Razor drag question

Hey guys, I've been lurking for a while trying to learn from everyone's past experiences, but I finally decided to jump in and ask my question. I've recently got my first used straight and while I'm going slow doing just part of my shave for now, I really wonder if this razor is as sharp as it should be. I do all the usual face prep...hot water, hot towel, pre shave sometimes, have several soaps, glycerin and tallow based varieties, pay attention to proper angle, stretch my skin, and still my straight has noticeably more drag and sticks in my stubble much more than my Parker DE or Mach 3. Much more than a 24hr growth is pretty sketchy on the first pass. I'll also add that I have a baby face and a rather soft beard compaired to some men.

I got the razor from a well known used razor source "shave ready", but I've of course been stropping it before each use about 40-50 strokes. Having never used a straight before I'm not sure if this is what it's supposed to feel like or not. I do have a balsa wood hone treated with .3 and .1 paste. One last thing that I've noticed is that my face/skin feels rough when I use the straight and it feels slick and smooth when I used my Mach 3 or Parker DE. Do you guys think my razor needs a better edge put on it?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Have you tried any of the usual tests like Hanging Hair Test or letting the blade pop your arm hairs without touching your skin? Of course the decisive thing is how it shaves, but the tests can give quite a hint. Does the blade grab when you lightly run your wet thumb along the edge. That test isn't really good for a shave ready though, because you can dull the edge.

If nothing else helps, strop on the .1 paste for maybe 7 times and then leather strop it for maybe 50.

Some say that a shave ready razor will leave your cheek smooth with one wtg pass. Mine don't but they do in three passes. Still, you can try that for a test too. Check your stropping technique. You can dull a razor doing it wrong.

Good Luck,
Old Salt

Yes, I've tried the Hanging hair test and it seems to pass, but there are just so many variables involved with that test...the hair used, the speed at which you lower it on to the blade, how close you hold it to the blade, etc. I've also done the arm hair test letting the razor float through the hair. My arm hair is quite soft so it passes right through most of it without cutting, but does cut about 50% of my leg hairs. This reminds me of another potential issue with the razor that I forgot to ask about. Due to use and or repair the cutting edge is not flat. It's curved, a smiley if you will. With this shape when you strop the razor both ends don't really touch the strop so the sharpness along the edge must be rather inconsistent at best. I've considered getting a Parker shavette to see what it feels like on my face compared to this particular straight.

Your lather can have an impact on how the razor glides. You might try a good quality cream as I found creams easier to lather and a bit more slippery than the soaps I have. Your blade angle can also be a factor. Try increasing/decreasing the angle to see if it makes any difference. It may be that your edge is sharp but not smooth. Micro chipping of the edge can produce the sticky feel you describe. I also have a shavette I used for comparison but keep in mind they do shave differently than a regular SR.

I can't help but wonder, are you comparing how your skin feels after a single wtg pass to a single wtg pass. It could be that you whiskers are laying against your skin and are not being taken very short while doing a with the grain pass. Trying a small test of across the grain might prove or disprove that, also checking you double edge shave while shaving and observing how the different passes are working on your whiskers. All of our whisker growth patterns tend to be a little different so a refined technique will vary lot from shaver to shaver. Don't be afraid to try different things and I'm with John 3126 on the possibility that your lather may be too dry for a straight.

Yes, I am indeed comparing apples to apples whether that be number of passes of direction of passes. Its not my whiskers that I'm saying is rough afterward. Its the surface of my skin that is abraded more with the straight than my other razors, regardless of direction or number of passes. This is why I'm wondering if the edge of my straight was prepared with something around only 6k and isn't as smooth as my DE or Mach3. It cuts, but isn't comfortable.

Welcome to SRP Hambone13!

I was initially asking myself the same question that Shaun brought up in comparing apples to apples. Moot, now you've answered that.

I was in your boat as well. I bought a razor that wasn't ready to shave, though it had been said Shave Ready. I had some nasty shaves, but I fought through them. I broke down and sent it out to Lynn for a pro-hone. Something along the lines of "it must have been a real uncomfortable shaver" was said.

I got that one back, muuuuuch sharper. But, I still had some uncomfortable results when done. Why? For me, it came down to lack of attention to the pressure.... But that was further down the road than you are ATM.

You're heading in the right direction. I assure you that if you stick to it, you will be wondering how you ever put that M***3 to your face.

Kind Regards,

Assuming that the edge is sharp but not smooth, do you guys think the balsa wood hone with .3 and .1 paste is enough to polish it up, or would it require going back to an actual stone?

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Originally Posted by Hambone13

Assuming that the edge is sharp but not smooth, do you guys think the balsa wood hone with .3 and .1 paste is enough to polish it up, or would it require going back to an actual stone?

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That's kind of a tough one. The reason I say that is when I first started, I had only one razor. I had nothing to compare it too, so, essentially, I had no real idea whether it was shave ready or not.

Maybe, posting a set of pics of the edge might help a bit. Also, have you done the pin test on the edge to make sure the edge hasn't rolled during stropping?

The balso wood hone with paste. It all depends on at what state the edge is currently it. I'll explain it this way. Let's say I've honed up the 3K level. I then go to the paste. I'm not going to get a mirror shine. Why? The razor would have to go higher up the hone progression where the scratch patterns would get finer and finer until finally when one is finished honing, one could go to the pasted strop before leather stropping.

So, albeit circuitously, it brings me back to questioning whether the razor is shave ready. If it were me, the nagging doubt alone was enough for me to break down and send it out. I went back to the M***3 for a few days. No big deal. I still got to practice stropping with a dull object, face prep and lathering in the meantime.

One more thing: specify in your locale in what area in OK you are located. There are alot of mentors here and the likelihood is that there is someone close by.

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Originally Posted by Hambone13

Assuming that the edge is sharp but not smooth, do you guys think the balsa wood hone with .3 and .1 paste is enough to polish it up, or would it require going back to an actual stone?

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In my case I reset the bevel on a 1K then worked back up to the 12K. This razor did not like the Arkansas I used the first time around but took a beautiful edge on the synthetics.

Just a simple question. How are your angles. Nothing catches an edge on whiskers like too high an angle. Before going to the balsa or any other sharpening process I'd suggest eliminating all potential prep, lather & technique contributors. If this doesn't solve the problem try the balsa. If that doesn't do it then send it out to be honed again. This time when it comes back don't strop it before you use it. That way you'll have a starting point to determine future sharpening needs.

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Originally Posted by Hambone13

*SNIP*
This reminds me of another potential issue with the razor that I forgot to ask about. Due to use and or repair the cutting edge is not flat. It's curved, a smiley if you will. With this shape when you strop the razor both ends don't really touch the strop so the sharpness along the edge must be rather inconsistent at best.

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I'm no expert, but I really don't think that your razor's smile should interfere with stropping it. After all, many quality razors are intentionally made with smiles!

So I'm perplexed when you say that the edge isn't consistently touching the strop. If the blade is laying FLAT on the strop as it should be, I can think of only a few situations where there wouldn't be even contact:

• There's a problem with the strop. The strop is either cupped, or the opposite (I can't recall the term). This is more likely with wider, and/or thinner strops.The strop should be flat across it's width. Try stropping with the strop laying flat on a table (near the table's edge).
• There's a problem with the blade, i.e., the blade is bent. Try sighting down the length of the spine and edge to see if they're not straight.
• Your stropping mechanics are causing the problem. As a newb myself, this is what I'd suspect. Scrutinize your technique, and slow down to a very methodical pace.

There are no doubt other possibilities, but these are the ones that immediately came mind.

Good luck, and hang in there!

Since you are a noob and have been learning to strop while learning to shave, I put my money on the razor is beyond what CrOx will help. Probably needs a to see a hone.

I keep ending up back here,
you say a well known used razor source?
I am going to ask:
Well known?
or
Reputable?

I would also find a soap you like and stick with it for a bit while you get over the hump so to speak.
You say you have been stropping which is needed, did you do this prior to the first shave?

The first things that come to mind for me are all of the technique issues, Angle, pressure, Prep, good Lather, Stropping......

I know you state you pay attention to the angle but what and or how are you determining it?

If the edge is in question I would be happy to check it out

but I know we have some great people closer to you,

a bit of hands on would set you much farther forward than I can from here.

Pat

From your description it sounds like it is still sharp enough for shaving. Try upping the strop count to the 50 to 60 mark. Most of us start out with rough shaves. We use incorrect pressure and and and get poor results and irritation. These are the 2 most important factors for the actual shave. 3 months of shaving is pretty common to get decent with a straight. Touching the blade up on the balsa wont hurt so try that just go slow and light. Good luck

I had the same issue for some time. True, with practice, it will be better. There is a lot to your technique. I found that with a straight, you actually have to CUT the whiskers, somewhat similarly than when you cut something with a knife. It is a completely different technique that you use with ANY OTHER kind of razor. Together with the North-South movement, you must move the straight East-West at the same time. If this sounds weird, you can try the good old North-South movement keeping the razor not horizontal, but the point pointing somewhat downwards and the heel somewhat upwards. See if this helps with the quality of your shave...