Originally Posted by
ScottARoush
thanks Tom....
From what you are saying, it sounds like it would be better to do a flat grind all the way to edge, or a slight hollow grind with edge at same level as spine to allow laying the razor completely flat on the stone... but if you put on a secondary bevel, then you can't simply lay it flat on the stone right??? You have hone it at the angle in which you set the secondary bevel...
As to honing to finer than 1000.... I'm not sure I understand that. If you get a wire edge and then polish it off with rouge on a strop.. you've achieved what you need to achieve right? My understanding of japanese water stones is that you form the edge at the coarser grits and the below that it's a series of polish grits that simply remove the wire edge without stropping. I could be way off base, but that is my understanding of sharpening japanese swords. Having said that, I do believe that honing is my problem. But I have a feeling it's because of my screwed up edge geometry. I'm about to just start completely over and go by some actual dimensions of an actual western styly razor. I reground last night to what looks to me to be a kamisori... and it's worse if anything. Shaves my cheek hair great... but can't get the chin and mustache.
As to temper....Well I know my 1084 and I temper it to 400 which should be something like 58 rockwell which would be less than a commercial razor. but that's just a matter of ease and frequency of sharpening...not the actual quality of the edge according to my understanding. Also... I use a variable speed KMG set at low settings and sharp belt for putting the initial edge on with frequent water dips.... I've never had an issue with losing temper on the belt. But I've sure seen it happen!