My first 3 Razors WIP

Hello,

I have made some progress on my first three razors, one will be my interpretation of a kamisori or a fixed blade / one piece razor. Please keep in mind that this is the first time I have ever ground a hollow grind, apart from one prototype that I made in aluminium. I'd like to show you some pics so far, since I do have a few questions:p

This is the aluminium prototype that I made, please note that I did zero finishing work on it and everything is very rough and crude!
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdb6b0570.jpg
The holes were mainly for decoration but also a way to lighten the blade and get the balance I wanted.
Here are the razors so far, they are made from 6 mm (0.236 inches) SS 2140.
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa00111a1.jpg
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps24270cb9.jpg
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps260fab5f.jpg
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps8b611f1a.jpg
I might change some details on the razors once I have cut them out, so the current blade profile is just to give me an initial shape, If I don't like something I will change it as I go.

I plan to grind the hollow as deep as possible on the kamisori, and I think I might have to taper the tang to get a decent balance.. I'm wondering how far I should take the taper? Past the plunges? And how much can I grind before I send it out to HT? Currently there is about 1,5 mm (1/16 ") at the edge, but as you can see in the third picture I could work the hollow further up by grinding behind the edge.

I have also been trying to find out how you go about tapering the tang on a "normal" straight razor, how far do you taper? Past the plunges on them as well? It's not the tapering process itself that I have questions about, I already know how to taper the tang on a fixed blade:p

Kind regards
Max

Looking good I like your prototype pity it's only Ali good idea but
Sorry I can't help with the rest although I have read several times that about an 1/8" is the thinnest you want to go on the edge before the heat treating to avoid warping with O1 not sure on the SS2140

The tape should run past the shoulders, 1/4" into the blade.
That will be necessary for maintaining a good contact between the spine and the hone.

Hm...Would not taking the taper past the pivot interfere with the washers? I will drill the pivot hole before doing the taper, but in my mind, placing washers on a tapered surface would cause problems? My old razor does not have any washers but I can see that the taper runs about 1/4" past the plunges....I am most likely wrong, but since I have not done a razor before I felt that I should ask before I start tapering?

Thank you for your time!
Kind regards
Max

Take Bruno's advice - otherwise you'll regret it when it comes to honing. The shoulders on your mock up will hit the side of the hone.

regarding the washers, remember that the scales will also flex meaning that the washers will be flush against both tang and inside scale.

While I am waiting for my razors to return from heat treatment I set up some improvised water cooling, I used a fermentation barrel that me and some friends used to brew some beer !http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdc2151bc.jpg

Now I have to go and buy a waterproof apron:D
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf846c265.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sompla

Hm...Would not taking the taper past the pivot interfere with the washers? I will drill the pivot hole before doing the taper, but in my mind, placing washers on a tapered surface would cause problems? My old razor does not have any washers but I can see that the taper runs about 1/4" past the plunges....I am most likely wrong, but since I have not done a razor before I felt that I should ask before I start tapering?

Thank you for your time!
Kind regards
Max

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No, the tang should be tapered past the shoulder and this will not interfere with the washers.
The end spacer should also be wedge shaped so that the scales are open.when you pin the razor, you have to 'wrap' the scales around the razor. That way you also create mote space for the shoulders. You don't want the scales to be in parallel.

I did take the taper past the plunges, and I did know that the backspacer should be tapered:D I had no intention of ignoring your advice, I was simply curious, thank you all foryour advice!:D

The razors came back from heat treatment today, hopefully they will be done in a few weeks!
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf5306de6.jpg
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps0671da66.jpg
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...psc86a3bb6.jpg
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf722e4b3.jpg

I have a question about jimps, not specifically these ones but just jimps in general. I presume they are cut with a file that has the teeth in alignment. When the razor is finish the jumps are nice and polished through out. Looking at the after heat treat pictures it leaves me wondering if those same files are used to clean out and polish the jimps to leave them pristine or is there another process for that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RezDog

I have a question about jimps, not specifically these ones but just jimps in general. I presume they are cut with a file that has the teeth in alignment. When the razor is finish the jumps are nice and polished through out. Looking at the after heat treat pictures it leaves me wondering if those same files are used to clean out and polish the jimps to leave them pristine or is there another process for that.

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This is my first time using such a file, and I assume that I will use the file to remove most of the scale and then resort to small files with sandpaper wrapped around them or something like that, in order to polish between the checkering.
If anyone else uses a checkering file like I did, please let me know how you clean and polish after heat treatment:p

yep - you are on the right track. i use the file again as it is removing scale, not hardened steel. Then some wet dry paper, sometimes wrapped around a triangular file to get in the grooves. Then a sisal wheel on the buffer with cutting compound, followed by soft wheel with polish. Then get an old toothbrush and some rubbing alcohol and scrub out the jimps to get all the compound out. i do this after the cutting compound, then again after the polish. i do this [I]before[I] i start the final hollow grind and thin the blade down. Much safer.
Also - this is only on the jimping. The sides of the tang {on folding razors} i do not want to risk rounding, so it on the sides is all done by hand with wet dry paper on a flat rubbing stick.
When all is nearly finished, i clean again with alcohol and work a couple of coats of ren wax into the jimping, pivot hole and all around the tang to give some protection from rust.
Looking good with your work there.
Regards.
Adam

Be very careful if you're using a file against/near steel hardened to 60+Rc. You will roll the file teeth in an instant otherwise. That is approaching the hardness of the file if not equal. I've seen many a file ruined that way during my machining career.

Sisal wheel & buffers do fine for me

Ditto. I've ruined more than one file on 'too hard' steel.
My good files only touch annealed steel anymore. that way they'll be happier :)

I've done some post HT grind, and up to this point I have been grinding with 60 grit belts, now I will be doing the last grinding with 120 grit, then establishing the bevel and tune the final grinds as I move up through the grits.:p

(In the first picture only two of the razors had been ground, as you can see) The edges are about 0.30 mm thick.
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps516c5dbf.jpg
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...psfb6544aa.jpg
http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf071ee85.jpg
Thank you for all your help so far! I am having alot of fun with these!
Kind regards
Max

Great thread, thank you for keeping us posted.
The Q&A and comments have also been very helpful in understanding the process.
Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Having fun and doing a great job :<0) I am watching your progress because I too am having some fun on my own. Thanks for sharing.