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What do you lap your shaptons on?
Weigh in! I am considering buying shaptons and I don't have enough yet for a full set. I could get the DGLP and a 16K or I could get a set (1k, 4k, 8k, 16k) and a D8C to lap them on until I could get the DGLP. Here is my question: What do you lap your shaptons on and how do they work if it isn't a D8C? Any advice?
Thanks!
Rob, the GDLP really does a great job on the Shaptons, but what really made me love it, was when I re-lapped my Norton 1k and the 4k/8k on it... It totally changed the feel of those stones....
I think I am going to go with the DGLP and a 16k and buy the other hones as I am able. I am still wondering what folks think of the results on a D8C.
Anyone?
-Rob
I use my GDLP but before I got it I used the D8C and it was fine. I still use the D8C to take off the corners and edges. I have a friend who is using a Norton flattening stone on his 16K and it works too but leaves a rough surface.
Well, my much publicized issues with my GDLP are known. I sent mine back for a refund. I have not received the refund yet, but I've been assured that it was sent in the mail...........
I have a D8C prior to getting the GDLP and sold it. I'm probably the only SRPer that's purchased a D8C twice.
The D8C will lap your Shaptons perfectly fine. The GDLP with its recessed areas has stiction reduction all over the D8C. It stands to reason that the unless I use a steady stream of water and lap under it with the D8C, that flat plate will lock with the stone big time.
I still think I got a bum GDLP, so I don't discourage anyone from getting one. They're an awesome lapping plate; at almost $300 smackers, that's the ONLY disadvantage IMO to that plate.
Chris L
oh i doubt that chris, everyone that has lapped a spyderco probably had to buy another one, and what is wrong with the compact lapping plate they sell for 129 dollare it should work well on all hones
Just for another data point, I used a DMT8F (600 grit) to lap my Shapton Glass Stones (16K & 30K).
For lapping, I use a the 325 side of a DMT Duosharp W8FCNB. That's the DMT with the holes. DMT DuoSharp Diamond Sharpeners The suction is reasonable and it's fairly fast.Quote:
Originally Posted by xChris
D8C works great on my Shapton starter set.
I tried to find info on the DMT website regarding the flatness of the Duosharp plates. Does anyone know whether they have any flatness claim like the metal DMT plates do?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bart
Chris L
Thanks Chris. I'll have to try that. I would think the 600 grit DMT would do a super job on a quick smooth refresh of the Shaptons.Quote:
Originally Posted by xChris
Chris L
The plastic ones with the dimples are, from my recent recollection, rated at +- 0.003" vs the steel ones at +- 0.001". Still accurate enough... these are the outside extremes remember, not the average. The Bell curve dictates that most will have less variance, but some may be towards the outside limits... and depending on quality control, there is the chance some might not meet the standards... it happens to all manufacturers... even Shapton! :roflmaoQuote:
Originally Posted by Chris L
Regards
Kaptain "Poking fun where no one has poked before" Zero
Yeah yeah, I know, I know!;)Quote:
Originally Posted by kaptain_zero
Chris L
If only DMT would lay down their pride. Shh(they believe they make sharpening stones)oh never mind the hush!
:
"DMT make a freakin grooved plate already!"
the solid mono diamonds waste alot of water or are sticky. the poly are plastic bodied; and i hate plastic stuff.
I just lucked onto an Atoma 400 last week. my straight edge says its flatter than dmt diasharp 120. I've just sat down with it this eve to lap some stones at the kitchen sink. It needs water too but with a dedicated space I could reuse that water alot without runnibg the faucet the whole time.
I never felt the need to lap my Shaptons. I have the Japanese, not for export ones ( 1.5 and 5K ).
i know they wear slow- but they check to be flat as is. im thinking of getting a 2 and 16Quote:
Originally Posted by Kees
If you're just starting out with Shaptons and can't spring for the whole kit, my suggestion is the 16k and the DGLP. The Shaptons are flattened just before and after each use. It's as much to get the steel grit out of the stone as it is to flatten them. You'll be able to see the process in the DVD we've now got in production called "Honing The Perfect Edge". Harrelson Stanley and I are shown going through the whole shapton honing and lapping process on several razors. It will be for sale on my site in two weeks.
I really believe in only using the DGLP for the Shaptons. They may be fine for very fine waterstones such as coticules and eschers but not for ceramic hones like a Swaty. Personally, I use them only for the Shaptons and that's what I recommend. The Shapton system is just that. A system. Produces great results.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sicboater
A friend of mine is a hone junkie and a scientist in the field of polymers. He has the whole Shapton setup, glasstones, GDLP with the holders and base. He likes them very much. So he was talking with Harrellson Stanley and was told that the abrasive in the stones is in a clay held together by a polymer resin. The polymer changes over time so the stones should be lapped before each use allowing for that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard
How long it takes before the change in the polymer could have an effect significant enough to compromise the accuracy of the honing I don't know. As I said my friend is a scientist in the field of polymers so he knows what he is talking about and he says that Harrellson is correct.
I know that when I check my stones with my Starret straight edge before I hone they have appeared to be flat. OTOH, if I draw a pencil grid and hit them with the GDLP it does show a variance. Also I can feel a difference in the razor on the hone with a freshly flattened stone. It doesn't take much material and only a half a minute if I lap before each session. I don't bother to lap afterwards, I just wash and dry the stone.
I am looking forward to the video Howard mentioned. I am eager to see it as I hear that Harrellson is a honemiester extradonaire.
I own and use a 3K,6K,8K and 16K Shapton Hones. I agree with JimmyH-AD. I too had the privilege to have a friendly conversation with gentleman he mentioned, and learned a great deal about the Shapton's hones.
By monitoring the surface of my 16K hone, I noticed it was NOT flat and purchased the DGLP. The fact is the Shapton's are indeed a well engineered "system" and a critical-but unfortunately relatively expensive part of that system is the DGLP. After wittnessing firsthand the change in the surface shape of my 16K, it was necessary to lap the hone.So why not do what Shapton recommends:shrug:
I have to qualify my response by stating that I have never used the DGLP so really can't compare but I use a D8C to lap all my stones including a 16k Shapton.Quote:
Originally Posted by sicboater
On the 16k I have tried using just the D8C and doing a second lap using my Norton 4k to see if it made a difference...and I can't really see any difference when honing a razor and examining the edge under a microscope.
So to make a short story long...save the bucks and get the DMT.