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may be a stupid question, but when handsanding a blade using wet dry sandpaper im gonna use and start at 80 grit and try to go as high as i can with what i can find in local stores, my question is does it have to be wet dry sandpaper and are you using water or wd40 when sanding and do i need to use water or i can sand dry??
Wow, 80 grit! That's very coarse. I start with 400, or 240 if the pitting looks bad, and if that isn't removing the pitting quickly enough, I will try 120, but it then takes forever going back up the grades. I've pretty much given up on blades with pitting bad enough to need 120 grit.
I've always used the paper dry, I hadn't thought of using wd40.
80 is way too coarse.
220 is very coarse for the job at hand but could be appropriate for a heavily rusted wedge.
I much prefer sanding with wet paper.
A firm rubber eraser makes for a cheap and easy form to wrap the paper around.
Will 220 remove pitting ? Handsanding? If I spend enough time on the 220?
One word, yes...but then you have to remove the deep gouges that the 220 left. For hollows I use a section of radiator hose (any thicker rubber hose will work) with a section of wooden broom handle for my hollows.
I typically only go to 400 and then work up. Less is really more when it comes to straight razors and "grit".
Ok I just started sanding a crown and sword with 220 gonna work it all the way up to I think 600 grit in my variety pack I think that may b the highest grade wet dry I have found locally if I can find higher I'll go higher than I'll polish.. See what happens. So far so good actually just found 1000 wet dry at auto zone so I'll take it to that ..
Check hobby stores. They often have higher grit paper. The hobby store around here has up to 12000 grit paper.
Amazon also has up to 3k at decent prices and if you are a Prime member then the shipping is free. I had a hard time sourcing anything over 1k locally.Quote:
Originally Posted by Theseus
i bought some sponge looking wheels that are 180-220 and 220-320 ( i think those are the estimated grit ratings ) that i will use on HEAVY pits in the rotary ( nothing near the edge though ) then ill go by hand 320,400,600,800,1000,1500,2000 ... i buy all of mine at walmart and its almost $2 less a pack then anywhere else i have found it ... most of the autoparts stores carry it if your near to either of them 2 ... i think either the 400 or 600 i only find at the autoparts stores though ...
Attachment 124361 ok so far hand sanded up until 600 grit,than Maas than polished with dremel gonna get some 1500 grit and polish again I'm so happy with results so far .. Pfries is gonna send me original scales for this razor then will b complete..
May I borrow this thread a moment? You're asking pretty much the same question as I want to.
I've just picked this up off eBay with the intention of trying my hand at some light restoration:
Attachment 124365
I have two questions:
1. What grit sandpaper do you reckon I want to start at? On one of the how-to threads, a really coarse grit was mentioned but here the consensus seems to be that you don't want to start too low.
2. This might be a funny question but will it be absolutely necessary to take the scales off? I wasn't really planning to and I don't want to crack them by accident, either...but it would be a shame to do a half-arsed job by sanding around them, too.
Before u start sanding, try maas. My razor was alot worse i started at 220..
Check out Amazon. I picked up a package of various grit papers from 1000 to 2500. I cleaned up one wit some minor rust on the spine. If youre having a hard time finding it, try Amazon.
I've found an assorted pack of the following grits:
120, 240, 400, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500
Does that sound like a suitable progression? Maybe start sanding from 240 upwards?
Also, what do you guys think about the scales? I didn't want to have to go to the trouble of repinning the scales but my head is telling me to do it for the sake of a job well done...
That set of grits should be enough, unless you want a mirror finish, in which case micromesh is your best bet. 2500 should leave a nice shiny satin finish, you'll only be able to see the scratches in very strong light/under magnification.
I'd try starting at 400, and only go to 240 if there is pitting/scratching which is obviously too deep to remove with 400.
If you don't unpin, you won't be able to get right up to the scales with the sandpaper. But it's not hard to crack the scales trying to unpin a razor, so there's a risk involved. Have you considered putting tape round the tang and just polishing the blade itself, leaving a sort of 2-tone razor?
Ok, thanks. I'll start from 400.
Polishing the blade only is a cool idea, it not really thought of it. Maybe I'll wait until the razor arrives and make a decision from there, once I've seen it myself.
Mayb im.wrong but dont u.work.up.from.the 240 to.the finer grits to.remove scratches..
Because you don't have experience to look back on, try something like 400 on the back of the spine and then remove the 400 grit scratches with 600.
The spine area is way easier to sand and a flat blocking to accomodate the sandpaper is easy to come up with.
I have used the hard erasers that school kids use for backing the sandpaper. It is cheap and easy to grind to the proper shape to accomodate the curveature with coarse sandpaper.
After you sand a small area with 400, remove those scratches with the 600, and you will find the degree of hardness and toughness that the blade offers.
With that lesson learned you might decide that you don't want to go any coarser then 400.
If you start with 220 you will be stuck with removing those relatively deep scratches or accept them residing on your blade.
If your blade is very thin at the edge 220 won't work there but can be used where the metal is thicker.
For me if I need coarser than 600 at the bevel area I tend to want to pass on restoring that blade unless it is a half hollow or a wedge, and then it can be harder to decide.
Good luck to you and be ready for some really sore fingers.:gl:
Nice post. Thanks!
Doesn't have to be wet dry.
I find normal 'dry' on linen to be the fastest in metal removal. You can use WD40 to prevent it from loading up with swarf.
Could someone tell me what kind / size of washers I need? I'm trying to find the right thing, preferably from a UK site.
Rescale? A razor?
Sorry, yeah. I think I'm gonna try and get those scales off, so I'm looking for washers for when I re-pin it.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html. its all.Here
I use M1.6 stainless steel washers (1.6mm hole diam) on the outside of the scales, and M2 (2mm hole) between the blade and the inner side of the scales (you could probably use M1.6 for both, although I haven't tried). I got them from online fasteners nuts and bolts retailer, who also trade on ebay (as Stainlessbolts, I think). A bag of 100 was a couple of quid.
1/16" brass rod for making the pins I got from Welcome to the Model Dockyard, about 80p for 12" IIRC, plus postage.
That's perfect! Thanks very much. I'll order some in the morning!
I've found a site that I'll get some brass rods and a ballpein hammer from (1oz or 2oz?)
I hadn't thought about it but the brass pin with stainless washer might look rather good!
If u look at that link i sent everything u need is there as well as how to.peen.. with video..s and links where to.get everything sizes of washers and rod.. try ebay a srp member member undream...or maggards razors sells a kit..with everything im.using a cheap 8 oz from. Hf
I'd looked through most of those threads, anyway, and the videos and stuff are very useful. For tools and parts, though, really only found US measurements and US stores. Google as I might, I was still having trouble finding a store in the UK that sold the correct sized washers, so I wanted to confirm what I was looking for.
Boltmeup.com was a good call, though, and now I have a pack of 1.6M flat washers and a pack of 2M flat washers in the post to me.
A 2oz hammer and some brass rods are also on the way.
Was unaware of ur location.. sorry.. any knowledge i have,ill b more than willing to.pass along..
Gents,
Just wanted to share why I started this post, I just finished my first full restore on this crown and sword. Hand sanded starting at 220 to 1000 grit wet dry.. Then polished with Dremel with different polishing compounds.. Than hand polished with Maas.. Honed on a king 1k norton 4/8 haven't shaved yet but I'll let u know.. Comments. Big thank you to pfries for the awesome scales god bless!!! She shaved wonderfully!!Attachment 124845Attachment 124846.
Attachment 124847
You have done a great job. It is looking like you moved through all the grits required to bring that blade home. Congratulations and enjoy your work.
When I restore knives I start with 1200 wet dry, use it for 5 min then I deside if I need too go realy low or if i can start with 400-600. Saves time for me atleast:) and as an bonus some times some of the deeper scratches just look cool, then 600 and up preserves them.
