A question I have about quenching blades is, since water boils at 100C or so, and oils at 400-500C along with most waxes, when the steel, above critical temperature comes in contact with the quenching media, ("special quenchant", oil or water), that blade doesn't come in contact with the liquid but with it's vapor, not any liquid since that media is boiling at a lower temperature.
So, for that temperature range, between say 800 degrees C, and 400-500 degrees C, the heat transfer is a lot slower than below that temperature.
I've been searching for organic materials that don't boil at temperatures below 800C, but nothing that can be found easily seems to appear, and it makes sense.
On the other hand, there are some metal alloys (like Wood's alloy/"metal" and many other combinations) that are liquid at water's boiling temperature, boil at a higher temperature as well as not releasing fumes at critical temperatures for steels.
So, I've been thinking, has anyone used such an alloy for quenching, and if done correctly (for example, a big pot of water that boils, with a smaller in it that contains that alloy, in which you dip the piece of steel; the bigger the surface of the pot containing the alloy that comes in contact with the water, the faster the cooling rate, same with the volume of liquid alloy, and, metals are great heat conductors by their nature, so, it sounds excellent. Too good maybe to be working?) what happens to the steel, hardness and rate of unsuccessful attempts?

Has anyone tried it? I'm not referring to reaching hardening temperature using an alloy, nor tempering again, using some liquid alloy, the question is about quenching hot steel on low melting temperature alloys.

Overall, I expect, the quenched piece of steel will reach a temperature around 100C/212F faster than it would with any other media used. Also, because of specific gravity, a lot of pounds/kilos will be needed, and they are expensive, but again, liquids specifically for quenching are expensive too. (of course we are careful with the fumes anyway, as well as splashing etc etc)
If the metals were cheaper I wouldn't even ask and try it, but buying 20kg of them and being careful with lead/Thallium/Cadmium/Mercury is kind of important.
So I would appreciate your help on the question, as I imagine we could achieve higher hardness that way with the faster cooling rate and possibly obtain the bainite crystalline structure more easily. Or it would end up being a failure.
I've been searching on google for days and I didn't find anything serious.

Thank you for your time.