Thread: Advice for a Barber converting from injector to a 'real' straight razor ...

Hello!

I am a third generation barber ...

But, when I went to barber college in 1991, no-one was using a traditional straight razor, they were using injector straight razors.
I am wanting to start using a 'real' razor in my shop, and I am hoping that I can get some good information from the 'experts' on this forum!

Currently I shave between 3-8 men every week in my shop (sometimes I will do as many as 5 in a row ...).

Thank you in advance for any, and all input I can get from you on this forum!
Joe Beardsley

Welcome aboard, Joe.
1) If those men are regular customers, I'd invest in a blade for each one of them for hygenic reasons.
2) I'd only strop the blade before the shave.
3) I'd wipe it down with alcohol after every shave.
As for getting the most out of this forum, I'd start with reading all of the help files. They're amazing. After that, if you have any questions, this forum software has a great search function. If that doesn't work either, we're a helpful bunch

Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

Welcome aboard, Joe.
1) If those men are regular customers, I'd invest in a blade for each one of them for hygenic reasons.
2) I'd only strop the blade before the shave.
3) I'd wipe it down with alcohol after every shave.
As for getting the most out of this forum, I'd start with reading all of the help files. They're amazing. After that, if you have any questions, this forum software has a great search function. If that doesn't work either, we're a helpful bunch

Thanks ...

I don't shave the same men every week ...

so having a razor for each customer wouldn't work out too well. But, I do like the suggestion about using alcohol for sanitation, currently I am using Barbicide, and an ultra-violet light sanitizer for the dry sterilizing.

I haven't had the time to search all the areas of this forum yet ...looks like it could take along time!
Basically, I am trying to figure out the best method for:

1. selecting good razors,
2. sharpening and stropping
3. best sanitation method for commercial use
4. also, some advice on prepping the face - before and after the shave

Thanks again!

Originally Posted by Joe Beardsley

Thanks ...

I don't shave the same men every week ...

so having a razor for each customer wouldn't work out too well. But, I do like the suggestion about using alcohol for sanitation, currently I am using Barbicide, and an ultra-violet light sanitizer for the dry sterilizing.

I haven't had the time to search all the areas of this forum yet ...looks like it could take along time!
Basically, I am trying to figure out the best method for:

1. selecting good razors,
2. sharpening and stropping
3. best sanitation method for commercial use
4. also, some advice on prepping the face - before and after the shave

Thanks again!

+1 on checking your local regulations
once you've done that, there are several razors out there that have metal handles and would be good under ultraviolet. (Wapi, Dovo, French army razors) I'm not sure how wood handles would hold up, but plastic would cook and rot under UV.
Also wood can/will harbor bacteria.
Your best bet is probably the Dovo. It's all stainless, has great edge retention, and can be run through pretty much any sterilization process you chose. Wapis are good, but for your use they would lose their edge too fast.
Sharpening and stropping, The stropping part is easiest, Get a couple of strops from Tony Miller. A hanging strop for when you shave, and a paddle strop with 0.5 CrO and 0.25 diamond paste.
For sharpening, You are better off having a professional service your blades until you can read up and learn to hone. A good honing setup can be costly... Also it takes time and a gentle touch to learn to hone properly. I will extend this offer to you If you check your regulations and can legally use a regular straight in your shop, I will do the initial honing on your razors for free. (Although If I ever make it to your shop, I expect a free shave ) I would love to see traditional straights in a barber shop.


Sanitation: the best method is autoclave, but I'm not sure how the temperature will effect the edge. Second best is extended exposure to UV. ultra Violet light breaks down DNA, so it will kill pretty much everything given enough time. but it will not kill where it can't reach. so you would need to use a squirt of clippercide in your pivot area.(the pivot is not likely to touch or cut anyone, so you're safe there.)

Finally the prep: the guys have already hit on this

but you can still provide all of the "old tyme" amenities of a barber shop shave, or maybe you already do. Hot towels, hot lather, face massage, and selection of aftershaves and balms, etc.

read the barber manuals and other information here. Do the whole spa type shaving experience, and you can't go wrong.

Originally Posted by Mike_ratliff

Finally the prep: the guys have already hit on this

read the barber manuals and other information here. Do the whole spa type shaving experience, and you can't go wrong.

Originally Posted by honedright

but you can still provide all of the "old tyme" amenities of a barber shop shave, or maybe you already do. Hot towels, hot lather, face massage, and selection of aftershaves and balms, etc. Give them the works at a reasonable price and I think that's all you need.

I definitely agree with these comments. I will drive up to Chicago just for the experience if you do this.

Originally Posted by Mike_ratliff

Sanitation: the best method is autoclave, but I'm not sure how the temperature will effect the edge.

An autoclave would be harsh however there is something called a chemiclave. They have been in use for a long time and seem to be less harsh on tools.

yeah, but they stink, you'd have to put a chemclave in a location away from where your customers could smell it... Plus the chemicals are expensive, and sometomes hard to find. My brother used to use a chemclave on his tattoo equipment before he could afford an autoclave.

like I said, the UV would work for all exposed areas of the blade, and as long as you don't filet anybody, you aren't going to get blood or body fluids in the pivot, so a blast of clippercide should work there...


This topic has come up frequently enough, maybe we need some references to barber and health regulations so we can see a common thread, and maybe understand why It's not allowed in so many areas.

I wish I could give you some good advice but have never shaved anyone but myself!
I am glad to see a barber here though! Where do you hail from?

Originally Posted by JMS

I wish I could give you some good advice but have never shaved anyone but myself!
I am glad to see a barber here though! Where do you hail from?

I was born in SE Mo., but I am currently in the Chicago suburbs (Elk Grove Village, IL), on the western border of O'hare airport.

I think the main reason the "disposable" straight razors are preferred for barbers is the issue of spreading some really nasty diseases. So, if you plan to use any single razor for more than one individual, I think you would be wise to find some really strong disinfectants as well as antiviral solutions and develop a multi stage razor cleaning process to follow after each straight shave. Plain alcohol will not kill much, some people advocate bleach but it's still not great, some commercial cleaners will do; but if I were you, I'd use them all (separately, of course) just to be safe. This is as much for you as it is for your customers.

Other than that, you'll want to spend a LOT of time learning to hone your own razors (there's a substantial learning curve, but it pays off) as well as proper stropping technique so as to minimize your need for honing. A perfectly honed and stropped straight razor simply cannot be beaten for a great shave.

Good luck!