Beginners Tips: December 2014

[Obie]

I wanted to shave with the straight razor in my early twenties, but life got in the way and I did not start until my early sixties. When you start, then, does not matter as long as you do. Once you experience the pleasure of straight razor shaving, I doubt you’ll return to your old ways.

Whatever you do, don’t start on the cheap, because your results will reflect that. Every new venture has an initial cost and straight razor shaving is no different. Purchasing a low quality razor and strop to save a few extra dollars most likely will result in a cheap shave. It is also a waste of money, to me, anyway. Spend the money and give yourself a good start.

What’s more, see what you buy. Ordering shave gear without seeing it just because it is cheap is no bargain in the end, because with sight-unseen, you don’t know what you get. Also, stay off eBay until you know your way around the straight razor world. eBay is notorious for lofty descriptions. Not only that, but almost every straight razor is noted as shave ready, when it is far from it.

In the beginning, it is temping to buy one razor after another. Don’t. Take your time buying razors, because your taste will change and the razor you love today you might not tomorrow — Start with a 4/8, 5/8 or 6/8, all ideal blade sizes for beginners. Is it not a good idea to experiment with different blades? Yes, of course, experiment with as many different razors as you reasonably can. Slowly, though, and methodically, as you give yourself time to evaluate your taste while honing your skill.

Save some of the money for a good strop. A cheap strop that pretends to have something that looks like leather is not much of a bargain. A quality strop, something that will improve with age and possibly find a permanent home in your shave den, need not be expensive. You don’t need a Kanoyama to start with, but there are plenty of quality strops reasonably priced.

What if I cut the strop, you might ask? Well, what if you don’t? Why compromise a good start by struggling with a useless strop? Sure, you can strop on a variety of objects, such as a rolled newspaper, palm of your hand, blue jeans, and so on, but why bother with that? Get a real strop for your first. Slow down and pay attention. A few nicks in the strop along the edges are innocent, and you can smooth them by sanding. If you put a big gash in the strop and render it useless, buy another one. Remember, that is part of the learning curve.

Yes, stropping properly takes skill and practice. The strop is essential to the straight razor experience. That’s why you should not dismiss it as something minor, or a luxury. The strop is more than that; it is your straight razor’s friend. Learn to strop and learn it well. Strop before each shave. The strop does not sharpen your blade; rather, it reconstructs it after the previous shave.

I strop the way the old time barbers did: the blade at an angle, with the toe leading, and then returning with the heel leading. This also gives me the X-pattern automatically. I use about six or seven inches of length on the strop, because this way I can manipulate the blade between the thumb and the index finger easily, thus experiencing smooth and seamless strokes. As a rule, my stropping count is 30 strokes on linen and 60 on leather.

Leave the honing for later. There is plenty of time for that — I waited several years. In the beginning, honing your skill with the razor and the strop take precedent over honing. During the time I waited, I continued studying stones and honing. I watched quality videos, and asked questions. In time, with practice that included some mistakes, I finally sat with three honing giants: Lynn, Randy and Sham.

Find a teacher and learn. I have been lucky to learn honing from the masters, all three generous with their knowledge and willingness to share. Most of all, I am grateful to the noble Lynn Abrams, for he has taught me much of what I know about straight razors, shaving, stropping and honing.

[BobH]

If I can add to Obie's excellent post, I would a do your due diligence before purchasing a wet shaving product. There are plenty of reviews on the net and the forum here has plenty of members to answer any questions that may arise from doing your due diligence.

I would like to mention the importance of being able to generate a good lather which goes a long way to getting a comfortable shave. Get a good quality shave brush from a known reputable maker. It could be a $10 Omega boar brush or a $200+ badger brush, they both will work if you take the time to learn how to use them. Again get one quality brush learn how to use it before trying others. Buy one quality soap and again it could be anything from Arko to MdC. The idea is to keep it simple and learn to use your single quality brush in combination with your single quality soap/cream without adding the variables of multiple brushes, soaps and creams. Once you can do that expand from there because variety is always fun.

Bob

[Hirlau]

If more people took your advice Obie, I truly feel we would retain more members in this shaving community.

[AndrewJM]

Great post Obie

I agree with all you have said...

If I may add my thoughts to your post...

"Spend the money and give yourself a good start."... This is excellent advice! From my 1 year experience researching razors for use & collection, I would also recommend choosing a brand that is sought after ie Wade Butcher, Joseph rogers, Heljestrand etc. Not because they shave better than other good (and likely cheaper) razors, but it is much easier to sell for a price close to (whether it be higher or lower) than you paid. I see many fine razors of lesser known brands sell for less than their worth (and sometimes more) simply due to the lower number of active searchers/buyers. I would also recommend not purchasing a new razor unless you are willing to commit to giving it a fair go and using for a few months... like buying a car one tends to lose value due to depreciation. The exception to this is if buying new from a reputable seller/honemeister who will also hone it for you. You may lose 10-30% depreciation but benefit more than the monetary loss due to having a sharp razor that allows you to remove that variable from the many challenges or other variables when starting straight razor shaving, and knowing you have a good product from a knowledgeable seller who has your best interest at heart.

"Find a teacher and learn"... Also excellent advice... I wouldn't be where I am or enjoy the pursuit as much as I do without the help from some great local members sharing their knowledge and experience.

"Leave the honing for later". Unless you have some spare cash to throw around, I strongly agree with this. Soon after starting I bought 2 smaller Eschers, and shortly after a large coticule. I wish I could go back in time and undo that mistake. Was interesting to try, but should have waited. After trying some honing, I realise I should have just bought the norton 4/8k or similar and a great bevel setter (I bought the Chosera 1k and have no regrets what-so-ever). I get a great edge from Norton 4/8k, and realistically, the expensive finishers add so little value to my shave due to my lack of experience/technique. And for the sake of a few $, just send razors to Lynn, Glen, Oz or similar, so you know you are getting a great edge until you know you will be straight shaving for the rest of your life and purchasing hones is warranted (if you take the time to learn, I suspect this may the case)

Finally, take time to learn from this site. I spend quite a bit of my spare time on this forum, and the knowledge shared certainly helps me improve, even after 1 year. I was lucky living in Australia, as I had a 2-3 week wait before my first razor arrived, affording me enough time to research technique etc before putting metal to skin. I am glad I had this time otherwise my first experiences may not have been so favourable.

[Grazor]

A great read Obie, "Once you experience the pleasure of straight razor shaving, I doubt you’ll return to your old ways." So true, you go from your old ways to an even older way. I remember thinking years ago it must have been a terrible way to shave, but it is the exact opposite.

[RobinK]

Dear Obie,

That is one of the most brilliant posts I have read here in many years. Short, but succinct. For which many thanks.

Dear beginners,

Please listen to Obie. Get quality. Stick with one product. Do not get yourselves fooled by seemingly great offers, or great brand names. Get quality - it will pay off eventually. A $100 strop, or a $150 brush, may seem expensive in the beginning, but they will service you for many, many years.

Again, thank you very much for being the voice of reason, Obie.

Kind regards,
Robin

[Obie]

Robin,

Bless your hear, my dear friend. Thank you.

[lz6]

Very well said Obie and perfect advice for our new members. Thank you.

[Phrank]

Obie - excellent article!

I agree with your advice about taking one's time, starting within a certain size range of straight razor, and learning the fundamentals before venturing off into collecting and honing.

I especially like how you stressed the importance of a good strop and stropping itself. Explaining what the strop is used for and what it does, that nicking it isn't the end of the world, the position of the razor on the strop, and a suggestion for the number of linen and leather laps on the strop is great advice. The importance of stropping and learning the proper technique is fundamental to success in this hobby, and it's importance can't be stressed enough.

Thanks for the great read!

[tab]

I fully subscribed to the approach outlined above.
I'd been through the DE & SE RAD process and much of that included trying a lot of what I considered substandard hardware.
I didn't know this at the time, but did as I moved forward with my recent straight razor purchases.

In all honesty, making solid although possibly more expensive purchases up-front will most likely save time in the long run.