Grinding to a measured dimension before bevel set is meaningless IMO, without knowing the contact wheel size and the blade angle relative to tangent on that wheel.
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Grinding to a measured dimension before bevel set is meaningless IMO, without knowing the contact wheel size and the blade angle relative to tangent on that wheel.
How do you do your final grinds on your razors, after heat treat, bluesman7?
I do a bevel just short of joining with a slow moving flat belt and a taped spine. Then reduce the bevel width with a 4" contact wheel. This is on an 8/8 razor so the 4" wheel is only taking material from about 1/3 of the blade width. Spazola saw my razors at the Denver meet.
Edit; I suppose I should add that the blade center line is at 0 degrees to tangent and the bevel is at the tangent point on the 4" wheel
Like some others I set the bevel then finish the grind
None of my comments are meant in a derogatory manner, I just haven't seen any of your work & have seen the work of Bruno, spazola, Tim Zowada, and MileMarker60. They have all seen some my work here on the forum & one I have had the pleasure of spending a day in their shop. We are all craftsmen & sharing "how I do it"'s is simply a way to better our craft an personal skills. I have never had any formal bladesmith training, just the school of hard knocks. I don't have much time in the shop & forge, so I consider my time at the grinder and anvil special & I want this to show in my blades in form and function.
Edit/add: It's all about making a tool that performs as well or better than it looks for me.
Thanks shooter, I just wanted to be clear about what I was, and wasn't, saying. Here are the two razors I have done.Attachment 175370Attachment 175371