Difference in Chrome/Green Polishes

I saw in gssixgun's post here:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...tml#post433522

He said that he uses the following progression:

* Dico Emery (Black?)
* Dico Stainless (Grey?)
* Dico Chrome
* .5 Micron Chromium Oxide

Then, I was looking here:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...tml#post554898

And he said he uses the following progression:

* Emery (Black?)
* Stainless (Grey?)
* White
* Chrome

So, based on that, I have a few questions:

1. Is there a progression between the two mentioned above that is preferrable?

2. Is what is normally referred to as "Green Rouge/Polish" generally the same thing as "Chrome Rouge/Polish"?

3. I suppose I would have assumed that the "Chrome Rouge/Polish" would be the same thing as Chromium Dioxide? When he mentions "Chromium Dioxide" in the first list, how is that different from the Dico Chrome?

Thanks

You are overcomplicating it :)

There are many different brands out there and they all basically range from Emory/Black - "Whatever" they decide to call it... There really isn't much correlation between brands I suggest picking a brand buying their progression from low to high and trying it out...


Caswells or MidwayUSA both carry full lines from the Fomax Greaseless through the high grit Polishing compounds

There are many other Polishing compounds but not many Greaseless compounds

gssixgun,

Ok, thank you. So, for a seriously rusted and pitted razor, I am thinking of trying:

Formax Greaseless 80
Formax Greaseless 120
Formax Greaseless 180
Formax Greaseless 320
Formax Greaseless 400
Formax Greaseless 600
Dico Black Emery
Dico Grey Stainless
Dico White
Dico Chrome

Is that a good way to start out?

Yes that would work all too well


BUT

You can save money and time by skipping a few Fomax compounds 80-180-320-600 would work just as well

Also the polishing compounds can be very overdone and come out making the steel look too "Bright" so stop and look as you progress,, Keeping a nice vintage razor in sight will help you a ton

Not to hijack but which one is your primary work horse in this line up?

Presuming it would be an average restore for something that looks workable from eBay.

Light pitting, mild rust, and so forth?

gssixgun,

Ok, thank you. This has been very helpful.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pfries

Not to hijack but which one is your primary work horse in this line up?

Presuming it would be an average restore for something that looks workable from eBay.

Light pitting, mild rust, and so forth?

---

Once you say the word Pitting that makes me think the 80 grit,, but often when I first check a blade to see where I stand, I will buzz it on the 600 to clean off all the surface crud, and it let's me see what is really under there, then I let the razor tell me which way to head