Thread: Questions I'd like to ask before getting my first straight razor

Hello everyone, I am completely new to straight razor shaving, before getting my first straight razor, I do have a couple of questions which I couldn't get answers online and wish the experienced shavers here would be kind enough to help me out.

I did a little search on the net about the advantages of straight razor shaving, some article said disposable blades pull up whiskers a little before cut, thus cause skin irritation, razor burn, redness and so on, why is it so? Does the same apply to DE blades used on a safety razor, or even on a Dovo Shavette?

I use both cartridge and safety razor to shave, and now hoping to get a Dovo straight razor. I just wonder how people grade these razors. Really wish to know so that I can decide which model I want to try. I am not talking about fancy features like gold plated ones, or luxurious horn handles, or super vintage ones with historical significance, but only for the sake of a quality shave.

And it's been like a myth to me that many say straight razors manufactured some years ago perform better than those produced today, even they came from the same brand. I wonder what makes the difference. The materials has changed? The way they forge them changed?

Seems I have asked a lot of questions, thanks for your time reading them.

Hello and welcome to the forum.

I believe that "skin irritation, razor burn, redness and so" are caused by other things than the razor used. Things like poor lather, too much pressure on the blade, wrong angle on the blade and a dull blade to name a few.

In modern production straight razors the price differences between different models of the same make reflects how fancy the razor looks not the quality of the blade. So the basic model in any line should shave as well as a more expensive model in the same line you just don't have the bling effect.

A basic model Dovo with a shave ready edge should provide a quality shave. There is much more that goes into getting a quality shave than just the razor. You need to learn the proper technique and with a straight razor that is a fairly long learning curve to accomplish.

I only have one new made straight razor and the rest are vintage blades. They all give a close comfortable shave if the edge is good and I do my part correctly. I don't see much difference between new and vintage from a reputable maker.

If you have not already done so I suggest you read the Library section Straight Razor Place Library - Straight Razor Place Library . It will likely give you a lot of answers to some questions you have.

Bob

Probable reasons disposables cause irritation & the likes:

They (multi blade versions) do pull the hair a smidge before cutting it. This is achieved with the blades being positioned so close together.

Razor burn from disposables is usually from too much friction (poor lather/goo in a can), or too much pressure. The modern shaving contraptions are so idiot proofed that is is difficult to nick yourself, and impossible to really cut yourself like you can with a DE or SR. They employ guards & wires to keep the blade edge from taking a bite out of crime. As a result, most folks really push the razor against their skin. That will cause good enough razor burn that cold water stings like the dickens. (Don't ask me how I know this.)

I, too, found this forum before I bought my first SR. I started implementing what I read immediately, more than a month before getting my SR. The first thing to improve was the razor burn, because "no pressure" seemed to be a universal truth.

Stopping before I ramble. Hope this helps!

With the multi blade cartridges, they pull your whiskers up and then cut the hair at a point that would have normally been below the skin. This in turn can and usually does cause ingrown hairs and red bumps. Also, depending on the cartridge, they could have from 2 (if your old school) to 5 or 6 blades. So think about it like this. Every swipe with a 6 bladed cartridge is like 6 passes with a straight or safety. I only do three passes with my straight. With the Grain (WTG), Across the Grain (XTG), and Against the Grain (ATG). If I were to try to do all three directions with a 6 bladed razor that would be 18 passes equivalent. I don't care who you are, 18 passes is going to mess you face up unless your leather face but hey thats probably how he got his leather face.

A shavette and a safety razor use the same blades so your going to get the same shave its just a different technique used so that might affect the quality in shave as you get used to a new type. But as you get proficient in both you really shouldn't notice a difference unless your using two different types of blades. However they are both only single bladed systems so no they shouldn't inherently cause irritation like cartridges do. Meaning your only going to get irritation if your technique is bad and you choose blades your skin doesn't agree with.

As for getting a Dovo. Its really up to you. They all shave about the same. Some have some designs that make it easier to hone and strop like the shoulderless designs but usually more expensive. I would say get whatever strikes your fancy that you can afford. But don't just look at Dovo either. There are other manufacturers still in the straight razor game.

Lastly I would say the myth is true. Don't know why exactly but I would guess that because there isn't a huge demand for straight razors now like there used to be. So when you have low demand you have to adjust your profit margins to make the most money off of what you do sell yet still maintain some kind of quality. Therefore maybe they cut cost at the refinery and don't buy the best steel they can like they used to, or maybe they cut it at the forging steps and don't put as much effort into their work like they used to. Or maybe the cut it at the grinding stage and aren't as precise as they used to be to save time. Or maybe they do it at all three stages. I don't really know if this actually happens for a fact but its what I think. I mean they are a business not a bunch of razor nuts like we are. I will tell you though that I only own one modern made straight and its a dovo, the rest are all vintage. I haven't shaved with the dovo in at least a year. Not that it doesn't provide a great shave, it does. Its just that my vintage razors prove even better, and cheaper.

I used to shave with no prep. Rub some stuff on my face, push a razor into the skin and drag down until all the goo was gone. I would replace the razor once a week.

When I bought a straight I learned that lather from a brush, a hot towel, and NO pressure led to a much smoother shave. The early shaves however were not comfortable as I was learning how to hold a razor, how to shave with both hands, howvtobproperly stretch my skin. Once it all started coming together, it was fantastic.

Then I thought I try my hand at a safety razor and reverted back to pushing the razor into my skin. Big no no.

Good lather + good prep + sharp edge + no pressure = happy shave

You will not go wrong with a shave ready Dovo. If you are looking to SRD for your purchase, any of the brands they sell come shave ready and all are good shavers. TIs tend be a bit more forgiving maintenance wise starting out but I find them less forgiving when it comes to the shave. Ralph Austs are also very nice and something you may want to consider.

Hi and welcome. I would say that the cartridges have been explained well. The same reason that it is hard to nick yourself is the same reason I think people use so much pressure. It is hard to gey close. I used to do a 3 pass shaves with touch ups and still couldnt get as close as I do with a straight. With the shavette or de burn is caused by technique issues like pressure, angle and stretching.

Amy basic model by any of the quality new razor manufacturers should serve you well. The depate over vintage vs new could go on forever but it pays to keep in mind that everyone used to use a straight and masters in the trade oversaw and made blades day in and day out for decades and it was a thriving industry where now few of these people remain and it is small scale compared to what it was. Im sure a lot of knowledge and skills have been lost simply by not being passed on.

I am glad that I have joined this forum. Thank you for all the useful inputs. Now I am more comfortable to pick my first straight razor.

I did learn to apply "no pressure" with my safety razor, but I have to admit, when whiskers in more tricky areas won't go away in 3rd pass, I tend to apply pressure. I know I can't let that happen with a straight razor.

I use after shave product to relief my sensitive skins from razor burn, and I think I'm adding pre shave oil into the equation as well.

I use both cartridge and safety razor to shave, and now hoping to get a Dovo straight razor.

You won't go wrong wit this brand, but depending on the cost of the razor it may not be shave ready when you get it and you may have to hone it first. The quality of the blade will probably be good (I don't think Dovo put out rubbish), but depending on what you get, the scales could be cheap plastic. I got a Dov Prima with Ebony scales shat was shave ready out of the box. At $230 it probably cost me $70-$80 more than a basic model I would have to hone first, but I subsidized my purchase with a gift card I got from my job.

some article said disposable blades pull up whiskers a little before cut

Cartridge razors with multiple blades my work this way but a single blade straight razor wouldn't since it can only cut.

Really wish to know so that I can decide which model I want to try.

The main thing about a razor is the steel and the thing that influences that the most is the carbon content ( though manganese, silicon and chromium are also added in ). Silver steel (which is a fairly common tool steel) is used a lot in razors and seems to be pretty good. The difference between silver steel and carbon steel is that silver steel is carbon steel with a defined carbon content between 0.95-1.25%.

And it's been like a myth to me that many say straight razors manufactured some years ago perform better than those produced today, even they came from the same brand. I wonder what makes the difference. The materials has changed? The way they forge them changed?

It probably is a myth. The forging methods used are still the same, just more modern equipment (electric air blowers instead of hand bellows) and they may now have grinders made from composites instead of just stone. One thing that may have changed is the standards. For example silver steel is defined by the British standards document BS1407. Steel that meets this standard is also called Sheffied Silver Steel.

There may have been a different standard used (or a standard may not have existed) back in the day. My guess is that modern methods of forging are superior to those used in the 1800s. Standards for things like razors, surgical tools etc are much higher than they once were.

Now you can probably buy cheap razors from China that are inferior to things made 100 years ago but a modern straight razor from a reputable manufacturer (think Dovo or Theirs-Isssard) will be as good, and probably better, than anything that has come before it (these manufacturers have long histories and reputations to uphold).

That was day one. I read some say straight razors are not meant to be used everyday, is it true? Do I have to wait 48 hours till I can use it again?

Completely mythical. It's a way to ensure that you buy two razors, not one.

One problem you have:

. . . You don't know if the razor is _really sharp_.

Yes, it was sharpened by an expert -- but razors are _not_ knives. The standards for "sharp" are quite different.

Wipe off the oil, hold the blade almost flat against your forearm, as though you were going to shave the hair off. Now, lift the blade about 1/8" _above_ your skin. Move the blade as though you were shaving your arm.

. . . If the blade catches and cuts arm hair _in the air_, it's sharp.

If it doesn't, it's dull. Either ask the seller to fix it (the easy path), or learn to hone it yourself (the hard path).

There's also an "experience factor". But even for an experienced shaver, a dull blade makes for a painful shave.


. Charles

Originally Posted by cpcohen1945

One problem you have:

. . . You don't know if the razor is _really sharp_.

Yes, it was sharpened by an expert -- but razors are _not_ knives. The standards for "sharp" are quite different.

You have a point. Will try the sharpness test.