Thread: Suminagashi custom straight razor - without happy end

Richard,

thank you very much. Good advice, thanks. I think the acryl dont worth the hard work at all. If everything is ok, it can also easily scratching. There are a lot of nice materials I will choose from them in the future.

I love the razor. You have a brilliant vision for making it. I hope once some time passes you will keep working on it. Thanks for sharing the story.

I'm sure that you will figure something out with the scale material and it will be better than before! That blade has nothing but potential!! (I know how it's going to shave!!)

Pete <:-}

Thank you, guys for the nice words!

I know how it's going to shave!! - Pete, everything went well with your razor, thanks. But it was made from an other bar of suminagashi steel. Last time I quenched in water instead of oil this steel. This is very risky but worked well for me.

Originally Posted by gregg71

Richard,

thank you very much. Good advice, thanks. I think the acryl dont worth the hard work at all. If everything is ok, it can also easily scratching. There are a lot of nice materials I will choose from them in the future.

Acrilyc is very much worth it IMHO. If you want to avoid scratches being very visible use color acrylic, the transparent stuff shows even minor scratches.

I do not know how you made the scales, but I have never had issues with breaking because of buffing. I have not noticed any heat build up, but I only buff to polish after hand sanding for the fine finish and smoothing the contours.

Thanks Stefan,

I am sure you are right but my customer wanted from tranparent acryl. It is also possible that you work with other types of plastic, which I like to get. Could you send me a link to an online shop?

Originally Posted by mainaman

Acrilyc is very much worth it IMHO. If you want to avoid scratches being very visible use color acrylic, the transparent stuff shows even minor scratches.

I do not know how you made the scales, but I have never had issues with breaking because of buffing. I have not noticed any heat build up, but I only buff to polish after hand sanding for the fine finish and smoothing the contours.

I do the same as Stefan.

My buffer has 2 1/2 inch wheels and I use Blue and then White rubbing compound. As others said, a light touch is mandatory.

Buffing this way really brings out the 3D effects of kirinite. Learned that from Bruno.

Originally Posted by rolodave

I do the same as Stefan.

My buffer has 2 1/2 inch wheels and I use Blue and then White rubbing compound. As others said, a light touch is mandatory.

Buffing this way really brings out the 3D effects of kirinite. Learned that from Bruno.

IME Kirinite is easier to buff than acrylic, scratches can be completely removed with not much effort. Visually ,I think , it is superior to acrylic.

And very importantly, it doesn't stink up the place.
Sanding acryclic creates a godawful solvent stench

Mmm, Kirinite would be a Great choice or perhaps Linear Filligree ? as it would really go with that fine Razor.