One thing I have learned, Mike. Don't toss any old parts.
They might come in handy someday.
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One thing I have learned, Mike. Don't toss any old parts.
They might come in handy someday.
Amen. Tosssing lots of newer old stuff to make the space required for this toy and all her accessories required.
Might strip the seat heater pads out of a spare set of vw seats and retrofit them to the MG.
Heated ass would be nice on damp drives. Stripping the old vw stuff as I won’t be doing a lot more on the Corrado going forward. May not actually get the nerve to sell it, but drive her till she don’t anymore sounds like fun..
Street legal and plated!
Spent last night dialing in the carbs and timing until I had her just where I wanted her.
Took her out for a 4 hr tour into Malton to get the cert done and she’s good to go gents,
Attachment 289516
Attachment 289517
Such a great stance and off the line gumption. Who cares if 75 mph is the top of the curve. So much fun getting there.
Here’s to a fun summer of cruising men.
Next big updates will be in the fall for the complete tear down and paint job.
:beer1:
Very cool, Mike. I see the new plate sez 'ceya'!
Hope you have better luck with body/paint shops than I do.
I might just leave it be!
Oh. I suppose you will do all that yourself! ;)
I hope to Tom. If I can find a shop that will let me in.
Need a proper booth for the painting so may see if I can work out a deal with a local shop..
Reasonable rent and some help along the way..
Will look as good as it should once repainted. Very tired looking ATM with a few scars.
:tu
Great job Mike. Glad she runs well. I can see many hours crusin around coming your way!
Commas save lives.
A comma between cruising and men, Mike! :deal:
Congrats, Mike. She'll definitely turn some heads next year after the paint shop. Are you thinking original colors, or something brighter.
I swear my dad restored one of those, but in red, gotta find them pics for ya.
Now ya got ta get ya some driving clothes of those times.
A fresh, vintage str8 shave, dudded up in the proper appearal, and a beautiful fall drive, to the falls.
A nice dinner with the wife, and a couple pints...Ahhhh. :tu
For the want of a comma, har.
Funny slip, as normally my punctuation is better. Ah well.. old age moment, comes with the car I suppose.
Was out for a few hours this aft with the misses. Toured through the Belfountain area and all the windy roads there in..
Handled it beautifully and I had reason to fill up the tank for the second time in my ownership. 91 Octane seemed appropriate and half a bottle of lead substitute for good measure.
Dunno if I’ll ever really “like” the drum brakes compared to modern disks, but she stops when she has to...
There is a disk brake upgrade kit out there if it really gets to me. And I may do it just for good sudden stopping power down the road. Lots of Dicks out there that pull out all sudden like.
Mike, you are right, next I need a few specific fashion accents. A hat for a car like this is a must as there are no visors. Narrow driving shoes with a good firm sole and rounded heel for easier shifting in the cosy foot well. And maybe some driving gloves to keep the bugs out of my knuckles, hehe.
A trip to the falls along the vineyards,, now you are talking my language. Would make for a killer get away with the misses.
Andrew, next time you are visiting the in laws, fire me a text and I’ll come grab you for a tear through the Highlands..
:beer1:
I think that you will do fine with the drum brakes.
It is fun for me to read about someone that not only wants his car to go but be able to stop!:tu
If you put disc brakes on it will the tires have enough traction not to skid?
From my experience "modern" cars are way over braked and then rely on the anti locks to compensate.
No driver input other than mash on the brakes and the computer takes over.
Where is the fun in that?:shrug:
As long as they are in good enough nick to stop without pulling, drum brakes work great. Big foot!
My old brit has front discs, still....
I bought a new remote vacuum booster off the bay to replace my Girling unit which slurped-up the fluid.
In-line from the single master with a vacuum hose attached.
Works a treat! You should do same!
Look ahead and brake accordingly! ;)
Remote vacuum brake booster you say, hmmm. I like the sound of that Tom. Can tuck it out of the way and still increase my pedal power..
I’m going to have to see what’s available. Thanks.
Took her for a rip after ruth went to bed. Noticed the generator light flickering more than before. Or maybe just didn’t see it during the day. Battery gage dropped down to 11 volts and I noticed the right headlight is only half brightness in both low and hi beam. Must have another bad wire maybe.
I totally see me redoing the entire wiring loom next winter just so all of these lil issues will be put to bed for the next 50 years.
Going to put the meter across the posts tomorrow just to make sure the alternator is putting out the right juice.
Cheers..
Lucas....Prince of darkness :mace:
So you have a Delco alternator.
Either it is a stocker with a ignition on wire and a batt to the big lug and batt to one of the side terms.
OR one big wire to the back. Nothing else.
THAT would be a single-wire modded Delco.
You have to bump the throttle a bit to exite them.
God's gift to old cars!
Which do you have?
Not sure beyond delco with a modified housing as per the book. Too dark to play anymore tonight.
Will get back to ya tomorrow.
Found a few vacuum remote kits on eBay. Comes from Australia mate!
But well worth the upgrade, IMO.
Thanks for that tip brudder.
Here is the booster. This one is reasonable. Lots more on Ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Brake-B...IAAOSw7NNT4aRX
Mine....
Attachment 289613
On the alternator...One big wire on the back like this is a 'single wire'.
If two additional are plugged-in from the side, it is a stocker.
Difference is the internal regulator.
Attachment 289614
I got a kick out of that timing knob on your distributor.
Since I have a MSD box, all the advance is done by the box. The advance in the distributor is locked-down and is a magnetic pickup from the 70's.
I took advantage of the old vacuum advance and came-up with my own version of the knob.
It's spring-loaded inside and allows me to time it on a whim by turning the knurled knob....
Attachment 289615
Mine has the additional wiring harness that runs to some weird plastic fuse type thing on the frame. Not a fuse, seems a diode or something in there..?
Attachment 289622
Attachment 289623
Car sits around 12.6-12.9 vdc output and alternator gage shows right around mid point, bounces slightly between charge and discharge. Battery gage shows 12 vdc, but red charging light stays flickering even at 3000rpm.
Starts up everytime and seems to have a strong charge. Wonder if there is a way to increase output voltage slightly? Bigger pulley possibly or an adjustment..
Would like to not have blinking red lights all the time. Idle sure that’s cool, but not at speed.
That is a stock GM 7127 alternator. Big battery wire, one from there to one terminal and the other wire to the other terminal comes from through the dash bulb, through a diode, and to the terminal to excite the alternator. Without the diode, the voltage feeds back and will actually keep the car running as you turn it off.
A better plan is a 1-wire alternator, tape-up the other wire. Ammeter/voltmeter will still work.
Gen lite won't. Either way, sounds like your crusty alternator is on the fritz.
Model 7127 should put out 55 amps at least. More than enough for that car. Voltage should top out at over 14 volts, no load.
Tons of those on ebay too. They have the side terminals, yet you don't use them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-New-Alt...UAAOSwmZFZpYyt
lots have a black plug over the terminals.
My parts house keeps them in-stock..55.00.
You will find them on forklifts, tractors, most anything.
You rev the engine a bit and they start working.
You will have to swap out your pulley.
Looks like a big belt!
Back in 'The Day' my 56 Chevy had the old generator and it was a pain in the arse! Green Giant was converting all of their tractors, combines etc to 12v and were using a Delco one wire alternator in place of the old generators so my father 'acquired' on for my car. I bought the mounting bracket from Chevrolet for a '71 pickup running a small block and then dad machined spacers to align the belt inline with the other pulleys.
Worked Great!!
I can't find the edition but years ago in Auto Restorer they ran an article about a company that was making 6v alternators. They even came with the wide belt pulleys.
They use the same units for 6V, Roy.
It's all in the internal regulator!
What is the big red and black thing strapped to the strut above the alternator, Mike?
Unscrewed the top thinking it was a fuse holder but it has the diode in it I think.
Not really sure what it is, but it is fed from the alternator extra connector. Decided against messing with it. But if I can go single wire off the alternator it may become redundant with the glow light. Going to my local Napa guy tomorrow, see what he has in the way of alternators. Sure chrome would be nice, but if he has a cast painted one in stock I may just grab it.
Looks like I need a new headlight as well. Car has H4s and the right one is only half brightness in both low and hi beam I noticed tonight.
Calling for rain tomorrow sadly so I may have to put her to bed for the weekend.
Humm....Actually, it is a feed TO the internal voltage regulator to start the unit working.
I recall it a 70's resto? Some archaic diode, I assume.
I commonly hide them in the harness.
Smaller stuff these days.
Ya. Lets be rid of that one.
Headlamp grounds may be an issue.
H4's pull way more than the original circuits can handle.
Relays off battery are the way to go., I think.
Fixed mine!
So many things can be topped with relays and stronger circuits. Using the old electrics to trigger new ones.
Esp Lights!
Check some local parts-houses, Mike!
Betcha they will have an old, universal 1 wire?
Yup Roy, I’m going to pull out the meter, but a new set of bulbs wouldn’t hurt to have on hand seeing as how I have no idea how old the current ones are.
Thinking it may be a ground or wiring issue, as I have already had a few smoked wires since I started driving it. Lots of old electrical tape connections are falling off or coming unraveled.
Another reason I want to redo all the electrical with the dash next winter.
Have a lead on a brand new, original style dash face in polished aluminum, with glove box cut out I’m tempted to snag. This wood dash is nice, but old. Cracks and slight gage misalignment let you know it’s a custom. My fussy nature may insist on a return to something more exact.
All the current gages were from the triumph. Original dash and gages are still with the last owner..
Car originally only had 4 small gauges as well as the large tach and speedo. No fuelgage, no clock, just ahmeter, oil, battery, and water. I’m a big fan of the fuel gage though so plan on making all 6 work still. But that’s next winters projects..
:)
I had a Tiger when I was much younger. Harness fried.
Put a 67 Triumph Spitfire harness in .
I suppose you have a TR4 harness in?
I presume so, but not so sure. Sort of a rats nest under the dash tbh. Think going to a tr3 or 4 harness makes sense.
Still haven’t even found the fuses, hehe.
A good body ground is a must! (Big Blue wire!)
Attachment 289645
To the right are relays to hit the headlights with straight batt power.
Powers the halogens much better.
Did that relay upgrade on my corrado as the lighting was crap stock. May do this one as well.
Found I have only 9 vdc on low and hi beam circuits on right headlight at the bulb. Seemingly a solid ground at the lamps so the problem is probably down the harness somewhere. Neat cloth woven wiring in the headlight buckets.
Went to tackle the alternator and figured remove the pulley while still under tension only to realize I have had some belt stretch..
So I retightened the alternator belt and saved 100$. Alternator puts out all kind of volts now and sits firmly at 14 vdc on the gage. Alt light blinks at idle, and randomly and sporadically at speed once more.
Check the basics first men!
:tu
And the money I saved on an alternator went to new shoes.
Attachment 289660
Check out the extra material on the outside of the right shoe for tunnel rub.
And the rolled heel, feels very fluid for shifting and foot repositioning.
Attachment 289661
Nice, skinny, and stubby, with a firm sole, just what I wanted..my feet look so little in them. Hehe.
Cheers!
Cool! Have not worried about a slipping belt for years, Mike!
Serpentine belts slipping, they let you know. Seems those big, fat old v-belts will slip easy.
Good work!
Also, never thought about driving shoes, but HEY! That's why they make them! :rock:
The best ones in my arsenal were a pair of converse skater shoes, but they were a little wide when I was on the clutch and brake.
These are narrower and feel easier as they rub together, don’t catch on each other kinda thing.
Built specifically for driving a standard transmission car and claim better peddle feel. Early reports say it’s easier on the bottom of the right foot while braking. Everything else, sure slight improvements..
Going to order that vac boost upgrade sooner than later I think. Really like that idea..
:tu
Did you order the shoes online?
My car has a fairly stiff clutch pedal. Perhaps the ergonomics of some driving shoes would help the lower leg cramps! ;)
Sport chek at a city mall. Available online too but I wanted to try them on.
The mfgr says to order a half size larger than your normal shoe due to the snug design. They were right, in my case. I went with the 11. Fits tight but not too tight.
The pad of my right foot was getting sore from all the hard braking. That was the biggest reason I wanted something specific, if they made it. Go figure, the Italians did, hehe.
Called Piloti Prototipo GT’s. Cost $170 CDN so less 30% for the mighty green back.
Should last a lifetime. And certainly a comfy shoe in the car..so far..
Ruthy took a little vid while we drove tonight.
Cheers.
https://youtu.be/i6llTQwBa4w