I want to try to disinfect my blade be detaching it from the handle/scales (whatever its called). Should I use a special tool or is anything good to get the pins off?
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I want to try to disinfect my blade be detaching it from the handle/scales (whatever its called). Should I use a special tool or is anything good to get the pins off?
Mathew,
There are a number of ways to do this depending on the pins, condition of the scales etc.. Here's a link that should be very helpful.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html
You'll find lots of posts in the workshop forum pertaining to this, and also videos in this thread.
Videos
However, its not always necessary to remove the scales, but I understand your concern. You can clean and disinfect without removing them. I've never removed the scales to clean mine.
Howard :)
Seems like a big step just for cleaning... But, I use Flush-Cutters mostly. You can also put a layer of electrical tape around then use a file to take the pin down to the washers then work them apart. I have also free-handed a drill to take them off as I didn't have a drill press at the time.
A 1/16" Punch or Similar works to gently ease the pin out once you've removed the mushroom from one side... Go slowly/gently and take your time to avoid accidents.
However, if it is just for cleaning... Toothbrush and Comet/similar then gently scrub away... Rubbing Alcohol will kill pretty much anything but won't oxidize... Clorox+H2O at a 3-5ppm (approx 1-2 capfuls per gallon) will kill and oxidize everything except, occasionally, things protected by a keratinized layer (just remember strength/quality of Clorox/Chlorine is affected by age and degrades in sunlight) but soak for a few minutes for maximum effectiveness... Use a strip of Dental Floss soaked in Clorox/Chlorine to get in and personal with the pivot... Barbicide works well but the blue may stain scales.
Best of luck and have fun!!
Shawn
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Before you go dipping a razor in chlorine solutions, please be aware that a too strong solution of chlorine will etch steel almost immediately. It's one of many techniques used to artificially age steels.
I personally use 91% rubbing alcohol.
and no, removing the scales is not how most folks clean them up. It's very easy to break or scratch/mar the scales or upset the centering if you have no experience or aren't handy with tools. Plus you'll need a replacement pin and washers...and a teeny peeny hammer. :p
Oh ok guys thanks for the info. I used Hydrocide and dipped it in and left it for about 40 minutes. How would I know if I etched or messed up my blade? Ill post pics and show you guys.
Uh, I'm not sure what hydrocide is. But, if your blade shows signs of discoloration, pitting, especially on the edge....or other indications of rust...I'd be concerned.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathew
Since you've given it a 40 minute soak.....I'd give it a thorough rinse of hot water to remove any lingering chemical residue and check it often to see what's going on. Hopefully nothing!!
I use high pressure air to blow out and clean the pivot and other hard to reach areas. Even blowing with your own breath will help to displace liquid from the pivot.
:gl:
Howard :)
The two ways I get pins out is to either cut the head off one side with flush cutters and then knock it out with a fine hole punch or to file the head off the pin on one side taking care not to scratch the scales and then knock the pin out.
Matthew,
If you are going to use flush-cutters, please wear eye-protection : and if possible cover the work and hands with a towel.
I was de-pinning a French made razor some years ago using flush-cutters; what I didn't know was that the pin was made of steel, and one of the tips of the flush cutter broke off, and seriously scratched my safety glasses. Had I not been wearing eye protection, I shudder to think what would have happened if that shard of steel went into my eye :(
Have fun !
Best regards
Russ
Attachment 160550Attachment 160551Attachment 160548Attachment 160549
Well those are the pictures I promise I uploaded. Like I said I used a product like barbacide and didn't rinse it with water after. As you can see the inside of that part that says stainless steel has some black powder of some sort. For the most part does this look clean enough to put a blade in it and start shaving? Or should I just do a quick clean up again and go?
Just so you know, the replies above assumed that you had a traditional straight razor whereas you have a shavette-type razor. They are different beasts, and so procedures for care/repair are also different.
There is no need to remove any part of that razor IMHO. Is it all steel? If it is, perhaps boiling it in water will help remove any residue and/or other accumulated gunk.
What the hell is that thang? :dropjaw:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathew
Yeah, disregard all posts prior to your photo reveal. They were about something entirely different.
I'm out, i have zero experience with those contraptions.
good luck.
Yes I'm assuming its all steel accept for the scales of course. Alright Ill try that I'm open to any methods.
Sorry I missed the fact it had scales that were something other than metal. I see them now in your hand. Boiling may not be the best option depending on their material. I had assumed it was all metal when I suggested that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mathew
But there are option for cleaning inside scales:
- you can usually get in there with a q-tip or even some cloth. Just be careful not to force it as scales can crack and break very easily.
- in tight spots: dental floss and some cleaner or polish can really help too.
Ditto what WadePatton said in his last post above... I thought we were speaking about a SR like the one pictured on the SRP Front Page at the Top.
Your Razor is very cool Matthew! I have never seen anything like it and would love to see pics of it lying flat on a table and with a blade loaded... Just for curiosity sake!
+1 on the Q-Tip suggestion and I'll add you can smash the tips flat with a pair of pliers, hammer, etc and then it will really get in spots like that slot better... You can even remove all the cotton then whittle the rolled cardboard to a point to get deep in the angles. I don't know what they are called but the Wooden Cuticle Tools that have a spiked end and an oblique/flat/spadish end would work great as well. You can also use toothpaste as a polish loading it onto the cotton of the Q-Tip/Cotton Swab.
Lastly, just to clarify, ppm is Parts Per Million so the chlorine concentraion I was speaking of before is 5 drops Clorox/Chlorine to a 'million' drops water... The 3-5ppm is what is required for Public Pools to remain open and will sanitize as well as oxidize really anything you are likely to be concerned about. People tend to think the concentration must be higher but it does not for Pools. And, pools have stainless steel handrails as well as ladders and misc other metal parts which eventually have issues with corrosion but it takes a very, very long time... For people really concerned about sanitizing this is a super cheap and effective method.
Very cool project you have there! Have fun with it and post more pics when you are done so we can all see the results.
Shawn
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I think if you used "hydrocide" and it's a similar product to "Barbacide"? and assuming you read the directions. Barbacide is cut with water I think it's 2 oz. to 32 oz of water? don't quote me on that one....give it a 10 minute soak. Pull it out of the solution and let it air dry. Then rinse it off with water. I would use a metal polish to make it shine. Honestly it uses a disposable blade, I would make sure the holder is clean and put a new blade in it and shave...
I think that's a Parker replaceable blade "Straight Barber's Razor", or possibly a copy of one; the crossed arrows within a circle is a Parker symbol. Here's a photo of a current SR1 model:Quote:
Originally Posted by WadePatton
Attachment 160688
Am I seeing that correctly? A hollow pivot "pin"? If you still want to take that out I'd drill it and then replace with tubing if i could source the right diameter or a solid pin as "normal" old-timey razors use. Being hollow makes it a simple operation once you figger out how to keep it from spinning. Heck a pop-rivet could work for replacement. If you haven't drilled out rivets before, you might practice on some.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dzanda
But I wouldn't dink with it unless i was replacing the scales and then one could bush/fill the blade hole and use traditional pins/washers. I like epoxy to resize holes in old blades as it reduces h20 access to inaccessible places. [/drift]
