No dremel work to the blade. Just a straight-up re-scale.
before shot, and then after
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No dremel work to the blade. Just a straight-up re-scale.
before shot, and then after
Beautiful looking scales. They give that blade a real classy look. GREAT WORK!!
That's stunning! The scales really enhance the blade. I love the wedge, & the fact that you've transferred the Tuckmar badge over. I actually think it looks ok without a thumbnotch too!
very nicely done :rock:
Nice one! Congrats...:bow
I really like this one. Great choice to leave the lines simple and clean.
How does it shave?
I think you did a bang up job with those scales. I can't help but see the first picture and have the traditionalist that I am in me scream, "those original scales were sweet! Arghhhh!". Were the original scales really in that pristine condition??
Chris L
It's the skin that the razor was born in and as far as the condition of the scales, they were an exceptional specimen.
Don't get me wrong, your scales are very very nice and I especially like how you did the spacer. I was just expecting to see some cracked, damaged or unrepairable original scales.
Chris L
Major improvement! Love the spacer color! :)
some of your best work! how do you layer the wood with the shiny top or is that the finish built up sanded etc.?? how come a screw instead of a pin, can you adjust the tension?
Nice job ! Like the timber acrylic. Keeps the traditional feel very nicely... & then some.
Faux timber celluloid was popular once but this takes it a step further:tu:tu
NO dremel work?!?! ;)
I laminate the wood veneer to the acrylic. I find it gives a very nice deep look to the wood.
Yes, I use the screw for adjustable tension, as well as being able to mix and match scales if I so choose. That doesn't happen very often, but sometimes I've changed scales on my razors until I find the "right" one for that razor. Some scales I can do "pinless" at the wedge, like this one (I like the pinless look), depending on the materials I'm using, others need the screw there too.