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10-11-2010, 08:13 AM #1
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- Oct 2010
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Thanked: 0Incredibly uncomfortable - not getting better.
I'm still somewhat of a beginner, but I've been playing with different methods nonstop for a few months now. Absolutely nothing I do will give me a good shave. I've got a very, very heavy, thick beard (it's just obscenely thick around my chin as well) and very sensitive skin. I got a shave in vegas once last year, and it was absolutely fantastic, even though the barber isn't allowed to use a regular razor (have to use disposable cartridges) I wanted to learn how to do this.
I've used my granddad's old razor (had it honed professionally first,) a razor I got at an antique store with some life left in it (also had it honed) and then got myself a solingen razor from excalibur cutlery. None of them have ever given me a good shave. I've honed them myself on a stone, and had them professionally done from different shops as well. I have a bismark strop, and do 15 on the canvas, 60 on the leather before each shave (have also tried not stropping for a few shaves)
I have a good badger brush, I use conk soap, art of shaving pre-shave oil and lotion. I've tried every day, every other day, 3 days, 4, 5, 6, and 7. every day is just way, way too uncomfortable for my skin. fresh out of the shower, soaking with towels, conditioner on the face, etc.
I've tried all different angles, and I hold my skin as tight as I can (I can't seem to hold it tight with my hand, so I just contort my face in absurd ways) but it always feels like the razor is just ripping hair out and not even trying to cut it. My skin always feels horrible afterwards, even with lotions. on the finer areas, like where my beard starts to creep up my cheeks with a few stray strands, it works fabulously. But on my actual beard, it's horrible. What I am forced to do is shave with a regular razor and then follow suit with the grain in one pass on my straight razor to neaten it up (which it can do without discomfort) but trying to go against or side to the grain, it's right back to absolutely horrible pain. short 1/2 inch strokes are the best that I've noticed, but I can't actually cut much hair doing that.
I also don't nick myself often.
Has anyone else with a stupid thick beard had these issues, and managed to correct them? It's supposed to just "come with time" but I feel just as bad after a shave now as I did on day one.
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10-11-2010, 10:28 AM #2
Have you tried to shave yourself with a disposable like the barber used?
That would eliminate the blade as a problem. Strong chance the fault is in something you're doing/not doing eg mis-stropping.
Wait a minute ... You say razors were honed in shops. You mean knife shops ????
If so that is likely a problem as they don't really know how to sharpen razors unless they shave with one themselves.. As for your own honing , how many razors have you succesfully honed to shave ready. Do those ones shave you well ?
You need to eliminate variables to win this so start with a razor honed by a guy who uses one. This link will find you such a person
Member Services - Straight Razor Place ClassifiedsThe white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
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10-11-2010, 11:17 AM #3
First let me say I am fairly new, about 8 weeks into this. You have mentioned many of the variables essential to a comfortable shave, but one thing I haven't seen you mention is the way you pull the blade across your face. Do you just move the blade in a strictly vertical line? There is a Barber's manual I have read that advocates a motion of the blade in the horizontal direction at the same time as the vertical direction. I'm not sure if this is what is meant as 'Scything'. The motion I use will move the blade about 3/4" in the horizontal direction for a pass down the cheek, about 3 inches.
Also, as for comfort, the blade has to just barely touch your face.
I also agree to trying a disposable, just to eliminate any question of blade issues.
Have you shaved with a DE? How does that do with your beard?
I have a thick beard on the chin, especiall the white hairs, which are twice as thick as the others. I am finally getting to the point where I am almost BBS there, takes about 4 passes.
Hope this helps.
PS, what area are you located, and can you find a local Senior Member to mentor you?
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10-11-2010, 11:26 AM #4
Could just be a blade issue. You can send one to me and I can check it out for you, tell you if you're crazy, hone it better, and return it if you'd like.
Generally, there is no such thing as a "heavy beard" to a straight razor. You could add a little more prep time, but that is an unlikely cause of the problem.
By the way, the only reason to skip stropping is if the razor is already shaving you perfectly. Otherwise you should strop quite a bit.
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10-11-2010, 12:42 PM #5
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10-11-2010, 01:04 PM #6
It takes several months to develop the skill to shave with a Str8. Until then you need to go slow, follow the wiki and the advice of the members on SRP. Someday you will shave and find yourself with a close, comfortable shave. How long that takes depends on how you learn and if you follow the advice your given and the wiki.
Keep trying, it is worth the effort.“Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe.”
Albert Einstein
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10-11-2010, 03:49 PM #7
As a fairly new str8r I can say that many times finding info here on the forums is difficult becasue there is no ONE way, no ONE technique, therefor alot of advice is conflicting. I think it important for the OP to continue his quest by trying different recommendations, but only varying one thing at a time. I would advocate a disposable, only to remove one variable from the equation...his stropping technique. Even if he has his blade re-honed, one bad strop is going to create a bad shave regardless of technique.
My conflicting recommendation would be as follows:
Start with just shaving the cheeks, skip the jaw/chin/neck for now.
Shave with a DE. How light can you shave with it and still get a good pass? Now try that with your Str8, WTG only. Try different angles, try to duplicate the sound the DE made. When you have success, stick with that and duplicate it several times before moving on to the more difficult parts.
Then move to the chin and neck and jawline, but only as a second pass WTG after using a DE for the first pass. If you can do this successfully, then try a first pass on these.
Like Mvcrash said, go slow. Try not to get too many variables at one time. Prep/soap/lather. hot or cold, all of these are secondary to Razor, angle, touch, stroke.
Hope I haven't confused the issue. But being a NOOB it is fresh on my mind what has brought me success when starting out. I can get BBS on 95% of my face without feeling like I fell face first into a den of vipers.Last edited by souschefdude; 10-11-2010 at 03:53 PM.
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10-11-2010, 01:12 PM #8
Don't feel like the Lone Ranger. There are plenty of guys with ultra tough beards shaving with a straight razor successfully. Note the threads devoted to head shaving. Much tougher density than a facial shave.
IME if you've gotten a smooth, close and comfortable shave with any alternative to a straight razor you should be able to get it with a truly shave ready straight as well. Sounds like a blade and/or technique issue.Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
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10-11-2010, 01:34 PM #9
I agree with what everyone else has already stated. I also used a disposable shavette before I started with a real str8 and it helped get my confidence up and motivated me to spend the money on a real one. I have only been at this a few months but it is totally worth it once you even just start to get the hang of it (like myself). I still have a great deal of learning to do but am already having a blast.
Everyone on SRP is really, really good about helping out. Just keep asking questions and you will get the hang of it eventually.
-amt
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10-11-2010, 03:22 PM #10
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