Thread: W&B FBU purist resto

Well, I may not identify as a purist, but I believe each blade requires a differentiated approach. So with this one I want to touch as little as possible while restoring function.

Originally Posted by PR357

Well, I may not identify as a purist, but I believe each blade requires a differentiated approach. So with this one I want to touch as little as possible while restoring function.

Unpinning the top is a good idea, but if that is not an option, I have simply rubbed these blades with a scrap of crocus cloth with WD40, CroOx powder. Then a light polish. Tough parts like the nose of yours will need the wire brush, at least. Q-tips, damp and loaded with Comet or Ajax and some work inside the scales, You can clean it all up.

Although not opposed completely to the 'purist' approach, in this case since this razor was already restored at some point in the past...it obviously was re-ground...I'd opt for another restore.

Originally Posted by Wolfpack34

Although not opposed completely to the 'purist' approach, in this case since this razor was already restored at some point in the past...it obviously was re-ground...I'd opt for another restore.

Yes! Sometimes LOTS of work becomes necessary! It can still be righteous!

You may be able to free up the pivot with the WD-40 by working it back and fourth and rinse with WD and repeat. Keep going till the WD runs out clean. Running some thread through it back and fourth wouldn't hurt either. Unless you go for a restore.

Originally Posted by Wolfpack34

Although not opposed completely to the 'purist' approach, in this case since this razor was already restored at some point in the past...it obviously was re-ground...I'd opt for another restore.

I'm curious as to what tells you that it was re-ground? How thin it is?

Mike will elaborate,, but IMO you can see that your stabilizer is a 1 1/2 job by comparing it to Entropy's original wedge grind and the double stabilizers of my hollow examples. As they reground wedge blades, they thinned them out. Another stabilizer of thicker material than the reground blade, provided a gradual 'stair step' to maintain strength and integrity.
As Wolfpack mentioned, your blade shows evidence of earlier regrinding and later attempted restoration likely erased much of that.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Mike will elaborate,, but IMO you can see that your stabilizer is a 1 1/2 job by comparing it to Entropy's original wedge grind and the double stabilizers of my hollow examples. As they reground wedge blades, they thinned them out. Another stabilizer of thicker material than the reground blade, provided a gradual 'stair step' to maintain strength and integrity.
As Wolfpack mentioned, your blade shows evidence of earlier regrinding and later attempted restoration likely erased much of that.

I don't have anything more to add...You hit the nail on the head Tom!

The position of that rusty pitted spot on the top tip of the spine is in an excellent position I think.
Easy to remove, compared to other places.

I would tape the cutting edge for safety . Turn it upside down. Tape or tack some coarse glass paper to a flat surface , Check your angles and with a little WD40 and start sanding.
Bobs your uncle

Originally Posted by Wolfpack34

Although not opposed completely to the 'purist' approach, in this case since this razor was already restored at some point in the past...it obviously was re-ground...I'd opt for another restore.

Your point is valid. I got so hung up on fine details I didn't even look at the stabilizers lol. Forrest through the trees, and all...