Suminagashi custom straight razor - without happy end

I made this razor for a custom order. This razor was cursed, I think. I had a lot of problem with the heat treat and the acryl scales. I made the blade two times and the scales three times. After I sent to my customer. The edge was not perfect and after a few days the transparent acryl scales has broken. I refound the whole money, of course. Not a happy story but such is life.

Despite of the negative story I hope you will like the razor. :)

• Multi-Layered Takefu Suminagashi steel hardened to HRC 61
• 13/16" (21mm) wide blade
• Half hollow grind
• 70mm cutting edge
• Transparent acrylic scales with turquoise wedge
• Teflon pivot bearing washers
• Nickel-silver wedge/spacer pin with stainless steel washers
• Adjustable stainless steel pivot pins

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The broken scales

Attachment 239969

very nice work, aesthetically speaking!, Too bad for the scales,.. I think it would be a shame not to try some other material with similar effect (tempered glass laminate maybe)?

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Originally Posted by gregg71

...snip... After I sent to my customer. The edge was not perfect and after a few days the transparent acryl scales has broken. I refound the whole money, of course. Not a happy story but such is life.

Despite of the negative story I hope you will like the razor. :)

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A very nice job of work!:chapeau
A secret to making Acrylic and plastic scales. Do almost all the shaping by hand using a scraper and/ or sandpaper. If the scale gets heated by a buffer, the surface loses plasticizer (lágyító is close to the meaning) That substance keeps the plastic somewhat flexible even when in use. The loss of plasticizer makes the plastic prone to crazing or cracking because the surface is harder than the inside.
Experiment with some acrylic ( not any thing you wish to use for any razor) that you buff very hard to get the contour correct.
Let it sett overnight to stabilize and then pour some alcohol onto it. Or bend it a little or pin it. You may see what I am speaking of. Often the damage does not appear till a an amount of time after the surface is polished. That is what you experienced here.
It has happened to me when I was in industry and later if I got too aggressive with my polishing of scales.
Again, you did a beautiful job of work!
~Richard

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Originally Posted by miha

very nice work, aesthetically speaking!, Too bad for the scales,.. I think it would be a shame not to try some other material with similar effect (tempered glass laminate maybe)?

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I agree with miha. I would be a shame not to see that sucker complete.

Thanks for the kind words. I do not deal with this razor any more, I think. Maybe once a time....

Richard,

thank you very much. Good advice, thanks. I think the acryl dont worth the hard work at all. If everything is ok, it can also easily scratching. There are a lot of nice materials I will choose from them in the future. :)

I love the razor. You have a brilliant vision for making it. I hope once some time passes you will keep working on it. Thanks for sharing the story.

I'm sure that you will figure something out with the scale material and it will be better than before! That blade has nothing but potential!! (I know how it's going to shave!!)

Pete <:-}

I think it would look nice with some decorative metal liners or pivot cap.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Thank you, guys for the nice words!

I know how it's going to shave!! - Pete, everything went well with your razor, thanks. But it was made from an other bar of suminagashi steel. Last time I quenched in water instead of oil this steel. This is very risky but worked well for me. :)

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Originally Posted by gregg71

Richard,

thank you very much. Good advice, thanks. I think the acryl dont worth the hard work at all. If everything is ok, it can also easily scratching. There are a lot of nice materials I will choose from them in the future. :)

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Acrilyc is very much worth it IMHO. If you want to avoid scratches being very visible use color acrylic, the transparent stuff shows even minor scratches.

I do not know how you made the scales, but I have never had issues with breaking because of buffing. I have not noticed any heat build up, but I only buff to polish after hand sanding for the fine finish and smoothing the contours.

Thanks Stefan,

I am sure you are right but my customer wanted from tranparent acryl. It is also possible that you work with other types of plastic, which I like to get. Could you send me a link to an online shop?

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Originally Posted by mainaman

Acrilyc is very much worth it IMHO. If you want to avoid scratches being very visible use color acrylic, the transparent stuff shows even minor scratches.

I do not know how you made the scales, but I have never had issues with breaking because of buffing. I have not noticed any heat build up, but I only buff to polish after hand sanding for the fine finish and smoothing the contours.

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I do the same as Stefan.

My buffer has 2 1/2 inch wheels and I use Blue and then White rubbing compound. As others said, a light touch is mandatory.

Buffing this way really brings out the 3D effects of kirinite. Learned that from Bruno.

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Originally Posted by rolodave

I do the same as Stefan.

My buffer has 2 1/2 inch wheels and I use Blue and then White rubbing compound. As others said, a light touch is mandatory.

Buffing this way really brings out the 3D effects of kirinite. Learned that from Bruno.

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IME Kirinite is easier to buff than acrylic, scratches can be completely removed with not much effort. Visually ,I think , it is superior to acrylic.

And very importantly, it doesn't stink up the place.
Sanding acryclic creates a godawful solvent stench :)

Mmm, Kirinite would be a Great choice or perhaps Linear Filligree ? as it would really go with that fine Razor.

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Originally Posted by FAL

Mmm, Kirinite would be a Great choice or perhaps Linear Filligree ? as it would really go with that fine Razor.

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Thanks, but my customer ask the transparent acrylic. I had no choice.

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Originally Posted by gregg71

Thanks, but my customer ask the transparent acrylic. I had no choice.

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Technically, you could refuse :)
I've refused a couple of projects where I decided that what the customer wanted would not work, or what he wanted was not something I wanted to make for various reasons. I'd rather not do a project, than do a project I could not stand behind.

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Originally Posted by Bruno

Technically, you could refuse :)
I've refused a couple of projects where I decided that what the customer wanted would not work, or what he wanted was not something I wanted to make for various reasons. I'd rather not do a project, than do a project I could not stand behind.

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Yes, of course. But I have never work with acrylic before than I accepted. Next time I won't do. ;)