Thread: A Directive Easy Approach

I would like to start a thread that goes beyond the suggestion . . . and dives into a directive approach. I invite you to do the same or comment on mine as you wish.

The idea behind this thread is that you are telling someone the definitive way to start using a straight razor, no if, ands, or buts allowed. Beginners are recommended to simply read and consider.

So, I'll begin. . .

1) Start with a razor honed by someone else

Do not buy a "shave ready" razor (unless you buy it here). That would be like buying a house at Home Depot or artwork from an art supply store. You rarely buy the pieces and parts from someone that actually uses them. Very few people selling razors know how to use or hone them. Buy a razor and then send that razor specifically to someone that

a) You know can hone
b) Whose name you know, with an address for return
c) Someone who will re-hone the razor for free, if you're unhappy

Using a website with a professional honer on staff is a good idea, be willing though to move the next step or proceed with step 1 (sending the razor out anyway).

The objective is to get the razor sharp and shaving.

2) Buy a high grit hone

Learn the proper stroke for honing. Be ready, within a month to use that hone, but only use that hone. I recommend a barber hone or a Chinese "12K" hone. By the time you need to touch up your razor you will not be proficient at using any lower grit, so don't even bother trying.

3) Learn to lather.

If you can't build up a good lather don't start shaving. Find a tutorial. I suggest, if required, to start with a completely dry brush and add water slowly. It might take you all day, two to three drips at a time, but at least you'll figure it out. A decent brush is usually a good idea. A high quality brush is an unnecessary luxury, but this is a luxury event. So do what you want with the price point, it's not my money.

4) Strop with Confidence

Hold the strop lightly and use a little pressure. Throw out all other considerations and thoughts as needless conservativism. Strop with enough deflection to get a full hollow razor shaving smoothly and cleanly without pull. You can use a taut strop and a light touch on the kitchen silverware if you want, but break out your bad barber style confidence for the strop. The strop should deflect a few millimeters downward when stropping. As you pull on the strop you should feel a deeper drawing sensation, then relax your grip again and listen to the change in pitch as you ensure the strop is hitting the edge. Then go back to the bevel, ride the bevel a bit, and return to the edge. All with the slightest changes in tension of your off hand. It's a piece of leather afterall, you shouldn't be capable of doing too much damage. Then again, if you think this all means allowing for sag, instead of just deflection, be prepared to start honing right now. Buy a good strop, it's money well spent. Sell it here if you don't like it. You might, if allowing for deflection, hone a little more often, but the smoothness of the shave is well worth it. An incredible shave today is worth the price of honing a week earlier than typically required.

5) Deal with you dull razor

Use a high grit hone and an x-pattern and stroke the razor carefully on the hone. Roll the edge over on the spine. Check in the Wiki; lots of incredible information there. Read some threads. I suggest you start with a light amount of pressure, focused on a very slight torque into the edge, and then finish with the lightest possible touch. Get your pinky under the scales to keep the blade flat on the hone. Hold the shank between thumb and forefinger until it balances between the razor end and the scales end evenly. If you can't hold it level with the ground with just two fingers you'll never be able to with a hone in the way. When completing a stroke keep your hand above the hone and your finger pads even with the top of the hone. Start with 6 laps, up and down passes, and then strop and test. Consider 6 more if needed. Do another 6 more passes before you start re-evaluating the problem. After 18 laps check the Wiki and start diagnosing the problem.

6) Shave like a Pro

Pretend you're a barber and use a very light touch and a delicate artistic motion around your face. Think about the right grip, angle, and stroke. Don't think of yourself as a hack that needs pressure or more practice. If a light touch and a 30 degree angle doesn't shave pretty easily; stop. Go to the Wiki and watch a video or two. Consider re-evaluating from Step 1; miss a step? Learn to deal with a little bit of resistance in the stroke. Look, its okay, you're not the master honer and stropper that you might think, yet. Its okay. Look at the bright side, think of the damage you could do with a straight razor on your face that didn't have a little resistance to it. It's not a teflon coated DE, but, go try a Mach 3. If your not getting less resistance than a Mach 3 your doing one of the steps above poorly.

Okay, I'm done. Comments welcome. Again to remind you though. These thoughts are focused toward the beginner, so keep that in mind.