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Thread: Issue with my wooden brush

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  1. #1
    Senior Member Razorthin's Avatar
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    Default Issue with my wooden brush

    I have a Stephen Woodworking brush (cocobolo handle) from SRD and I am very happy with it. The only issue I have is the fact the wood collects a whitish residue or discoloration up to about an inch from the bristles. I don't believe is soap or dried up glycerin. Is that just moisture slowly damaging the wood? According to SRD, this brush is finished with Danish oil.

  2. #2
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    All my brushes get at least 4 coats of ren-wax that should be re-applied a couple times a year,that will keep them looking nice if you dry well after using

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    Mvcrash (06-28-2013)

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    The Hurdy Gurdy Man thebigspendur's Avatar
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    if you are going to use a wood brush and want it to look like new you need to treat it every so often. Any good wax will do the trick. Otherwise the water and soap will get into the wood.
    No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero

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    Ooo Shiny cannonfodder's Avatar
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    It is soap buildup. Cocobolo is naturally water proof due to the high oil content which is why it is used in a lot of knife handles. A normal wood finish will not cure on most rosewoods, it will stay gummy forever. I get the same thing on my brushes (finished and not) now and then but normally a good rubbing with a damp towel will take it off. Milled soaps seam to be the worst when it comes to leaving residue. You can wipe it now and then with mineral oil, walnut oil, butcher block oil, etc.... if you wish to 'refresh' the finish but they should be pretty much maintenance free.

    You could always send it back to me and I can take a look at it, give it a light sanding in the lathe and put a fresh finish on it for you. If it is a defect of some kind, which does happen now and then, I will replace it. I make hundreds of these for SRD but now and then I do get one that develops a defect. I can count the bad units on one hand but it does happen now and then as with any product. You can drop me an email at ineedespresso(at)sbcglobal.net if you want. I am Stephens wood working if you did not guess. I stand behind my work and if it is not right I fix it.

    Dave
    Mvcrash, pfries and EAGLESKADU like this.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    accolades to you Dave,Question tho,how would you chuck a finished brush in a lathe??

  7. #6
    Ooo Shiny cannonfodder's Avatar
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    Very carefully and a low speed setting. I have some custom made drive spurs one of which is little more than a blunt ended rod that will go through the nap of the knot and rest against the backing. The live center end gets double stick taped to some scrap with the center point already set in it. Then turn the lathe down as far as it will go and gently run some 400/600 grit paper over it. Then wipe it with a fresh oil finish. Too fast or too much pressure and you will damage the brush or it will fly off and smack you in the forehead.

  8. #7
    Senior Member Doryferon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Razorthin View Post
    According to SRD, this brush is finished with Danish oil.
    Those kind of Oils don't give to the wood too much protection from moisture
    They used mainly for other reasons
    If you want to keep your brush send it (or by your self if you know) for some sandpaper work and then Shellac.





    I have done it,here is an example.

  9. #8
    Member collect's Avatar
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    if wood is good do not be scared. white color is not damage to wood it is personality for wood coming out. soon wood looking old and nice like the time of grandfather.
    Kind regards,
    Salomon

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