Only 450? I thought it was even higher... some of the tiny pieces of peek that I have seen are machined very small and finely. I think that might work very well for you. Superb work as usual!
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Only 450? I thought it was even higher... some of the tiny pieces of peek that I have seen are machined very small and finely. I think that might work very well for you. Superb work as usual!
OoooWee, Mike~ Nice work! :tu
Great work there Mike.
Looking fantastic Mike. Looks like you got that acrylic turned without a hitch. Did you feel as though the higher RPM helped?
Im thinkin ya got it dialed in chap. Their lookin sa..weet [emoji7]
Higher speed was a real game changer Andrew. Lathe sounds mean above 2500 rpm and for me, used to wood and metal work only, was faster than I ever ran before. Made all the difference in the world. I used the new test pieces to get comfortable at that speed and found even though it was spinning twice as fast, I was able to gain better tool control with a different grip, practice, and angle of edge presentation to work.
None of those plastic ones have been sanded yet, that's the finish just off the lathe. Seems faster also equals smoother on plastics if your edges are in good shape. Not so much the nylon, but the acrylic and peek, oh yea.
Owe you large thanks, and a free handle for the tip Andrew .. :tu
Fabbed up a stronger indexer for the jig I made, so hopefully these, and any subsequent units will be bang on 60' spacing. Now I need to figure a work table for home that will work with my lathe and allow me to do all this at home and not need to borrow the work mill at all.
Gonna scrounge all the peek and ptfe I can as well so I can try to make a few in two materials. The original had a removable cap with the knot installed in it, all mine thus far are one piece turnings with a faux seam at the cap line. Would be cool to make some with actual caps.
Like burl body with peek cap, ebony and faux ivory etc..
Anyway, that's where this is too now.
Oh yea, I got my pressure pot on the way now so will be able to muck with molding in a month or so too finally. I see a glitter brush on its way to Akron and parts unknown in the near future, hehe.
Thanks for the ideas, support and fun conversations gents..
Hope you all have a great weekend. I need to clean the shop and get busy. Lots of plastic dust bunnies this morning to cleanup. Stick to the cats like Velcro and get all over the house..
:beer1:
Good Irish boy like me is really liking the green one, great work mike., also are you thinking to maybe add some weight to replicate the metal,ones? Some buckshot or dimes in the handle? Tc
If you haven't sanded them yet, you really did good! I don't see any "spray" marks. When I sand them, I go 120, 220, 320, 400, then wet sand 600, 1k, 1500, 2k, and finally 2500. I sand at 800 RPM and keep it wet, wet, wet. Did I say keep it wet? It's much like final grinding a razor. If your fingers are getting hot, the material is also getting too hot. Sanding at high RPM is wrong, and just burns through good sand paper. Once I get the sanding done, I go to 1800RPM and using headlight Polish to achieve that glass like finish. Haven't found anything else that beats this process, other than continuing to sand past 2500 with micromesh. But it's just not necessary. My process leaves the slightest hint that the handle was hand spun, and I like that.
Thanks TC. I'm Irish as well, and planning a great shave Thursday. :tu
The wood handles would benefit from some added weight, maybe under the knot for sure. The plastic ones weigh in pretty close to the aluminum original I think. The original one I worked with was a hollow casting and surprisingly light.
Only thing I didn't think to do was weigh it dry while I had it.
I bought one of those easy cutter carbide tipped turning tools at lee valley, I use the round rad bit for the body and the finisher for the top and it just shaved off material like dust at that higher speed. Thanks for the wet sanding tips. Never gone wet on the wheel before and would have gone dry by default.