I've always liked the shape of the scales of the W&B I got from Maxi; everyone that sees them likes the shape too. What about this shape?
Attachment 124935
Here it goes an update on the scales that are almost finish. I might need to trim the height. ( I love bone, but hate working on it).
Bone scales in my opinion are the best for the purpose, but they are a pain in the rear. I would call this a labor of love. Most of the people in the circle I know use g-10, so I applaud you for going the extra mile for those scales. I am sure they will look wonderful when finished. Good luck and great job
does anybody know to finish bone? After sanding to let's say 1500-200 what is next? can they just be let as is or should they be wax, varnished or sealed.
Since the bone is porous I believe you would need to seal it. I have no experience with that process, so I will defer to those who do when it comes to the how.
well since I am waiting for the ca glue to arrive, I will be busy on this
Attachment 125818
With out the patina and with about 3 hours of 120 sanding. As you can see most of the pitting is gone on one side. I wool probably put Smithee hours of 120-200 grit and then I will start moving up to 400, 600, 800, 1200, and I will probably stop at 1500. I will finish by polishing with blue magic.
Here are the pictures
Mineral oil and ren-wax,If you totally seal them,down the road they may crack,Like most hard natural materials they need to move with changes in humidity.Quote:
Originally Posted by rocarule
To each his own. On that particular blade I would have spent 3 minutes with semichrome on a paper towel and called it good. :pQuote:
Originally Posted by rocarule
yup, that would have been my choice tooQuote:
Originally Posted by JimmyHAD
After about 10 minutes with 800 and 1200 grit.
You know this is a second blade right?Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyHAD
Here is an update
+Jimmiehad. I saw that razor whit that fine platina. I was thinking why sanding?
But its your razor, enyoy him.
I really like those jigged scales, how does she shave?
Well let's say that the razor has potential but it needs more time on the stones (more like I need more time on the hones), but acceptable for a first time on the hones.
There is no substitute for time on the hones!Quote:
Originally Posted by rocarule
I was going this route, but the pitting although not deep was to much for my eyes to bear.Quote:
Originally Posted by kalerolf
