Thread: Expensive sawdust, working out the lathe and turning brushes

To each his own. You can't seriously tell me that this brush lacks depth though: http://straightrazorpalace.com/brush...huya-burl.html

I'll give a big +1 to CA. To impart depth you could do a coat or 2 of oil, then topcoat with CA.
I'm just getting started on the lathe, but CA seems like the best finish for brushes I've tried to far when you need waterproofing.

I've been considering trying this out myself. Thanks for the inspiration. I've really got to get my garage cleared out.

That is some beautiful wood and woodwork!!!

The ones I have seen have been much flatter, almost imitation looking. I suppose I should give it a try even if it is simply for the experience of having used it.

Originally Posted by Philadelph

To each his own. You can't seriously tell me that this brush lacks depth though: http://straightrazorpalace.com/brush...huya-burl.html

CA or resin type (boat finishes) will fail over time. Good start, stabilize the wood before application of finish. Minwax makes a pretty good wood hardener. As far as CA finish goes, use a very thin type for the first couple coats so you get penetration, then go on to a medium CA for build (it'll give you that depth you're looking for). Once you are satisfied with the amount of coats, maybe 6 to 8, sand and polish. I usually go up to 1500 grit, then polish it with compounds until it looks like glass.

Can't wait to see the finished brushes..... especially the burls..
Good work.

Guys who make split bamboo fly rods finish the rods with spar varnish. To avoid the varnish running while it dries they have it mounted in a "turner" that uses a rotisserie motor. That turns it very slowly.

Just an idea for you,

Originally Posted by randydance062449

Guys who make split bamboo fly rods finish the rods with spar varnish. To avoid the varnish running while it dries they have it mounted in a "turner" that uses a rotisserie motor. That turns it very slowly.

Just an idea for you,

Just happen to have that exact same rig for the same reason. Dad use to build his own fly rods, still does now and then.

I have been thinking of stabilizing my own wood. It is little more than resin oil like tong oil, linseed oil, etc. The wood is submerged in the stabilizing compound and then held in a vacuum to allow the oils to fully penetrate the wood. Then you have to let it dry for quite some time. I may play with that as well.

Here's a closeup of a brush I did with CA.
My turning technique is a little different, I held the stock with a chuck at one side instead of between two centers.

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/l...s_sept9103.jpg

Nice looking handles. Can't wait to see them finished with some silvertip in there.