Just to add, I have used my 1" X 30" belt sander on blades I needed to remove metal on to get to a decent edge that had no faults, like chips and pitting. I used a piece of aluminum metal I saved from one of the liners of a coffee can lid that is like extra heavy aluminum foil. I put it on the spine and then secure it with a very small piece of electrical tape. That way at the 800 and 1000 grit level I am actually getting at the edge and not doing anthing to the spine. And, no, it's not hot, nor even warm. I have my finger against the blade not for pressure but to provide steadiness as I quicly move the blade across the belt. Remains cool to the touch.
At that point, if I switch to the 1" x 30" belt and power strop it on both sides I remove the metal spine protector. I always notice that there is no flat bevel, like what you see on honing flat against the hone, but a rather rounded edge. Sharp as all get out and you can whisk away hairs off your arm at that point. Then is when I start to work wtih the hones and set a flat bevel to get to a final result. So I am wondering if in the old wedge process if there was a lot of leather stropping with pastes to get to the end result, that being sharp, but at the result created a small bevel and rounded bevel to the point.?
Also, Glen, I think you are onto something with those protection sleeves used on knives. They remind me of a piece of car door "guards" that I used to cut and put into the cover of my AK-47s to keep the cover from putting a ding in the brass casing as it ejected. It slid right on and with a little glue stayed there. No more dings. Perhaps some door guards found at most auto parts store would be a cheap way to give it a try.