Sheffied LE Grelot restoration w/pics

Hello,
New here but I been trying my hand at cleaning up some ebay find razors. I found this razor and really like the spine. Prolblem is the tip is broken off, i have a full beard and dont completley shave with any type of razor so I don't have the best idea of what to do with this thing. Debating shortining it up.

The scales are shot. Not sure what happened to this poor thing. Im looking for some ironwood or cocobolo wood to make new scales. Blade has some pitting but ill clean most of it up.

Not sure how to post a picture but i took a bunch...

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The file work is nice, but that is probably not your best choice for your first restore job because shortening a blade is not as simple as it seems! As for the wood, you can get thin stock wood from various woodworking and craft stores. However, those scales in your post will work fine unless there is a flaw I can't see from your pictures...
Spend some time looking at the threads in this section to get some ideas, and maybe consider project razors that just needs sanding and polishing and not cutting and grinding until you get a few under your belt:)
Good luck!

Thanks for the advice. The scales are both cracked. Theres not much around my area for woodcraft type places so i will prolbably order some online. I plan on using my lazer macine to cut the scales and make some sort of texture/ logo. I will take pictures of the process. Its mostley an expiriment on this one.

Good candidate for experimenting but for shaving I would look for something in better condition. Its a shame the blade is broken, love that spine work!

Some guys will draw an outline of the blade on a piece paper then draw (design) scale shape they want, cut the scale design out of the paper, lay the pattern on the wood/acrylic, etc. and trace the outline of the pattern onto the scale material. Have done that myself and came up with some nice designs.

I shortened the blade up. unfortunately I couldn't cut it in a way to save the Sheffield logo. I think at this point i will just remove the logo on the blade and polish it. If i can find an image of there logo i will etch it back on but i didnt see any with a google search. The spine still looks good. This is just rough cut and quick shapeing.

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Nice clean up mate.
But I hope the mark in the pic about 1/3 from the heal is just from the pic and not a crack that it looks like

Cleaned the razor up and gave it a quick buff.
I cheated alot on cleaning this up. As you can see theres some scratches from sanding. I will finish cleaning it up another day.

I cut out some scales from some cheep wood, just as an experiment.i think that will work out well. It takes a tenth of the time the scroll saw does. Once it is set up, but i saved the template for future projects. I may actually use a different style for this razor...

Looks like a crack in the picture but its not.


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Re contoured the end

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Looks very good for a first shortening attempt!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TwistedOak

Looks very good for a first shortening attempt!

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Much obliged

I ordered scale material from bell forest products. In the mean time i cleaned up this one and put it back together today. Came out good, i did not remove all the pitting on this one and you can see that. This blade has been ground down more towards the end but i got it sharp and shaving.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by matt9923

Re contoured the end

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Attachment 232489Was having truble with this picture

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Got the wood, havent decided whitch to use.

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I went with the wenge, since i had to remove material from the blade tip i made the scales shorter so they would fit correctly.

Can somone explain why some razors have a stop pin. The one razor i have handled with a stop pin didnt even stop the blade befor the blade contacted the scales? Should i use on on this razor?

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the third pin is not a stop pin mate, they are only to keep the scales spread.
I have a couple also & none do (or should) actually hit the blade
often on blades with gold wash etc to stop it rubbing off

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Substance

the third pin is not a stop pin mate, they are only to keep the scales spread.
I have a couple also & none do (or should) actually hit the blade
often on blades with gold wash etc to stop it rubbing off

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Thanks for the info, i recall reading that on here a while back now that you mention it.

Cheers

Very nice work matt9923. The only thing I would add is to spend a bit more on the blade you choose to restore, there are so many better candidates worthy of your obvious talent and patience.

Thank you for the support. I agrre but these are just to better understand what is involved. I have some reserch to do on what blades are worth more. If you have any resources in mind for that please share! Or i will just sift through the posts on here.

Started by glueing the two scales together with a couple dabs of glue. Roughed out the shape with the 1" belt. Started with 220 thru 1200 by hand. Came out pretty good for a first attempt. Im not sire how to finish them, i was thinking epoxy? Also do yall think one pin in the back is enough? Guess looking at it, i can only use one, my original idea was to use two but its not as wide as i planned.
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They look pretty good! You may want to carefully glue them back together to drill the pivot and wedge pin holes

Thanks for the advice, i will do that. Beginers mistake, i wasnt sure if they were even so i got ahead of myself spliting them apart. Hopefully the next one will go smoother.