Thread: Pipe Repair Question: Loose Mortise Insert

I have a 1950s/60s Kaywoodie brier pipe that has the threaded female mortise insert loose. When I attempt to unscrew the stem from the bowl, the metal insert will try to unscrew from the bowl instead of the stem unscrewing from the insert--if you follow me. Would someone knowledgeable with pipe repair please recommend the proper glue to use on the female insert to secure it in the mortise, or were these inserts not glued from the factory? I don't think wood glue will adhere to the metal insert, and I'm cautious of using an epoxy because of the chemicals involved that could potentially mix with the smoke. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

In the event anyone else has problems with a loose mortise insert similar to this Kaywoodie, I repaired the issue. The pipe was an estate find and quite filthy, so after a very good brush and alcohol cleaning, I found that the mortise has threads cut into the wood, and the mortise insert has male threads that match (so envision the insert as a bolt and the mortise as a nut). These threads were so packed with tar that I thought the pieces weren't threaded but smooth.

After cleaning, I simply threaded the insert into the mortise using no glue, as the fit was very tight like a pipe plug. It got to the point where the insert would not fully thread in with finger pressure, so I cut a piece of 3/8" automotive fuel hose in two, wrapped the jaws of channellock pliers with the hose halves, and then tightened the insert all the way in. After all was said and done, I used a retort to do a final cleaning of the pipe and had no leak issues around the insert-to-wood or stem-to-insert joints.

Good! No goop, back to "as-built" condition.

I'd remove the stem by twisting in the direction that _tightens_ the metal insert - - probably clockwise.

I would also have used epoxy (if it were necessary). Uncured epoxy is rather nasty. But _cured_ epoxy is pretty well inert. Of course, if you used epoxy, the metal insert would be un-removable.

Charles

I've got a few old push tenon kaywoodies and I like them a lot. I have had some with the plumbing but just never could get used to that. Lining up the threads to where the lip of the stem is at the right position when the stem is tight is also a consideration. I've run into some old ones that had worn threads and the stem tightened past the correct point.

Just an idea. (just used this with a Vaccuum Coffee Maker to correct a harden gasket. Another's recommendation). Instead of Epoxy, try the Teflon tape that's used in plumbing. Easy to use, trim to fit, removable. What do you think? I've been using it for more and more things. Latest to replace a lost pool filter gasket.

Originally Posted by cpcohen1945

I'd remove the stem by twisting in the direction that _tightens_ the metal insert - - probably clockwise.

Good point for push-on stems. This particular Kaywoodie has a thread-on stem, so I've no option but to go counterclockwise for removal. Kaywoodie would have been wise to make the male mortis insert threads left-hand so that when you do unscrew the stem the force moves to further tighten the mortise. It's also good to know someone has used epoxy with good results.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

I've run into some old ones that had worn threads and the stem tightened past the correct point.

I have the same problem with a 1960's thread-on Dr. Grabow. If I had a TIG welder, I might try adding some aluminum to the very last thread to widen it and then reshape the thread. I'm not quite sure what I'll do to correct the situation--maybe peen over some threads to widen them if I can find a metal rod the same size as the interior passage to keep the tenon from warping or collapsing.

Originally Posted by Johnus

Instead of Epoxy, try the Teflon tape that's used in plumbing.

I've heard this used by many on push-on tenon that are loose. It turns out that the threads I was dealing with were very tight after cleaned up, so Teflon tape would have been too thick. For anyone with a looser fit, that might also be the ticket.

Originally Posted by Annixter

It's also good to know someone has used epoxy with good results.

Epoxy worked well for me with an Ashton that I dropped on a tile floor. Broke in half a little ways behind the bowl at the shank. I was really bummed because it was an old favorite that I bought new 20 years ago.

I had heard that once the wood was broken like that it was toast. I thought about musical instruments that are glued and I whipped up some epoxy and glued it and it held. I had to go in with a drill bit, by hand, afterwards to clean it up, but it is smoking just fine.