Excess drag

[tfree]

Hi all,
I'm not really new to SR shaving, but I've only trolled the sights until now for my questions. I sure most of what I have to ask is covered in one way or another, but I wanted to clarify a few things and get the opinions of those of you with more experience.

I've been SR shaving going on 3 years now. I started with and continue to use one of Ken Rup's razors and strops. I sent it to him for honing twice, 6 months after I started, and then again a year after I'd started, then I got my hands on a Nortan 4k/8k and have proceeded to learn honing.

I've always been prone to razor burn, and have found that to get a really nice shave I have to wait about 3 days minimum between shaves to do a full 3 passes without feeling the burn afterwards. I'd accepted this as being my norm until recently when I went on a trip and had to use my wife's DE razor, only to find it shaved so much smoother than I'd ever gotten with my SR, even after having it re-honed by Ken. This was even without my usual full beard prep. Needless to say, this was a bit frustrating after all the practice I'd put into my technique over the years.

In case anyone was going to ask, my shave looks about like this: I strop my razor on the rough side (one of Ken's fili strops with green paste) 16 or so laps followed by 60 on the smooth side. I have used hot and cold water for shaving (currently doing the hot I lather (homemade shave soap with bentonite), scrub and rinse my face, apply vinegar as a pre-shave (I know its a bit weird, but it has drastically improved my shaves from when I don't use it), rinse and re-lather, then do a classic WTG XTG ATG. I finish with an alum stone and moisturize.

Here's my question: Should I chalk it up to a cheap razor that just won't take a good edge? Ken seems to have a good name as a honemeister and he honed it the first 3 times. It was part of an $80 package deal and I can't tell much about it, other than it has Solingen printed on the side, it is a full hollow round point, and I think a 5/8ths blade. I'd say I had sensitive skin, but the DE did such a nice job and had notably less drag and felt much smoother.

[Euclid440]

What does the edge look like when looking straight down on it with magnification?

Also take a QTip and lightly run it along the edge from heel to toe with just the cotton part touching the blade.

If it snags cotton or you see shiny spots, it needs a touch up.

[tfree]

Thank you for your reply and the suggestion. No snags with the Qtip. Its been honed recently (by me). I have limited ability to check the blade under magnification, but it is smooth. The issue is that this has been the case ever since I started using it, regardless of the number of times it has been honed by me or a professional. I do occasionally get a more drag-free shave out of it, but that is usually with 3-4 days of beard growth.

What does the edge look like when looking straight down on it with magnification?

Also take a QTip and lightly run it along the edge from heel to toe with just the cotton part touching the blade.

If it snags cotton or you see shiny spots, it needs a touch up.

[jfk742]

It may be that you're using a pasted strop every use. If I do too many laps on my pasted strop the edge gets harsh. I use around 10 laps with the pasted strop after my finish hone and then only use the pasted strop if the edge starts to pull.

I'm not familiar with Kens work so I can't comment on his razors or honing ability.

You may try less angle or maybe sending the razor to a different hone meister, there are a few around here who come highly recommended.

My experience with a de has been the opposite of yours. I hope you can find a solution.

[BobH]

Did you use the home made shave soap when you were using your wife's DE on the trip?

Bob

[ScottGoodman]

Ken is top notch, so it's not his edges...but after you have stropped it all bets are off as with any pro honer. It sounds like the edge of your razor is lacking somehow...this is obvious Most of us recommend having at least two razors, so you have one available when one is in need of honing either by you or a pro.

As mentioned above, you could be overhoning your edge and the edge may be chippy from all the crox use. It's only meant to be used occasionally as mentioned above.

I am prone to razor burn on my neck too. My remedy for this, especially during the summer months is proraso green shave soap or bigelow's from bath & body works, alum block, and bay rum after shave.

[tfree]

jfk742: I'm glad to hear some of us have had a different experience. I can try backing off on the pasted strop, however I used to only use it every other time, per Ken's recommendation, and felt it shaved better with more frequent lapping on the pasted strop. I've considered trying someone else ,but as stated by shooter74743, he has a good rep and I'm not super confident it would make a difference.

BobH: Yes, I did use the same soap, but no vinegar. The vinegar usually gives my shaves a fairly marked improvement by softening the beard and allowing me to get a closer shave.

Shooter7473: I suppose I could have problems with my stropping technique. It has been a while now though, and I have worked on by light and quick, but not too quick. Learning things from print and video is always a bit sketchy. As I replied to jfk742, I've tried doing less time on the paste to not benefit. As to your last comment, I think that I could probably alleviate some issues with commercial products, but I can't help being frustrated that I could get a better shave with a DE with the same stuff I'm using now. I'm not even comfortable using the DE to be honest and have very little practice with it.

[Phrank]

I would agree on to much use of the pasted strop.

I will touch-up a razor's edge maybe after 6 or 7 shaves with no more than 6-10 laps on the crox pasted linen strop board I have, no more than that. After it get's used for another 5 or 6 shaves, I'll refresh it on the Nani 12k followed by a few laps on an Escher, then good to go.

[RezDog]

The three keys for me for an irritation free shave is stretching, no pressure, shave the lather not the whisker, and keep you blade angle low. Stretching for me was the biggest key. If you have a good razor, and good soap and prep, the only other factor is your hands. I have been using Noxema as a prep for some time. It works very well and is inexpensive.

[BobH]

[QUOTE=tfree;1580565]jfk742: BobH: Yes, I did use the same soap, but no vinegar. The vinegar usually gives my shaves a fairly marked improvement by softening the beard and allowing me to get a closer shave.QUOTE]

I guess that it is down to shaving technique then assuming a shaving sharp SR. You do get the occasional drag free shaves from the SR. I don't think it should make a huge difference in how the SR shaves between shaving daily or every third day either. If anything you should feel less irritation/razor burn with a SR.

I'd take a second look at your shaving technique. I'd concentrate on keeping 1 to 2 spine widths gap and using no pressure on the blade. Poor technique is a major contributor to irritation/razor burn. Can't hurt to re asses it too while you are at it.

Bob