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I got my grandfather's Ever-Ready shaving brush. It probably lost 30 hairs when I used it and didn't exactly compare to my synthetic. So, I think I'm going to read through some tutorials and replace the knot.
Anyone have recommendations for particular tutorial type threads that you enjoyed or where to buy the knot? I've only owned boar and synthetic brushes, so will probably make this one a silvertip.
Reliable knots bought here ---> https://thegoldennib.com/index.php?m...3a2298fc926de3
I pinch the knot in a vise untill it cracks, turn and repeat. turn and repeat until it falls out. Learned it from Glen. :<0)
Sounds like a great tip. No vise here but have vise-grips that should do the same sort of thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10Pups
Moved this over into the Brushmakers Alcove so you get even more advice have fun on the restore
And I learned it from a Total Newb on here a few years back, funny as heck he had no idea what he was doing, but it worked and he took pics because he thought he broke it :rofl2:Quote:
Originally Posted by 10Pups
Sure works easy when it works,,, No bristles all over the shop from cutting them down and drilling it out :p
Thanks for showing me the brush subforum. I really enjoyed looking through the razor forging/restore subforums in the past and this looks like the equivalent. And, glad you are still keeping busy here as well, doing your good work.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Can't find my vise grips atm and the channel locks aren't quite cutting it (although I am getting some of the cracking sound from the glue breaking). Will resume my brush quest in the near future.
After I get the knot out, my next step will be to buy the right sized knot. I do have some calipers to help with the measurement.
I tried twisting the knot loose, but it turns out the cracking I heard was the hairs and not glue. This is where I'm at and will now have to drill out somehow:
Attachment 149140Attachment 149141Attachment 149142Attachment 149143
edit: Now, I've cleaned out the inside with a dremel and measured. It's about 7mm deep and 20mm diameter. I understand the insides of these are hollow? That's what it feels like. I'll probably drill out the top part and fill with epoxy.
Polished it up with some blue magic and it looks cleaner - but can't get the dirt out of the lettering on the bottom yet. Any tricks to getting in those tiny grooves? Just using a microfiber cloth atm.
Now that I've got it cleaned out and know it's about 7mm deep and 20mm diameter, I found this knot: 20mm Silvertip Grade A [20-STA] - $27.95 : Fountain Pen parts - NIBS, - Wholesale Fountain Pen Ink - Golden Nib AZQuote:
Originally Posted by 10Pups
Do you know how thick that glue part of the knot it? I've only owned a few brushes, so don't know much about how deep I should set the knot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RADisorder
Oy Vey here it comes now LOL
This is one of those things that has many opinions,, You adjust the depth by drilling deeper or not, you have to drill deep enough to at least bury the plug. after that you have to adjust for effect..
The deeper you set the plug the lower you set the loft the lower the loft the stiffer then feel of the bristles... and that is where it switches to YMMV :p
Sorry
Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Yes, I've heard it before and seen the particular camps opine when it comes to preferences of face/bowl lathering and the backbone of the brush, softness, etc. I'm not sure I'm as picky as some yet - so was thinking I might get away without breaking that shelf on top and needing to fill the whole hollow inside with epoxy. Probably will have to, since that glue part of the knot is probably bigger than 7mm, but I'll just order it and figure out the next step when it gets here.
This is fun though. Bought my first "dremel" type tool today. It's a Chicago Electric I got at harbor freight for 16 bucks with a coupon. Speeds are fully adjustable and it made easy work of cleaning out the inside so far.
Set the knot at 50 mm.
Got it, I think. That would be setting the top of the glue plug thing, where the hairs are first seen at 50mm, correct? Is that about middle of the road?Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
From the top cap to the tips of the knot,50mm should serve you well.Quote:
Originally Posted by RADisorder
Oh wow, I completely misread 50mm as 5mm at first. Alright, got it, 50mm of brush from the top of the handle, whatever depth takes to get it there. Thanks.
An example to my preferences. 24 mm fan 2-band. I like to size the knot as big as I can to the handle. I also give the knot a strong Oxyclean bath and dry/fluff before fitting. This gets me a better approximation of how the knot should be set as the knot has "bloomed" mostly. I get it to the depth where it feels right on my face. Then I shove it down a tad! :D
That's it! Adhere and position. I don't use epoxy. Automotive Goop for me! More forgiving, yet takes longer to cure.
I think I see those restoring older, bristle brushes not understanding that they should make certain that there is sufficient depth to the handle to allow for proper installation of a great, modern 2-bander! Depending upon ID, some need as much as 3/4 inch, FME !
I'll take the advise. I was wondering if the shelf was deep enough, but it's not going to be. Going to go ahead and drill it out while the knot is shipping. What am I looking for exactly in terms of "Automotive Goop"? I don't mind waiting for it to cure if it's more forgiving.Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
Here ya go! Test fit the knot, record loft. Smear the goop inside the handle and place a big dollop on the knot base, reinsert and adjust, hang upside down to cure. The Goop is a thick product, does not run fast. It will droop down around the knot base and dry as air hits it. I have never had any run out on the hairs. Dries slowly, esp inside the handle where there is little air, so hang for about a week. Easy job, no mess. If you do get some on the handle, you can peel it off with a fingernail as it has cured some. I have done lots and all are very solid. You can find it at O'Reilly's auto parts. Good for scores of things.
It is also sold as Household Goop, Shoe Goop, same stuff. :D
Thanks for the pictures. I think I know just what you're talking about now. I'd burn a hole through a pair of tennis shoes in a week or two when I was younger and used "Shoe Goo" a lot. It looked just like that and moved/cured the way you describe.Quote:
Originally Posted by sharptonn
I think I'm going to go with epoxy though for this particular handle. The issue here is the thing is hollow all the way to the bottom and the goop has a slight give to it, at least the stuff I remember using. That would work great on top of a firm base, and I can see how it'd be more forgiving, but I'm going to need to create a base about an inch thick.
It's cleaned up and drilled out now. Just need to wait for the knot I ordered to get here and maybe dremel around the inside once more. I've read people use marine epoxy a lot and I imagine that stuff will work to make a thick, firm base.
Attachment 149262
I am cetain Epoxy will work well. Be carefull to not get any on the outside of that celluloid handle! The aluminum one pictured above is totally hollow. The goop works fine with those. As you hang it upside down, the goop levels off.
Makes a fine, tight job. We must remember that they used molten rubber to set them back in the day for the most part.
Look how hard that stuff is to get out most of the time!
Plaster of paris works great to build up the inside.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
I'm working on my brush here. Got a knot from whipped dog. I'd heard good things and it was 10 dollars less when shipping was included - so 24 bucks.
Anyhow, this is my issue now: The little solid disc at the end of the knot fits easily into the handle. But, the hairs bulge out so much from the base that there isn't enough room to sink the knot any further down into the handle. So, I started to bore the whole larger, but realized that i would have to bore it out a whole lot more to get it to fit further down.
I'm wondering if these knots are built differently than most of the others from the golden nib in that way, or is it the way all of them are? As it sits now, the loft is going to be about 57mm. I may just leave it there because I'd have to widen the diameter of the hole another 5mm or so just to get it to sit lower and I don't think I want to alter the look that much. I use a scuttle to lather mostly so it might work out for me.
Attachment 150174
Can you get it down to about 54mm,if you bowl lather that might work out,may be floppy tho.
Nah, it won't go a tad lower unless I really bore out the hole a substantial amount. The hairs really bulge out to the side, right after the disc thing. In the picture I'm giving it a very tight squeeze and you just can't budge the hairs any more than that.Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
Attachment 150182
Thats because the epoxy used to make the knot base extends far up into the hair knot,not alot you can do accept open the hole more.Quote:
Originally Posted by RADisorder
Some will say to use an O-Ring,your call.
I chose to make the hole bigger. Ended up moving from a 20mm diameter hole to over 24mm, but it turned out just great. The loft is about 48mm:Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelfixed
Attachment 150214Attachment 150215Attachment 150216Attachment 150217Attachment 150218
All done. Will try it out in a couple nights when I'm sure the epoxy is all set. Thanks everybody for answering my questions - it's appreciated!
Very Nice,great work
