Thread: Setting the #@!!$&#! Bevel

which dovo model is this, they have several stainless ones.

the best way for ensuring the blade gets equal pressure as you hone is to watch the water in front of it. just watch it and your hand will adjust to make the bead uniform, the difference is very small so it's almost impossible to do it by trying, just relax (blame Xman in another thread for this word) and let it happen.

Originally Posted by gugi

... just relax (blame Xman in another thread for this word) and let it happen.

Punish the monkey, eh.

I'm concerned about the edge getting worse when transitioning from the 1k to the 4k and 8k pyramids. Since you lapped the 1ks, I obviously would assume that you also lapped and beveled the 4k and 8k. What kind of sandpaper did you use? Was it woodworker's dry sandpaper or was it wet/dry sandpaper? If it's the former, you might have grit embedded in the hones tearing up your edges.

Given the amount of reading you have done, I doubt you made that mistake but I thought I should throw it out there.

Hello,

The sandpaper was 320 grit wet+ dry (Norton brand), what we used to call 'emery cloth'.

I have lapped all the hones, but am going to do it again just to make sure.

I think the issue might be that, when I have put enough pressure to get the edge on the blade at the 1000 grit level, the warp straigtens out. I then go to the next stone, where I've been backing off and going quite gently, which means that the blade geometry has changed and the 4000 grit is actually trying to set a different angle than the 1000 has established. The notion of using the edge of the 1000 makes sense, but neither the Naniwas nor the Norton 4K/8K combo can be used this way.

I have gone back to the nicked Cerena I mentioned, and have ground it down enough to get rid of the nick. I've got it to a place where it is very sharp on the 1K Norton. I'll not graduate to the finer grits and see what happens.

Thanks to all those who have posted the helpful comments so far.

Originally Posted by TheViolentVicar

I think the issue might be that, when I have put enough pressure to get the edge on the blade at the 1000 grit level, the warp straigtens out. I then go to the next stone, where I've been backing off and going quite gently, which means that the blade geometry has changed and the 4000 grit is actually trying to set a different angle than the 1000 has established.

Begging your pardon but that doesn't make sense to me. If you are using a consistent stroke and angle it shouldn't matter which hone you are on IMO. The bevel is set and then then followed on the finer stones IME. If any stone is going to cause a misshapen bevel it would be the 1k. Not that you couldn't mess it up on the 4k but if the stroke and angle are consistent throughout the progression that shouldn't be an issue.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

Begging your pardon but that doesn't make sense to me. If you are using a consistent stroke and angle it shouldn't matter which hone you are on IMO. The bevel is set and then then followed on the finer stones IME. If any stone is going to cause a misshapen bevel it would be the 1k. Not that you couldn't mess it up on the 4k but if the stroke and angle are consistent throughout the progression that shouldn't be an issue.

I think that, by pressing on the blade harder, it flattens out and makes full contact with the hone. When the pressure is relaxed, the blade springs back to its slightly warped shape and the contact with the subsequent hones is different.

Originally Posted by gugi

... just relax (blame Xman in another thread for this word) and let it happen.

Originally Posted by xman

Punish the monkey, eh.

I just blame xman for everything. Doesn't make your blade any sharper but you feel a whole lot better!

Originally Posted by TheViolentVicar

I think that, by pressing on the blade harder, it flattens out and makes full contact with the hone. When the pressure is relaxed, the blade springs back to its slightly warped shape and the contact with the subsequent hones is different.

If that is the amount of pressure you were applying I would say that is way too much. Take a look at the rolling x or the x with the blade at a 45 degree angle.... or a combination of the two. Maybe send it out to a honemiester?

something i have noticed when going from my Norton 1k to the 4k and 8k might explain the blade getting duller. when you hone on the 1k because of the grit size it creates tiny teeth on the edge which would be what grabs your thumb nail. these are what will pop a hair when some say that their blade was popping hairs off the 1k (but obviously shaves like crap). so when you go to the 4k, these teeth will get honed off initially making the blade seem dull. if you stay on that grit for a bit longer the blade starts to come back and will actually pop hairs the right way. after the 4k you are mainly polishing and refining which shouldn't take too long.

this is how it was explained to me and it has worked ever since. i don't have anything to magnify the edge enough to see if this is what is happening, but to me it makes sense.

this is also why i only use the pyramids for touch ups, not the initial honing. this is not to say that they won't work, they will, but i prefer to stay on one grit until i can see things are ready for the next. everyone is different.

good luck
Wes