W&B FBU purist resto

What to do? I haven't had my hands on too many FBU's, so I would like a purist's opinion on how to handle this one.
I want it as original as possible, so the scales are going to stay. I'm not sure I'll do anything at all to them. On either side of the pin there is a "T" and an "X" which I assume stands for Texas ( as it was found in Texas). There is also some other script that I cannot make out.


The blade does have some scratches from a wire brush and a nice spot of pitting right on top of the tip. This is what I'm most concerned with.



I'm thinking of approaching the brush marks with some 800 grit, and see how that looks. The tip would require much heavier sanding, so I may just chalk it up to character.


I really don't want to unpin it, so if anyone has some input or guidance I'd really appreciate it.Attachment 224944Attachment 224945Attachment 224946Attachment 224947Attachment 224948Attachment 224949Attachment 224950Attachment 224951Attachment 224952Attachment 224953Attachment 224954Attachment 224955 The hinge does not move at all, like most old blades do with worn out pivot holes ( it could very well be filled with gunk). All I've done so far is give it a two day soak in neatsfoot oil, and then dried it off.

Great find. If you are really a purist, just polish it with some metal polisher, soak it overnight in neatsfoot oil, desinfect the blade, hone it and be happy. Good things don't need to be beautiful. Some of my best shavers are kept with their scars, devil spits, pitting... ;)
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When I received mine, it was in 100% original condition. Aside from honing and a rub down with Renaissance Wax, I chose to do nothing.

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I think if I had yours, I'd simply try to polish out the scratches, maybe a ScotchBrite pad with some Maas, then just Maas and a soft 100% cotton rag. Otherwise, it's got tons of character and honest, well earned patina. Definitely take a minimalist approach. If it required restoration, it would be a different situation, but yours looks pretty good, and after all, it's survived 130 (+/-) years without any restoration and is thriving nicely.

Let it keep it's character. There's plenty of shiny ones out there :).

Indeed. Some deserve the minimal approach! They are only original once. Nice to keep some of that at times!

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It would seem that your FBU is an earlier example with the thin tail and more slender tang?

Well, I may not identify as a purist, but I believe each blade requires a differentiated approach. So with this one I want to touch as little as possible while restoring function.

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

Indeed. Some deserve the minimal approach! They are only original once. Nice to keep some of that at times!

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Great minds frequently think alike Tom. ;)

Those are some fine examples! I'll try the scotch bright pad and post a follow up.

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It would seem that your FBU is an earlier example with the thin tail and more slender tang?

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I really would not be the one to ask. Perhaps someone could chime in. I'm glad you mentioned that as it is something I noticed when compared with my other FBU, which looks similar to the one you have pictured on the left.

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Originally Posted by PR357

Well, I may not identify as a purist, but I believe each blade requires a differentiated approach. So with this one I want to touch as little as possible while restoring function.

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Unpinning the top is a good idea, but if that is not an option, I have simply rubbed these blades with a scrap of crocus cloth with WD40, CroOx powder. Then a light polish. Tough parts like the nose of yours will need the wire brush, at least. Q-tips, damp and loaded with Comet or Ajax and some work inside the scales, You can clean it all up.

Although not opposed completely to the 'purist' approach, in this case since this razor was already restored at some point in the past...it obviously was re-ground...I'd opt for another restore. :shrug:

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Originally Posted by Wolfpack34

Although not opposed completely to the 'purist' approach, in this case since this razor was already restored at some point in the past...it obviously was re-ground...I'd opt for another restore. :shrug:

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Yes! Sometimes LOTS of work becomes necessary! :eek: It can still be righteous! ;)

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You may be able to free up the pivot with the WD-40 by working it back and fourth and rinse with WD and repeat. Keep going till the WD runs out clean. Running some thread through it back and fourth wouldn't hurt either. Unless you go for a restore.

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I have one too. Pretty much all I have done with it was soak it in neatsfoot and then wax it with renwax and of course hone it. It has obviously been well loved and looked after for a very very long time. It likely has gunk and rust at the pivot, but that will take away from my perfect original razor if I touch a single thing, so that is how she will stay. One of the few that I plan on being the custodian of until the end of my lifespan.

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Originally Posted by RezDog

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I have one too. Pretty much all I have done with it was soak it in neatsfoot and then wax it with renwax and of course hone it. It has obviously been well loved and looked after for a very very long time. It likely has gunk and rust at the pivot, but that will take away from my perfect original razor if I touch a single thing, so that is how she will stay. One of the few that I plan on being the custodian of until the end of my lifespan.

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Betcha that one shaves a treat! :D


So, PR! Seems your thread has turned into a razor show!
This subforum is generally for completed razors.
Get the project going in the workshop subforum.
Guys will help and notsomuch! :rofl2:

You know it Tom!

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Originally Posted by Wolfpack34

Although not opposed completely to the 'purist' approach, in this case since this razor was already restored at some point in the past...it obviously was re-ground...I'd opt for another restore. :shrug:

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I'm curious as to what tells you that it was re-ground? How thin it is?

Mike will elaborate,, but IMO you can see that your stabilizer is a 1 1/2 job by comparing it to Entropy's original wedge grind and the double stabilizers of my hollow examples. As they reground wedge blades, they thinned them out. Another stabilizer of thicker material than the reground blade, provided a gradual 'stair step' to maintain strength and integrity.
As Wolfpack mentioned, your blade shows evidence of earlier regrinding and later attempted restoration likely erased much of that.

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Originally Posted by Wolfpack34

Although not opposed completely to the 'purist' approach, in this case since this razor was already restored at some point in the past...it obviously was re-ground...I'd opt for another restore. :shrug:

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Your point is valid. I got so hung up on fine details I didn't even look at the stabilizers lol. Forrest through the trees, and all...:p

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

Mike will elaborate,, but IMO you can see that your stabilizer is a 1 1/2 job by comparing it to Entropy's original wedge grind and the double stabilizers of my hollow examples. As they reground wedge blades, they thinned them out. Another stabilizer of thicker material than the reground blade, provided a gradual 'stair step' to maintain strength and integrity.
As Wolfpack mentioned, your blade shows evidence of earlier regrinding and later attempted restoration likely erased much of that.

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I don't have anything more to add...You hit the nail on the head Tom!

The position of that rusty pitted spot on the top tip of the spine is in an excellent position I think.
Easy to remove, compared to other places.

I would tape the cutting edge for safety . Turn it upside down. Tape or tack some coarse glass paper to a flat surface , Check your angles and with a little WD40 and start sanding.
Bobs your uncle;)

Thanks for all the tips and info.

Because its already been worked once, I'm going to go with my original plan to just sand enough to remove those wire brush marks, and then work up to a light polish.

Feems reafonable