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I have a Stephen Woodworking brush (cocobolo handle) from SRD and I am very happy with it. The only issue I have is the fact the wood collects a whitish residue or discoloration up to about an inch from the bristles. I don't believe is soap or dried up glycerin. Is that just moisture slowly damaging the wood? According to SRD, this brush is finished with Danish oil.
All my brushes get at least 4 coats of ren-wax that should be re-applied a couple times a year,that will keep them looking nice if you dry well after using
if you are going to use a wood brush and want it to look like new you need to treat it every so often. Any good wax will do the trick. Otherwise the water and soap will get into the wood.
It is soap buildup. Cocobolo is naturally water proof due to the high oil content which is why it is used in a lot of knife handles. A normal wood finish will not cure on most rosewoods, it will stay gummy forever. I get the same thing on my brushes (finished and not) now and then but normally a good rubbing with a damp towel will take it off. Milled soaps seam to be the worst when it comes to leaving residue. You can wipe it now and then with mineral oil, walnut oil, butcher block oil, etc.... if you wish to 'refresh' the finish but they should be pretty much maintenance free.
You could always send it back to me and I can take a look at it, give it a light sanding in the lathe and put a fresh finish on it for you. If it is a defect of some kind, which does happen now and then, I will replace it. I make hundreds of these for SRD but now and then I do get one that develops a defect. I can count the bad units on one hand but it does happen now and then as with any product. You can drop me an email at ineedespresso(at)sbcglobal.net if you want. I am Stephens wood working if you did not guess. I stand behind my work and if it is not right I fix it.
Dave
accolades to you Dave,Question tho,how would you chuck a finished brush in a lathe??
Very carefully and a low speed setting. I have some custom made drive spurs one of which is little more than a blunt ended rod that will go through the nap of the knot and rest against the backing. The live center end gets double stick taped to some scrap with the center point already set in it. Then turn the lathe down as far as it will go and gently run some 400/600 grit paper over it. Then wipe it with a fresh oil finish. Too fast or too much pressure and you will damage the brush or it will fly off and smack you in the forehead.
Been there done that:( just scored a Vac pump,am going to try and make an air chuck for light work.Quote:
Originally Posted by cannonfodder
Cool. PowerMatic makes a wicked monster lathe with a built in vac chuck and 3 phase 220 motor if you ever want to turn a block of wood the size of a Ford. Huge monster if you ever get to put hands on one.
JET 1794224K, 4224B Lathe 3hp 1/3ph 220V
I have a piece of leather that I wrap around the brush before it goes in the chuck. Works well at keeping scratches away from finished brushes. Of course, that doesn't help with the bottom end. As far as oil finishes go, Birchwood Casey (an excellent source for a gun oil I have used on knife scales) recommends "once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and every 6 months after that". That's why I'm going with CA - it's more of less idiot proof.
Pixel - keep us informed on the vacuum chuck project - I'm really interested in that idea.
Cannon - nice lathe - I'll think about it when I win the lottery.
Those kind of Oils don't give to the wood too much protection from moistureQuote:
Originally Posted by Razorthin
They used mainly for other reasons
If you want to keep your brush send it (or by your self if you know) for some sandpaper work and then Shellac.
http://up.picr.de/8703485cst.jpg
http://up.picr.de/8703479qjb.jpg
I have done it,here is an example.