Any Archers out there??

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Originally Posted by animalwithin

I've got a lot to catch up on. I'm looking at the Easton X7 Eclipse 2214 Shafts at 10.4 grains and 28" with a 125 grain field point (target arrows only for now). I've got a 60# bow, does that add up? Will fletching mess with arrow weight or its just for air dynamics?

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Yes that adds up but I would think about using a 100gr field point instead. You'll still be well within minimums set by the IBO. So long as you keep your arrows no lighter than 360gr for your bows maximum 60lb you will be good to go with that shaft and point choice, even with fletching and nock points factored in. Your total arrow weight is around 416.20 gr with that setup.
I'm also assuming you don't use release aids or anything.

I would also recommend getting your arrows professionally fitted first time around, as any advice here is going to be limited by the information, both given and not given. It's also been sometime since I've used my own gear so my advice is there to stand corrected if need be. Ideas and improvements may have been made since last I had to set up a bow. :)


Mick

Never thought this would turn into an archery forum but hey im all in :beer1:

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Originally Posted by jdoc

Never thought this would turn into an archery forum but hey im all in :beer1:

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Awesome bow! I'm not a compound guy but i wa drooling over the all black carbon element myself.

What do you think of hoyts offerings this year?

Awesome bow!

Also an archer here, bowhunting mainly. Fellow Hoyt man

Maxxis 35 (black edition) Dangerous Game edition
94pound and 31inch draw length.

Current arrow setup is 800gr, which includes a 170gr broadhead and 5inch feathers at the back.

speed currently is 260fps (KE in excess of 120ft/lb). Great bow to shoot, love it.

Have hunted several animals with it!

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Originally Posted by MickR

Yes that adds up but I would think about using a 100gr field point instead. You'll still be well within minimums set by the IBO. So long as you keep your arrows no lighter than 360gr for your bows maximum 60lb you will be good to go with that shaft and point choice, even with fletching and nock points factored in. Your total arrow weight is around 416.20 gr with that setup.
I'm also assuming you don't use release aids or anything.

I would also recommend getting your arrows professionally fitted first time around, as any advice here is going to be limited by the information, both given and not given. It's also been sometime since I've used my own gear so my advice is there to stand corrected if need be. Ideas and improvements may have been made since last I had to set up a bow. :)


Mick

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You're the best Mick, thanks so much! Yea I think its best to get my arrows professionally fitted for the first time indeed, so much to factor in, FOC, KE and all that.

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Originally Posted by animalwithin

I've got a lot to catch up on. I'm looking at the Easton X7 Eclipse 2214 Shafts at 10.4 grains and 28" with a 125 grain field point (target arrows only for now). I've got a 60# bow, does that add up? Will fletching mess with arrow weight or its just for air dynamics?

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Maybe this will help.

| Easton Archery

Hi animalwithin.
Ask away, we have all been at that learning (and still are).

I know that I have done the FOC, KE and MOM to death on my setups. If you hunt, FOC of 12-15% is good. Target archery, 5-10% is good. Then you also get extreme FOC, where it is like 30-40% (then it gets very interesting to shoot, as this affects your dynamic and static spine of the arrow etc.

Good luck, I am sure there are a lot of archers around here that will love to help!

Thanks SVMAD! I have heard that an FOC of greater than 10 is ideal, that doesn't help much haha. Does that mean 10%+ of the arrow's total weight lies in the broadhead? At the moment I'm shooting a 60 lb Hoyt recurve and definitely want to set up my own arrows but there is so much out there. I have a 28" draw length so I'm assuiming 29" shafts would be ideal, target only for now. I want to use a 125 gr fieldpoint but I know there is much controversy between 100/125. And I'm not sure if 29" is best or perhaps 28".

I was looking at aluminum Easton shafts, was going to fletch them with 5" feathers, Easton knocks.

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Originally Posted by animalwithin

Thanks SVMAD! I have heard that an FOC of greater than 10 is ideal, that doesn't help much haha. Does that mean 10%+ of the arrow's total weight lies in the broadhead? At the moment I'm shooting a 60 lb Hoyt recurve and definitely want to set up my own arrows but there is so much out there. I have a 28" draw length so I'm assuiming 29" shafts would be ideal, target only for now. I want to use a 125 gr fieldpoint but I know there is much controversy between 100/125. And I'm not sure if 29" is best or perhaps 28".

I was looking at aluminum Easton shafts, was going to fletch them with 5" feathers, Easton knocks.

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Don't assume..... Here is another chart from easton. Selection Charts | Easton Archery

Don't have a preconceived notion about length and tip weight.

If I am not sure cut them long, you can always shorten them!;)

Yea I've checked out both those charts, I guess I need someone to measure the arrow length while I'm at draw to get an exact measurement.

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Originally Posted by animalwithin

Yea I've checked out both those charts, I guess I need someone to measure the arrow length while I'm at draw to get an exact measurement.

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Couldn't you use a piece of string, from the bow to the end of the arrow, or use a marker pen against the bow and draw an arrow along it.
I am not an archer though so I am just guessing

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Originally Posted by edhewitt

Couldn't you use a piece of string, from the bow to the end of the arrow, or use a marker pen against the bow and draw an arrow along it.
I am not an archer though so I am just guessing

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The standard [for me anyway] is to have an arrow with markings on it and have someone look at it as you draw.

You could use a mirror.

I know a guy that shot a mirror checking his form!:rofl2:

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Originally Posted by 32t

The standard [for me anyway] is to have an arrow with markings on it and have someone look at it as you draw.

You could use a mirror.

I know a guy that shot a mirror checking his form!:rofl2:

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I did think of an arrow with markings, but it just seemed too straight forward, so I thought "how can I make this more complicated"

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Originally Posted by edhewitt

I did think of an arrow with markings, but it just seemed too straight forward, so I thought "how can I make this more complicated"

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I was having issues with a problem at work today. I asked a coworker for a different point of view. We still were stuck. I took a break and when I came back it was right in front of my face. :gaah: :rofl2:

To keep this on track many of the things that are being mentioned here are technical. especially if you are new to the sport none of this is going to make any difference.

The first 90% is "easy" Then you get into the last 10%.

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Originally Posted by 32t

The first 90% is "easy" Then you get into the last 10%.

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Isn't that where the "stick" breaks ? :)

^There are some stories out there of people shooting with arrows at incorrect lengths and the shaft splinters/shatters.

I do have some arrows that I recall were longer than the others, If I mark it with inches and measure an inch past the rest when I fully draw it, there's my correct arrow length.

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Originally Posted by animalwithin

^There are some stories out there of people shooting with arrows at incorrect lengths and the shaft splinters/shatters.

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I was referring, jokingly, to the old saying " a drawn bow is a stick 9/10 broken "

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Originally Posted by onimaru55

I was referring, jokingly, to the old saying " a drawn bow is a stick 9/10 broken "

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This is an old and on running thread! But when I saw that my mate Oz said in I believe post # 36:

Hmmm... This thread is sadly lacking in pictures

I thought;

hmmmmm

I guess that no one told these archers about any of what's been said in this tread!!!

Well at least not lately!! :shrug:

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Originally Posted by animalwithin

Yea I've checked out both those charts, I guess I need someone to measure the arrow length while I'm at draw to get an exact measurement.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 32t

The standard [for me anyway] is to have an arrow with markings on it and have someone look at it as you draw.

You could use a mirror.

I know a guy that shot a mirror checking his form!:rofl2:

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by animalwithin

^There are some stories out there of people shooting with arrows at incorrect lengths and the shaft splinters/shatters.

I do have some arrows that I recall were longer than the others, If I mark it with inches and measure an inch past the rest when I fully draw it, there's my correct arrow length.

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Yep. Just put a nock on an uncut shaft and make a line around the shaft from the 27" distance from the nock, mark a few more past that and you should be able to see at what point your arrow 'tip' is on the rest (make sure you draw using correct form and posture as you would normally do). For target points you'll want the tip slightly forward of, or safely on the rest. Hunting arrows as I said earlier you want sitting further forward (about an inch or so).


Mick

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Originally Posted by animalwithin

Thanks SVMAD! I have heard that an FOC of greater than 10 is ideal, that doesn't help much haha. Does that mean 10%+ of the arrow's total weight lies in the broadhead? At the moment I'm shooting a 60 lb Hoyt recurve and definitely want to set up my own arrows but there is so much out there. I have a 28" draw length so I'm assuiming 29" shafts would be ideal, target only for now. I want to use a 125 gr fieldpoint but I know there is much controversy between 100/125. And I'm not sure if 29" is best or perhaps 28".

I was looking at aluminum Easton shafts, was going to fletch them with 5" feathers, Easton knocks.

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I would keep them at 29inches, and if you feel later that you want to go to 28.5 or 28 inches, you can experiment. 5 Inch feathers are the best, especially in recurve, where it will stabilize your arrow the quickest.

FOC refers to the middlepoint of the weight of your arrow. Remember, if you have an 28inch arrow, the middlepoint would be 14inches (middlepoint of arrow). However, FOC refers to the percentage that the weight point of the arrow is from the middlepoint of the arrow. Thus, if you have a 28 inch arrow with a 14inch middlepoint and a 10% FOC, this would mean that the balancing point of your arrow would be 10% (or 2.8inches) towards the fieldpoint or BH. Remeber, that the higher your FOC, the more leverage it gives the feathers to steer your arrow. Thus the more FOC, the easier feathers would correct your arrows flight path and stabilize your arrow. Please let me know if this makes sense.
Thanks

Thanks for the details SVMAD. It does make sense, so to increase FOC, simply increase frieldpoint/BH grain weight correct? I know eventually a dramatic increase in fieldpoint/BH weight will cause a curvature in the arrow's flight path and one has to aim a few inches higher to compensate for the downward trajectory.

My cousin in N E PA sent this photo he took from his tree stand Saturday. 5 Black Bears.

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Ahh I missed the delivery guy by not even a minute today.

The truck was pulling away as I turned down my street.

It's ok first thing in the morning I'll go pick up my new limbs and sight!

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Originally Posted by animalwithin

Thanks for the details SVMAD. It does make sense, so to increase FOC, simply increase frieldpoint/BH grain weight correct? I know eventually a dramatic increase in fieldpoint/BH weight will cause a curvature in the arrow's flight path and one has to aim a few inches higher to compensate for the downward trajectory.

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Correct. The best way to increase FOC is make the BH/FP heavier. You can (if you had plastic vanes on) switch from plastic to feathers (since feathers ar far lighter than plastic), so you lessen the weight at the back.

Increased FOC also aids in penetration when hunting.

Just be mindful that if you increase your BH/FP weight, you have to take into account the static (and especially) the dynamic spine of the arrow. Doesnt help much if you increase your BH weight, and the moment you release the string, the arrow breaks up. Remeber that this is because the string is pushing the back of the arrow, while the point is still inert. That means the initial force has to go somewhere, and this is usually sideways. If your arrow spine is not strong enough, you will sit with arrow splinters in your hand.

throw your specs of bow pounds, draw lenght etc on here, so we can help you make a good decision.

Went early this morning to the post office to pick up my new toys. Spent some time setting up limb alignment and did a rough brace and tiller adjustment.

Now if only I could shoot this bad boy so I could set up the sight.

I am every happy with the new items. The limbs are very smooth when drawn.

Limbs are Hoyt F7 limbs rated 34 pounds. I wound the bolts out so they are closer to around 30 now so I can get used to the extra weight.

Sight is a sure loc quest-x

Here are some crappy cell phone pics lol.

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Very nice basil!!! I'm curious does it shoot a little heavier than its rated? I've heard of a few people saying Hoyts tend to shoot a little heavier than their actual rated poundage.

SVMAD, I'm shooting a 60lb. recurve with a 28" draw length. Was thinking of 5" feathers, 29" aluminum easton shafts, and a 125 gr field point. For now I"m strictly target shooting.

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Originally Posted by animalwithin

Very nice basil!!! I'm curious does it shoot a little heavier than its rated? I've heard of a few people saying Hoyts tend to shoot a little heavier than their actual rated poundage.

SVMAD, I'm shooting a 60lb. recurve with a 28" draw length. Was thinking of 5" feathers, 29" aluminum easton shafts, and a 125 gr field point. For now I"m strictly target shooting.

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Awesome Basil, cant go wrong with Hoyt. I just a 60lb recurve to strengthen my back muscles, would pull it to full draw and hold it there for a minute and let down. Best workout, so that when I shot my 94pound Hoyt compound, I could hold and let down quite easily.

animalwithin, I think your setup would be good. however, if you are target shooting, why such heavy poundage on a recurve?

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Originally Posted by animalwithin

Very nice basil!!! I'm curious does it shoot a little heavier than its rated? I've heard of a few people saying Hoyts tend to shoot a little heavier than their actual rated poundage.

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I don't have a scale to check the poundage. I have the Limb bolts all the way out so it should be lighter than what they are actually rated at. That being said I can feel quite the difference between my old limbs and these, I would guess somewhere around #30. If i wound the bolts down i wouldn't be surprised if the poundage was near #38-40

I definitely want to get into hunting later on. I have a 40# old recurve as well, I just wanted something with more oomph, and since my new one is a takedown, its much easier to transport.

I think more people need to take pics of their set ups lol.

Spent some time last night playing with the new rig. Was shooting only about 10 ft but it was still good for doing some more adjustments.

Very smooth limbs and fast too. Launch arrows with authority! I will have to change my arrows i think because i am a bit under spine it seems. I will play around with arrow length and plunger and that should get it to work for now.

Will see if I can get a photo of my setup this weekend.

Do you guys know if I order shafts online and have them cut from them, will they be threaded/slotted for knocks and broadheads or is that something I have to get done on my own?

i think 3 rivers archery will do that for you. Shoot them an email to doug;e check though

For aluminium arrows it is a hot melt stick and if they don't do it it is easy to do yourself. It is cheap and order a stick with your arrows. Even if you get them glued in they come loose once in a while. Carbon arrows are super glued.

So i moved back to Vancouver island last March and I've been craving a new hobby, i was browsing the Net one afternoon and came across an interesting youtube user named Backyard bowyer, i start looking into his videos and apparently he's been making longbows and recurves out of sch 40 PVC plumbing pipe. I've always found archery interesting but I've never really had the disposable income to invest in the proper equipment, so i figured what the hell, so i whipped up a simple recurve with a 5ft length of pipe and a heat gun that was laying around the house, he has excellent how to videos to make everything you would need from press boards to a vary useful jig to make the bow string, the start up cost is a bit more then the cost of the bow, buying the string martial, arrows and serving tool and such but i think its a fun little hobby and i thought i'd share

Hey that does look like a fun project. Thanks for sharing. You know what else you might like ? A blow gun. Super easy, deadly accurate.

Awesome stuff. How does it shoot? What would the draw weight be on that bow?

Attachment 149295It's draws about 45 lbs at 28 inches, it shoots pretty straight but this being the only thing I've ever shot I have nothing to base it on, i need to go get some hay bales to shoot at or something my back fence has a few marks. I sprayed it and did a simple jute wrap

Just thought I'd share the new fingertab I got.

The one on the left is my old tab. The new tab is the same design but made out of brass so it's much heavier. I wanted a heavier tab but didn't want to change tab designs and this worked out perfectly.

What brand are those? I haven't seen them before. But that doesn't mean much!

I like the feel of brass releases. The only negative is that they discolor quickly with the salt and oil from my hands.