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Going to dabble a little into scale making and was wondering if anyone has had experience on the HF scroll or dremel scroll? Got some sheets comin from delvrie plastics and I was going to try and use just a dremel with the cutter attachment but not sure if it's more of hassle to use.
I have one of the ones from... Sears, I think. I seem to remember it was around $100. I unsure HF is cheaper... But also cheaper, if you know what I mean. I'd say that with a tool like that, it's probably worth a little more to get something that will hold up to its workload.
That said, I picked up a cheap HF grinder that I turned into a buffer because I wanted something faster (RPM, that is), and it does its job very well.
I use one of the old Dremel scroll saws that is nearly impossible to get parts for now, but it works really well for what I use it for. I have a HF belt/disk sander that has held up really well so far, but no clue how the scroll saw would be.
My advice is NOT to buy a scroll saw. IME, you'll be a lot happier with a bench top bandsaw.
I actually wish I had a bandsaw cause I could do alot more with it easier than with a scroll saw.
I've got the HF, it's good for the price, but I would have gone with the Porter cable if I had to do it all over again. The one good thing for the HF is you can use plain and pin in blades, so it is a bit more versatile. The scroll is great for woods, but if you want bone or god forebid g10, good luck. I broke down and got a 9" bench top band saw for the harder stuff. The scroll just burns through blades, and wants to grab the
g10, took me like 3 blades my first set of g10. You can however cut acrylic just fine on a medium speed with the #7 blade (11-15tpi are best).
Thanks gents...I thought about a band saw but wasn't sure if it was just as versatile. I guess based on the advice a band saw it is. When looking at used ones what would you consider besides running would you look for in a band saw?
I totally disagree here. To get the fine curvature some scales require you need a scroll saw. You can also tilt the table of most scroll saws to create bevelled edges on scales.Quote:
Originally Posted by regularjoe
I use a Ryobi scroll saw. At low speeds it's great. At higher speeds I can't use it, the table moves up and down by about 2 inches ridiculous!
Theere are advantages to using a bandsaw, like it's inherent stability, personally I wouldn't trade the versatility for stability JMHO.
Well, the good thing about the 9 and 10" bench top bandsaws, is that they have a variety of blades for them. I keep bosche blades, in 1/4" 6tpi, 1/8" 15tpi, and one 1/8" 20 tpi, and with the 15, 18, and 20tpi blades, I can cut almost 90* w/out twiting the blade. I use the skil 9" from lowes by the way.
Thanks Carl..definitely got some thinking to do.
I started with a hand fretsaw, got a second hand scroll saw, then a thin blade table top bandsaw. The bandsaw wins hands down. Once you have thicknessed the material, a bit of double sided tape or similar keeps the two scales together while you cut them to shape. Leave them stuck together, then finish of on a small bench sander.
Regards,
Neil
Scroll saws are useless JMO
I feel like I'm in a trash bag comparison commercial...you know...hefty hefty hefty..wimpy wimpy wimpy. Scrolls vs Bands. :rofl2:
For the occasional light job, they work,but they have alot of limitations,JMOQuote:
Originally Posted by razorbarber38
That's the trouble - we all have different opinions/expectations. To be brutally honest, if you buy a decent tool and get used to using it then you can get the best out of it, whether its a hand saw, a scroll saw, a bandsaw or whatever. Its the skill of the person using it that really counts. The limitations of each tool are quite well known, but you can get over them and then get the best out of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by razorbarber38
Just remember that spending too little is a sure-fire recipe for disaster....
Regards,
Neil
The scroll saw is for lighter duty work and you have much more finesse, greater detail, and you can saw in all directions while moving the work. Not to mention you can start from a drilled hole in the work.
A band saw is a big step up the duty ladder. You can cut much thicker pieces faster and still do much the same thing. Except for starting from a drilled hole and cutting in all directions.
I was in the same boat as you for several weeks until I found this baby for 40 bucks on CL. Was in a family for 50 years according to the original owner.
Attachment 125923
I put it on a temp stand to see if it ran and WoW. The more I played with it the more I liked it. It uses all the blades (3" to 6 1/2" ) ever made and is smooth as can be while running. I haven't tried yet but I bet it would take a piece of band saw blade up to 1/4" . They don't make em like they used to and after a little restore work I am proud of the purchase.
Kind of like the razors we love so much. Bought an old one cleaned it up and use it.
So I would say it all depends on what all you ever want to do with it. A good shop should have both but not everybody has the room or need for that. A scroll saw will do more than some would think but you have to let the tool do the work. It may take 4 times as long to cut a brass plate 1/8" thick but this particular scroll saw it will do it. Maybe thicker if the band saw blade works out.
that is a nice machine,all cast iron,the new stuff from china is crap.JMOQuote:
Originally Posted by 10Pups
i recently acquired a bansaw , i was thinking scroll or ban like you and ended up with the ban and couldnt be more happier .. i think im running a bi/metal 18 or 20ppi blade now and it has performed well for me .. ive only cut 1/8 wood , 1" acrylic , and some antler that was about 1-1 1/4" thick x 5"-6"'s long and it has performed well .. i have the 9" benchtop .... i should have some micarta/g10 showing up soon so that will be the next test ...
Good timing on this tread, I was just trying to decide which saw I should get. I think I'll give the band saw a go first.
Good choice,Try to locate an old 14 in. american made Rockwell (see them on C.L all the time)as long as the motor and trunnions are intact they can be tottally rebuilt for 35 bux.If you want to do fine fret type work you can always run an 1/8th in. blade.Quote:
Originally Posted by jc50
Mines 40 yrs old and will far outlive me.
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b3...e/DSC01025.jpg
I agree with Pixel on the Rockwell. I have a few Rockwell power tools and they are built to last. I almost bought a band saw but have limited space right now so I will have to wait.
Oh and the scroll saw is a 1940 Sears Roebuck and Co. model # 103.0407.
The benchtop bandsaws don't have any larger footprint than your scroll saw 10pups. I hear good things about these old ones. I bought a new one, and so far as I'm concerned, it's only good for 1/16th inch balsa. :p
My comment about the bandsaw was about buying both tools. Sorry for the mix up. The footprint on my saw is probably bigger than the new one you have and even a new bandsaw. I suspect to get a good new scroll saw these days your going to have to spend about 5oo bills for a Jet or something of that sort. Dewalt makes a nice one although I would be careful buying some of their other stuff since Stanley bought them out. I have some Black and Decker tools that I bought way back before they bought out Dewalt(which became their industrial line.) I have a B&D 14"chop saw and a 7" disc grinder that can not be replaced by anything for sale these days. They won't make what people won't buy and nice tools are not cheap. Unless you find some old rusty one that somebody thinks is junk because it weights 120 lbs. and takes up too much space. :<0)
Well after debating back and forth in my head about a scroll or band I ran across a brand new Ryobi 9" band saw 79.00. This paticular hardware store that I happen to adore and love had one left out if the box special from 139.00 to 79.00. Couldn't pass that up and made my first set of acrylic scales last nite. Couldn't be anymore happier with the results.
