Gave it a shot.

[dshaves]

I have no idea what I am doing trying to remove Rust from razors but I thought I would give it a shot on this wade and butcher frameback and this G. Johnson & co.

Mainly removing the rust so I can hone them and shave with some Sheffield steel for the first time on the WB. The G Johnson didn’t have much rust.

I picked up this blade for $8 WB frameback 6/8” 160 SP 240 SP then 2000 SP and polished with blue magic. These are grits I had in possession.

I picked up this blade for $15 G Johnson 13/16” 2000 SP then blue magic polish. I did quite a few rounds of blue magic.

I never let the blade get warm and I used oil for Lube.

[Geezer]

I see that you have done a creditable job! Nice and yew didn't try to rush the job which made it work out well for you!
Thanks
~Richard

[Christian1]

Nice work on the rust removal. If you are ever in store I would get some 800 sandpaper for the frame back if you want to remove more scratches. Enjoy the shaves

[RezDog]

Slow and steady does it. 230 to 2000 is a really big jump. I agree that smaller steps makes it a little easier. Sometimes we have to make do with what we have. I often have to wait for the mailman to deliver sandpaper simply because it is a long way away, it’s not as simple as just going to the hardware store. Also if you are looking for a simple clean up 0000 steel wool and polish can do a lot, especially when combined with a lot of elbow grease. Keep up the good work.

[Gasman]

Yep. Smaller steps on the paper grits. And go up and down with one grit, then side to side with the next. Trying to finish in the up and xown direction. Steel wool or synthetic steel wool works wonders as a finish along with some polish.
You did a fine job for a first try. Slow and steady. I normally have to come back to a blade.a.few.times over 3 or 4 days as i hate to sand.

[dshaves]

Thanks for the encouragement, advice and future suggestions! I really appreciate it!

[RazorAddict]

Tempered steel is just in itself harder than woodpecker lips- nice job and great show of determination to bring sandpaper at those blades brother!! Small suggestion for future projects.... order a few grades of diamond lapping film. A sheet of 60 micron and then progress down to 30,15,9,and finish off with 3mic film...... usually the 9 is as far down as one goes- the 3 is for super OCD folks The diamond film has a more aggressive "bite" into tempered steel and I feel it makes the job more satisfying when you can see the material being removed with each pass.... nothing more rewarding than bringing new life to something time forgot for a hundred years!! just my two cents Sir!!

[sharptonn]

Looks great.
A razor is an instrument. You have them clean.
They are also antiques! You have stopped at a good time. Well- done.
Now they need to shave!

[MrZ]

You got a sweet deal on that WB. It looks to be in pretty fine shape. I have a feeling that you will be doing more work in that thing in the near future. Once you see what these guys can do, and get the advice that they freely offer, you will be hooked on this razor thing.
Good work man and welcome to the addiction.

[JP5]

Wish I could find a frame back for $8. Great buy.
I've never found one. You did a nice job cleaning them up. After taking apart razors for rescaling that never got finished in the beginning I found out less can be more with straight Razors.
The scales look better. Did you just polished them or what? I recently tried polishing some dull horn scales and I was pretty happy with the results. I guess the abrasive in it breaks up the dirt/grime on the surface as well.

Unless you have experience honing smiling razor blades, I would have them done professionally. If not done correctly you can end up with an uneven bevel that looks bad. Ask me how I learned that.
Send a nice big smiling blade gssixgun and got it back with a thin even bevel. A pro will be able to sterilize the blade as well so you know it is completely clean.