A San Mai in progress

Hey guys, this a 7/8 (measured from the stone contact point on the spine, 8/8 high) near wedge

San Mai construction, comprised of an O1 core, with 88 layers of 1084 and 15N20 on either side. The last one I did, had a black etched core
this one I polished.

As you can see, it has a slight smile, and a barbers notch.

I now have to choose scales, likely going to go with horn. Stay tuned...

Thanks for looking, comments welcomed!

http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps7fba7f8a.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps1d91e59d.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps1b5fc5dd.jpg

Hoooo. Beautiful job. Want!

Cheers.

Looking great Pierre

Thats beautiful, looking forward to seeing the finished result.
I think horn would be a nice choice.
Grant

Looking great! I don't know what San Mai is, but that is one good looking razor. Good luck with the scales.

San mai is done a lot in kitchen knives. A hard core is sandwiched between two softer pieces of steel and forge welded. Sometimes the core only goes part way to the spine. It was don to be able to make the core quite hard, and the softer sides would support the core.

In this one the O1 core goes from edge to spine, and the damascus/pattern welded steel on the sides, is made of a fully hardenable steel.

Here is the process...
First the steels are forged for the damascus pattern...
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...icture1625.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...icture1624.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...icture1635.jpg

The billet is cleaned up... and the damascus sides are forged to the core...
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...icture1631.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...icture1632.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...icture1623.jpg

Then it is annealed to make it easier to work with...
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...icture1636.jpg

After all that, the bar is cut in to manageable pieces...
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...0117-00380.jpg

Portioned...
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...0117-00381.jpg

And a light etch, to check core alignment...
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...0117-00382.jpg
and pattern density...
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...0117-00384.jpg

Then the profile is laid out, tang hole drilled, and hollow grinding begins...
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...0117-00385.jpg

Then the grinding is taken to about 80%, the blade is heat treated, and after the grinding is finished...
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...0117-00386.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture025.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...Picture026.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/IMG_0003.jpg

Can't wait to see your finished straight. Thanks for sharing the process that blade is just beautiful to look at.

Very nice looking blades there Pierre, and neat to see your process of making them. The real question is though...how do they shave?

Thanks for the step by step, and a peek into your shop. I wish I had all your tools. Doing San Mai really makes sense - if you go with straight damascus, it is questionable whether the bladewill ever really will hold an edge. Once again, those old Japanese bladesmiths had it right. And, as always, your work is exceptional. Congratulations.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by skipnord

... Doing San Mai really makes sense - if you go with straight damascus, it is questionable whether the bladewill ever really will hold an edge. ...

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Hmm, Skip you need to take another shot at that statement. There is a good reason for San Mai, but not because the pattern welded material is suspect. Pierre's mix of 1084/15N20 will produce a pretty good carbon content of 0.8% if he doesn't over cook it for long enough to burn away any. Looking at his tool set, it's not likely to lose enough to make a difference in steel quality. :)

Lord knows you have forgotten more than I every knew, Mike, so I'll definitely retract that. I sometimes have been know to repeat what I have heard, without checking for accuracy - the old ass-ume practice. What I had heard was that it was sometimes difficult to get a shaving quality edge on (some?) damascus. If that's wrong, so be it. Thanks for the correction, sensei. How are things going in western Washington?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by skipnord

Lord knows you have forgotten more than I every knew, Mike, so I'll definitely retract that. I sometimes have been know to repeat what I have heard, without checking for accuracy - the old ass-ume practice. What I had heard was that it was sometimes difficult to get a shaving quality edge on (some?) damascus. If that's wrong, so be it. Thanks for the correction, sensei. How are things going in western Washington?

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Maybe you were thinking of those damascus things that change steel along the edge, not a homogenous steeled edge.

That's what I was thinking. Is it an issue if the pattern welded steel IS the edge - or will the 15N20 portion take just as good an edge as carbon steel????? Maybe I was thinking a a pure nickel layer.

Clearly by your pictures you have limited experience in this sort of manufacturing.. I would invite you to see my set up in my garage where I have a dremmel, cheap band saw, box of sand paper and a belt sander...Okay, I feel pathetic in your presence..... Very cool of you to show the process, I hope you pic the scale making too.

:deal::y That look sweet Pierre

Excellent thread, thanks for the step by step. Great looking blade too.

Stu

Continuation, here are a few pics finishing the build...

I went with Horn, and a nickel silver wedge.
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...psac04eb94.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...psa9723133.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps32f35057.jpg
Fitting the wedge...
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps7649695a.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...psc8dc44ce.jpg
These puppies are translucent!! :y
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps522e0a58.jpg

And complete...
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps8c5d9288.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...pscbe23385.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps6844498c.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...psba2439dc.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps19b5dbe1.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps2c546267.jpg

I have to agree very nice. I am quite taken with it.

Skip, there is no wrong answer, just a different reason.

1. Of the steels mentioned, they will be sufficient quality collectively or individually to take and hold an edge by themselves. So would an homogenous monosteel core.
2. Pure nickel is definitely to be avoided, especially on the edge, as it never gets hard.
3. But, if your last fold is dead center, the possibility of a weld inclusion or flaw at the edge is the danger. Using a san mai (three layer) construction puts the center core in the center (if welding and hammering techniques keep it there) and any welding flaw will more likely occur, if so, on the sides of the blade where the flaws will not be fatal to the usefulness of the blade.

Just working the thought processes a little. ;)

That's correct. Traditionally, it was a way to reduce wasting your top grade steel (tamahagane) by cladding a high carbon core with a milder steel, or even iron. When hardened, the core took the higher hardness, and the softer sides gave the blade support.

Excellent work Pierre! Love how this one came out!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by skipnord

That's what I was thinking. Is it an issue if the pattern welded steel IS the edge - or will the 15N20 portion take just as good an edge as carbon steel????? Maybe I was thinking a a pure nickel layer.

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The edge will be just as good. After the folding and welding, the carbon content is homogenous. The additional nickel will not have a noticeable impact. At least not to my experience.

Could you please post a top view picture of the spine, from toe to tang?
I am wondering about something. Specifically, I would like to see how the thickness of the spine evolves from the toe to the tang :)

Beautiful ! :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bruno

The edge will be just as good. After the folding and welding, the carbon content is homogenous. The additional nickel will not have a noticeable impact. At least not to my experience.

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I concur. I have made many knives of 15N20 alone. The chemistry is the same as 1075 w/2% nickel. If anything the nickel would add a little stain resistance but they are not stainless. The food groups do not seem to care one bit. ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bruno

Could you please post a top view picture of the spine, from toe to tang?
I am wondering about something. Specifically, I would like to see how the thickness of the spine evolves from the toe to the tang :)

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Here you go Bruno, as requested, added a fully open shot as well...
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps74210d7b.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps0331bc3c.jpg

That blade is classic looking! Subtle bling, I like it!

I just stumbled across this & I found it very interesting! Excellent work Pierre.

Thanks for the build process, very inspiring! Awesome razor