Thread: What can I remove the pins off the scales with?

I want to try to disinfect my blade be detaching it from the handle/scales (whatever its called). Should I use a special tool or is anything good to get the pins off?

Mathew,

There are a number of ways to do this depending on the pins, condition of the scales etc.. Here's a link that should be very helpful.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

You'll find lots of posts in the workshop forum pertaining to this, and also videos in this thread.

Videos

However, its not always necessary to remove the scales, but I understand your concern. You can clean and disinfect without removing them. I've never removed the scales to clean mine.

Howard

Seems like a big step just for cleaning... But, I use Flush-Cutters mostly. You can also put a layer of electrical tape around then use a file to take the pin down to the washers then work them apart. I have also free-handed a drill to take them off as I didn't have a drill press at the time.

A 1/16" Punch or Similar works to gently ease the pin out once you've removed the mushroom from one side... Go slowly/gently and take your time to avoid accidents.

However, if it is just for cleaning... Toothbrush and Comet/similar then gently scrub away... Rubbing Alcohol will kill pretty much anything but won't oxidize... Clorox+H2O at a 3-5ppm (approx 1-2 capfuls per gallon) will kill and oxidize everything except, occasionally, things protected by a keratinized layer (just remember strength/quality of Clorox/Chlorine is affected by age and degrades in sunlight) but soak for a few minutes for maximum effectiveness... Use a strip of Dental Floss soaked in Clorox/Chlorine to get in and personal with the pivot... Barbicide works well but the blue may stain scales.

Best of luck and have fun!!

Shawn
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Before you go dipping a razor in chlorine solutions, please be aware that a too strong solution of chlorine will etch steel almost immediately. It's one of many techniques used to artificially age steels.

I personally use 91% rubbing alcohol.

and no, removing the scales is not how most folks clean them up. It's very easy to break or scratch/mar the scales or upset the centering if you have no experience or aren't handy with tools. Plus you'll need a replacement pin and washers...and a teeny peeny hammer.

Oh ok guys thanks for the info. I used Hydrocide and dipped it in and left it for about 40 minutes. How would I know if I etched or messed up my blade? Ill post pics and show you guys.

Originally Posted by Mathew

Oh ok guys thanks for the info. I used Hydrocide and dipped it in and left it for about 40 minutes. How would I know if I etched or messed up my blade? Ill post pics and show you guys.

Uh, I'm not sure what hydrocide is. But, if your blade shows signs of discoloration, pitting, especially on the edge....or other indications of rust...I'd be concerned.

Since you've given it a 40 minute soak.....I'd give it a thorough rinse of hot water to remove any lingering chemical residue and check it often to see what's going on. Hopefully nothing!!

I use high pressure air to blow out and clean the pivot and other hard to reach areas. Even blowing with your own breath will help to displace liquid from the pivot.



Howard

The two ways I get pins out is to either cut the head off one side with flush cutters and then knock it out with a fine hole punch or to file the head off the pin on one side taking care not to scratch the scales and then knock the pin out.

Matthew,

If you are going to use flush-cutters, please wear eye-protection : and if possible cover the work and hands with a towel.

I was de-pinning a French made razor some years ago using flush-cutters; what I didn't know was that the pin was made of steel, and one of the tips of the flush cutter broke off, and seriously scratched my safety glasses. Had I not been wearing eye protection, I shudder to think what would have happened if that shard of steel went into my eye

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ

Well those are the pictures I promise I uploaded. Like I said I used a product like barbacide and didn't rinse it with water after. As you can see the inside of that part that says stainless steel has some black powder of some sort. For the most part does this look clean enough to put a blade in it and start shaving? Or should I just do a quick clean up again and go?

Just so you know, the replies above assumed that you had a traditional straight razor whereas you have a shavette-type razor. They are different beasts, and so procedures for care/repair are also different.

There is no need to remove any part of that razor IMHO. Is it all steel? If it is, perhaps boiling it in water will help remove any residue and/or other accumulated gunk.