Thread: Newbee ?s?s?s

I plan on trying out .50 micron Chromium Oxide paste. To preven wasting a good piece of leather I would like some advice or opinions on it's proper or preferred application.
1. Does it work better on leather or balsa strops?
2. How long should it be allowed to dry before using?
3. I intend on making the leather strop; therefore I need to know if I should apply neetsfeet oil and allow it to dry before applying the paste?
Onto the honing question. I recently purchased a 12,000 grit stone from a reputable vendor. The stone is from China and is a quarry cut stone. The directions state that all I am required to do is soak for 30 minutes prior to use. While watching the "World of Straight Razor Shaving" DVD, which I am sure everyone here is familiar with, I saw Lynn using a prep stone to develop a "slurry" on his finishing stone. Does anyone know if the 12,000 grit stone requires a slurry for proper cutting?
Lastly, I am now a little confused about how to properly clean my razor while shaving. The documentation that came from the vendor stated to dry wipe the razor on a quality paper towel or soft cloth towel because running water can cause micro chips on the edge. I will refer back to the WSRS DVD again where Lynn is demonstrating his preferred method of shaving; he cleans his razor under the faucet. WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO PREVENT DAMAGING THE RAZOR? Lynn says to use running water while the factory strongly advises against it. I am just a little confused on this one.
All constructive thoughts and/or ideas are welcome. Thank you all.
Semper Fi and HOOAH

Your strop won't need any preparation before paste is applied, your 12K should do fine without slurry, although you can try it for quicker cutting, and running water does not cause micro-chips. The faucet that the water comes out of causes chips, but they are not of the micro variety. You can trust me on that.

Soldier,

abrasive pastes very much respond differently when using different platforms. In a kind post from Glen, (I hope I'm remembering correctly) felt, linen, leather, balsa. The order of those is in increasing likelihood of producing a harsh finish. I've used crox on leather. Its okay, has helped w/ some cranky blades. I've also used slurry from a C12k and a Nakayama asagi on balsa - not bad. More recently, tried linde 'A' (.3m alox) on leather. 'Good, but not as good as CBN on most anything.

Lather,
You recommend CBN over CrOx if I understand you correctly? How often do you use it? Where can I purchase it if I don't find the CrOx meeting my needs?

The drying time depends on the carrier you use. it could be anywhere from hours to days. I know one of the outfits that sells diamond paste changed the carrier they use and when you use the paste on a strop it can take a couple of weeks for it to dry thoroughly.

Hello there Spendur,
This question will probably make me sound extremely stupid but as I used to tell all my young Marines and Soldiers the ONLY stupid question is the one you have that you don't ask; anyway, how dry must the paste be before I can use the strop? I have checked another post on this same topic and now see there are even more variables to consider. I will do more research here before I apply anything to anything to ensure I don't screw up the strop I just ordered from SRD, the "Straight Razor Designs 3" Rock Hard Wool," from what I have read thus far I believe this is the best choice for CrOx paste.
If I'm wrong I hope someone will catch this and please advise. It truly sucks being a rookie!

Greetings Ace,
Thank you for the clarification about the faucet issue. Makes sense.

Here is a thread I did awhile back about paste that might help http://straightrazorpalace.com/strop...ugh-guide.html

It was before CBN so there is no info on that.