I thought it was interesting when I sent you an email offering $1,000,000.00 for that brush and you didn't reply.
The market is down at the moment so I don't have the ready cash for that and will have to wait for an uptick to repeat it.:shrug:
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Definitely, cocobolo is beautiful but you do have to take care with it. Not only can it cause respiratory issues if you inhale too much of it, but it can also cause irritation and rashes on your skin and even lead to you becoming allergic to other non-cocobolo woods that you'd otherwise be fine around. Also, finishing it can be difficult because of the high oil content. Personally, I've found CA to be the best finish for cocobolo as it really brings out the colour and depth of the grain pattern, but of course a CA finish is something of a chore in itself. Regardless of the finish, giving the wood a good wipe with mineral spirits is a good idea.
Can't wait to see how this one comes out!
Yup, Hugo has seen it all up here. Rarely impressed by my gadgets any more.
Interested more in the critters in the yard now that spring is near.
And regarding the finish, I use a few base coats of shellac on oily woods. Then build it up with varathane. Only way to make it stick to the likes of ebony etc. ca is a good choice as well and I use it a lot on pens..
:beer1:
Two coats on, going for more..
Attachment 304615
This one needs to be glass..
Man, that looks beautiful Mike.
I'm envisioning the cocobolo with a black brush cup.
Pete <:-}
And the last four finished up.
Coco, spalted maple, Madrone, Bog, ferrule matching, still to be determined..
Attachment 304624
Cheers.
Wow, they look great!
Mike you have my attention now!
A fellow member sent me another challenge.
The aforementioned ironwood rubberset challenge begins!
Attachment 304862
Test trimmed it on the lathe first to check hardness and rough shape it.
Attachment 304895
First critical pass, nothing snapped! Good 2 go.
Think it is going to look awesome too!
:tu
That does have a nice look to it.
Back to the lathe for trimming and clean up, quick acetone wipe to see what it’s lookin like.
Attachment 304963
Decided I want to hit the metal store after work tomorrow, get some hollow rod in bronze, aluminium, and brass, see what contrasting metal ferrules will bring to the mixes.
Taig should do that kind of work just fine.
:tu
Damn... that is a beautiful piece right there!
I wonder if stabilizing the handles after rough out then doing the finish pass might give the wood better defense from tearing out? Seems like on all the handles there’s little bits of tear out at the end of the fillet. I had that problem with a few handles I turned though they seemed to clean up with some patient sanding.
I can’t wait to see what you make one of those brush handles out of next.
That grain is really going to pop once you finish it. DIdn’t expect the grain to be so prominent.
The tear out seems more related to the tool direction during its passes. Unlike in traditional turning, this carver head spins like a dremel and travels up, and back down the piece. On the return passes the cutter is traveling against its cut rotation so the tear out occurs.
Really unless I change my program and only cut in one direction, which would double the machine cycle time and number of moves required, I’d rather sand it.
On my normal lathe I seal softer pieces to avoid tear out like you suggest, with great success.
:tu
Grabbed some brass. Dang that stuff is pricey! Maybe subtle use of brass only.
Some of your exotic material combined with either metal rings or metal furels will be pretty cool. It is an iconic handle style to use as a base too. I have a few and would consider more.
Trim rings, as well, or instead of ferrules, great ideas gents.
Don’t think I’ll ever attempt full metal carvings as the machine prolly isn’t up to it, except ‘maybe’ aluminium. But even that I doubt so small Taig turnings is the scope.
Brass or white metal, depending on contrast, or stacked, hmmm. :hmmm:
Thanks for the ongoing ideas.
:tu
IMHO the cost of the materials that are used in a project such as this compared to the skills, knowledge, ability, time, etc.that are invested in the final product are a relatively low percentage of the value of the final product.
:hmmm: Does that make sense?
I will post this anyway!:tu
I've turned some pewter on my wood lathe, so that could be another idea. It melts with a propane torch and one can make molds out of wood or even cardboard.
I remember your pewter projects tintin! :tu
Did some nice stuff there indeed.
For now, I’ll stick with other folks forge work and turn it into other stuff.
Attachment 305054
Had to modify some jaws to work, and made my first test ferrule.
Attachment 305055
But it works with certain woods to my eye.
Attachment 305056
Attachment 305057
Adds some heft at the top, but until I glue one up and really test it, hard to say if it’s “too much heft”.
Won’t have to worry about the ferrule ever splitting though.
:tu
Now to try aluminium.
I have a great brush made by Walleyeman that is quite a heave brush. It’s nice. It has the added bonus that if someone were trying to mug me in the bathroom it could be used as a weapon.
:-)
I like the look.
I could see where balance "might " become an issue.
Maybe you could balance it if needed with a brass or lead bottom plug.
I would worry more if it would stand well on the edge of the sink between passes.
Those look awesome. I'm colourblind so I my judgement always needs to be taken with a grain of salt, but the contrast in both tones and materials gives those brushes a really classy look.
Outstanding, Mike.
Yes, i agree. both good looking combos.
Made an ironwood ferrule for the ironwood project, to see what it looks like in a solid.
Attachment 305203
Here with its chosen synth flat top.
And here with a few others.
Attachment 305204
Up to Pete now to choose his cap combo and this one’s done.
:tu
Those are all really outstanding brushes. Looking forward to seeing how the beehive project works out!
Removing over half the weight of the brass by undercutting it from the inside.
Attachment 305283
Brings the endweight down to a normal value I think.
Attachment 305284
Now this works with the handle size.
:tu
Are you available for How Do I Think classes?
Thanks Tim, I’m available fridays after 6 pm for training,, oh wait, I thought you said
“how do I drink” classes,, never mind.
You don’t want any o this logic, I B a lil difrent..
:)
You do appear to dance to a different drummer. :tu
So the gent that put me on this current challenge initially, firmed up his choices and I’m bonding the heads in.
First I epoxy the interior of the ferrules themselves, right up to the edge hoping this step might reduce the likelihood of wood ferrule splits due to knot swelling, over time, by adding an extra adhesive stiffening ‘band’ before the knot is set.
Attachment 305466
I set my knots @ around 17-19 mm depth, depending on loft. Makes them a skosh firmer without being too stiff.
Attachment 305467
And here the complete brushes waiting to cure before shipping.
:beer1:
Awesome, Mike. They came out great.!
I figure as long as you don't actually soak the brush, as some do, you shouldn't have a problem with swelling of the knot in the ferrule.
I've yet to have a problem with this one, you sent.
Attachment 305472
The magna-maple mini! Glad she still lives Mike!
Finished the ironwood brush today as well. Brass, while a pain to work, adds a lil something classy to the look for sure. Works really well with the crazy undertones in the timber.
Attachment 305476
Attachment 305477
Opted not to apply lacquer to the brass as it could peel.
Some polish now and then, this’ll last forever.
Really pleased with how these are turning out repeatedly.
Cheers gents.