Warpage & Tang bevel questions

[JohnG10]

When my razor's tang is on top of the hone (or strop), then the heel of the edge is about 1/2 mm above the hone (which has been lapped flat).

Also, the razor appears visually straight, but must have a very slight warp, since honing it with a straight or 30 degree X stroke (with no rolling motions) causes the bevel to be wider at the heel and toe than in the center.

So, my first question is: On a razor with no warpage, does the setting the tang on the hone raise the heel's edge off the stone?

Second question: I see the some of the vintage razors (like the Torrey's) have a bevel on the bottom edge of the tang. Does this prevent the issue and allow razors with a tiny warp to be honed using a straight or 30 degree X stroke rather than a rolling stroke ?

Final question: Are the Dovo carbon blades soft enough for me to bend it sideways a tiny bit to remove the slight warp - or will any bending result in a cracked blade ?

Thanks.

[Bill S]

I can only help you with your last question. Don't do it. While you might get some deflection (very minimal) out of the tang you will get no warning before it breaks.

[Utopian]

I don't understand why you want the tang on the hone or strop in the first place. The tang should not have any contact with the hone or strop.

[hi_bud_gl]

Final question: Are the Dovo carbon blades soft enough for me to bend it sideways a tiny bit to remove the slight warp - or will any bending result in a cracked blade ?

Thanks.

Bill is right DON'T DO IT.
Now first part of your question.
when you hone or strop your tank doesn't touch hone or strop.
if you want to make sure your blade warped or not.
Put down your blade on the flat surface exact location should be 1 shoulder and rest of the blade.
if it is flat you are good to go.
this is for blade with shoulder.
shoulder less is different story.
hope this helps

[JohnG10]

Thanks for the advice to not try any bending.

Here's why the tang ends up on the hone or strop:
1. During stropping: I sometimes miss a little so that 2-3 mm's of the tang is on the strop. I can feel this, and subconsciously move the tang farther from the edge of the strop. Unfortunately, this results in my heel not being stropped as much as the rest of the blade.

2. During honing: I would like the heel to stay on the hone longer during the X stroke. (Since the tang can't be past the corner of the stone, the heel comes off the stone quickly.)

So, is it normal for the heel to lift off the hone if 1/4-1/2 of the tang ends up on top of the stone ? Or is this happening only because of the small warpage in my blade ? If it's not due to warpage - will a bevelled tang (like the Torrey's) or a shoulderless grind allow the heel to set flat with the tang on the hone ?

I'm asking because I need a 2nd blade, and need to know if I need one with a beveled tang, or a shoulderless grind, or just one with less warpage.

Thanks.

[hi_bud_gl]

2. During honing: I would like the heel to stay on the hone longer during the X stroke. (Since the tang can't be past the corner of the stone, the heel comes off the stone quickly.)


Thanks.

This has been discussed a lot.
if this bothers you please keep blade heel forward 45 degree and your blades heel will not come off quickly.
try it and you will see.
hope this helps.

in case if you have narrow stone then your angle may not be 45 but 120 etc.
it is easy to change to keep the heel on the hone longer.

[onimaru55]

I don't understand why you want the tang on the hone or strop in the first place. The tang should not have any contact with the hone or strop.

+1 The only parts of the razor that belong on the hone are the spine & edge.
Even contact with the stabiliser will lift the heel off the edge.