You my friend just got your first Thumbs Up for the video! :tu
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I don't know how this will look when I post it, but I was wondering if by chance this is the pesky dashboard Red Light that you've spoken of?
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Yup, that’s the generator light..very noticeable in the dark.
May still opt for the single wire alternator down the road, if only to do away with that flicker.
And thanks for the thumbs up Roy, hehe.
Very cool video Mike.
The look on your face when your wife pans the camera over says it all.
You should be very proud!
Pete <:-}
Not sure if I disable it that the excite signal to start the alternator charging will still occur.
Might just use a small dot of electrical tape for the short term. May still have an issue with the charging circuit the light is trying to tell me about I still haven’t learned.
The poor voltage on the right headlight, or some parasitic drain off the old heater fan circuit maybe?
Lots to chase and resolve still. The old heater, while still installed, has no power to it from the Rheostat on the dash. No idea if the fan windings are good etc. enough residual heat comes through the foot well, I don’t really think i’ll Need the heater, but the defrost air to the windshield will be necessary on dewy fall runs I can assume.
Beat the rain yesterday so think a run out to Wasaga may be in order to end my week off.
Cheers men.
I went to school on those alternators when they came out. If the bulb burns-out or the diode opens it won't excite.
Possible it is a 'diode trio' inside. It will work, but the light usually lightly glows. Since it is flashing, it is likely funky brushes or commutator.
Does this car have an ammeter? or a voltmeter?
Electrics are always an issue on the old Brits.
Ahmeter Tom, as well as the voltage gage and red light. Sort of excessive electrical awareness, almost like they knew they had issues, hehe. Voltage now sits at 14 easy and ahmeter stays on positive side of 0 while in motion..
Depending on load the ahmeter reacts accordingly, ie floats higher on charge side when lights or fan are on and red light flickers much more when accessories are on. Only goes to discharge side of 0 on ahmeter at idle.
Also notice when cold it doesn’t flicker, but as the car gets up to temp it starts.
Took her on a two hour tour to Alliston and back today. No issues at all!
Mine has an ammeter. That is where all the power (except starter) flows through the shunt in the gauge and off to battery/ignition circuits. Worked ok when we had low-output generators. With alternators, definitely a weak point.
I left all in place and ran a big wire directly from the alternator to the battery anyway.
Ammeter still works, yet a good strong lead to the battery from the alternator strengthens it all up.
Eliminating the ammeter and putting the two wires together and going with a voltmeter from the ignition-on would be best.
Hard to find a Smith's voltmeter. I think a late MGB had them?
Anyway, As you sort it, put a short length of fusible link wire where the car get's it's positive power(except the starter, of course)
Good insurance!;)
Test that Diode. Might be it is on the fritz?
Good call on the fusible link Tom!
Do you know the bore of your vac booster?
eBay link doesn’t specify. I see moss stocks one with a 7/8 bore, which is the same bore as the rear cylinders. Some of the kits online say only a 5/16th bore to their servos.
Figure bigger equals better as it pertains to the brakes and hydraulic displacement.
Might go ahead and order new shoes anyway as I am near the end of my adjustments on these ones despite the appearance of a good 3/8 or more of pad life left on the shoes.
No idea how many times these drums have been resurfaced but they looked good. Should have measured when they were off. Will do that when I rebleed the brakes post booster install.
Thinking I may just drive her to work tomorrow!
Cheers gents.